Diesel tech in an eco world

Diesel tech in an eco world

This is a discussion on Diesel tech in an eco world within the Introductions forums, part of the Ford F150 Ecoboost category; How's it going guys! Thanks for viewing this. Here it goes I'm a certified detroit diesel tech basically building frightliners. I did a lot of ...

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    Rookie usnavyad's Avatar

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    Diesel tech in an eco world

    How's it going guys! Thanks for viewing this. Here it goes I'm a certified detroit diesel tech basically building frightliners. I did a lot of diesel work on side and got real big on fourms with powerstroke well on sat I took my wife's 1.8l ecoboost escape in for service and seen a 2013 f150 3.5l xlt 4x4 with 22k on the ticker. Needless to say I traded in my harley davidson powerstroke and bought another ecoboost. I joined this site to try and find out what to look for on this engine I haven't touched a gas engine in years but I am a diesel tech so I know my way around a truck lol. So what's the good bad and ugly on these 3.5ls what oil is good? I see the filter is on the oil cooler is delta range a concern? Fuel filters?

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    Eco-Beast agentjohnson's Avatar

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    AFAIK We have not seen any issues with oil cooling, nor with fuel filters. The biggest issue seems to be valve coking from oil blowby, condensation causing hydro lock, and detonation. Detonation is not common, but is failry catastrophic for these engines. Timing chains seem to be stretching, the trend seems to be longer (oem suggested) OCI's using semi synthetic oils can exacerbate it. All and all the better you maintain the vehicle the better it will treat you. I may be forgetting somethings, or may be a bit off, but there are several here who are quite a bit more knowledgeable than I.
    peon

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    Rookie usnavyad's Avatar

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    Valve coming from blow by???? How lol is the crank becoming over pressurized?? Or get past the rings? I heard about the cac condensation wasn't that remedied

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    Eco-Beast Vozaday's Avatar

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    Basically the PVC system skips a little oil vapours past and goes into the intake. Since the Eco is direct injection there is no fuel to wash off the valves. That oil vapour will bake on the valves over time. It is a direct injection problem.

    The condensation issue has been greatly reduced, but not completely solved. Aftermarket options to help even more are a catch can (to catch the water vapour from the drivers side valve cover) or drilling a weep hole in the IC.

    The number one problem by far are the spark plugs. The Eco eats plugs like candy. If stock I would expect to change it every 30-40,000 miles. If tuned I would then gap the plugs to .028 to start and replace every 10-20,000 miles.

    I would recommend synthetic oil changed at 5-7,000 miles. It seems to have helped several members with the timing chain noise. Changing oil a little more frequently also helps with fuel dilution due to blow by through the rings. The trucks run very rich on startup, plus almost every FI engine I have had has fuel dilution from blowby.

    The Good:

    These engines are awesome. The problems are not that huge and most have been for the most part figured out.

    These engines make diesel like gains with a tune. Not quite as much but 100wtq is not an uncommon gain.

    Lots of cool development going on right now, aftermarket turbos, fuel upgrades to be released soon.

    Have fun and hope you enjoy the truck.
    Last edited by Vozaday; 04-28-2015 at 12:20 AM.
    agentjohnson likes this.
    2013 F150 FX4 Appearance Loaded Eco. w/Max Tow. Level lift with 305/55r20 Open Country ATII Extremes. Rear Raptor Shocks. 5 Star Tuned/X4. Wagner Intercooler. AFE Stage 2 Intake. RX Catch Can/UPR CSS. Boost-Bars Raptoid Grille. 30" Hanning LED Bar. Rigid Backup Lights. JW Speaker Fogs. GlowShift Boost Gauge. Remote Access.

    1971 Mustang Grande 351C

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    Rookie usnavyad's Avatar

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    Wow really the plugs are that bad what's failing on the plugs? Is warranty covering them

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    Eco-Beast Vozaday's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by usnavyad View Post
    Wow really the plugs are that bad what's failing on the plugs? Is warranty covering them
    The gaps widen over time, so no Ford doesn't cover them. And it usually isn't the best idea to regap a used plug IMO, so I just replace them. They are really cheap online and extremely easy to change on our trucks. 30 min tops.
    agentjohnson likes this.
    2013 F150 FX4 Appearance Loaded Eco. w/Max Tow. Level lift with 305/55r20 Open Country ATII Extremes. Rear Raptor Shocks. 5 Star Tuned/X4. Wagner Intercooler. AFE Stage 2 Intake. RX Catch Can/UPR CSS. Boost-Bars Raptoid Grille. 30" Hanning LED Bar. Rigid Backup Lights. JW Speaker Fogs. GlowShift Boost Gauge. Remote Access.

    1971 Mustang Grande 351C

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    Rookie usnavyad's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vozaday View Post
    The gaps widen over time, so no Ford doesn't cover them. And it usually isn't the best idea to regap a used plug IMO, so I just replace them. They are really cheap online and extremely easy to change on our trucks. 30 min tops.

    What are the plugs costing

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    Eco-Beast Vozaday's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by usnavyad View Post
    What are the plugs costing
    I have heard of $4.99 per plug online

    But I'm Canadian so it is about $10/plug for me. Lol
    2013 F150 FX4 Appearance Loaded Eco. w/Max Tow. Level lift with 305/55r20 Open Country ATII Extremes. Rear Raptor Shocks. 5 Star Tuned/X4. Wagner Intercooler. AFE Stage 2 Intake. RX Catch Can/UPR CSS. Boost-Bars Raptoid Grille. 30" Hanning LED Bar. Rigid Backup Lights. JW Speaker Fogs. GlowShift Boost Gauge. Remote Access.

    1971 Mustang Grande 351C

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    Eco-Beast agentjohnson's Avatar

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    I did all six of mine for $25 IIRC
    peon

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    Voz and AJ pretty much covered it all, I would just say change your oil frequently (around 5k miles) with a quality full synthetic, use the Motorcraft FL-500S oil filters. Also I would put some new plugs in now just for good measure, gap @ .030, or tighter if you are going to tune. Use only the SP-534's.

    I'd say the jury is still out on the carbon buildup on the valves being a major issue or not. A catch can may or may not help mitigate this issue.

    Also you might want to inspect your CAC (intercooler) for condensation and/or oil buildup. If it's bad enough you may want to consider a catch can or drilling a weep hole in your CAC, or even get an aftermarket CAC. Take a look at some of the threads here covering this. Lots of great info here on the forum.
    2012 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 4x4, 3.31 Rear, 5.5 Box, Ingot Silver Metallic
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    -DeeZee Tailgate Assist, Husky Liners, Raptor Tans Mount, Silverstar Ultra Bulbs,
    F150Ecoboost.net Decal

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