Coolant operating temperature

Coolant operating temperature

This is a discussion on Coolant operating temperature within the F150 Ecoboost Problems forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; Truck is a 2011 F150 Platinum Ecoboost 4x4 with 90k miles. Mods are S&B intake, RX catch can, SCT livewire TS, and Solo catless DPs. ...

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Thread: Coolant operating temperature

  1. #1
    Ecoboost Sr Member CrawlerHauler's Avatar

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    Coolant operating temperature

    Truck is a 2011 F150 Platinum Ecoboost 4x4 with 90k miles. Mods are S&B intake, RX catch can, SCT livewire TS, and Solo catless DPs. I normally watch my temperatures and gauges like a hawk (through the livewire) About a month ago I started noticing higher than normal coolant temperatures at highway cruising speeds. For example, my coolant used to run at around 200-205 on the hwy cruising at 75mph. Now it runs at around 210-215. It doesn't seem to be dependent upon exterior temperature, it was 45 degrees outside one day and it was still running hotter. It isn't like I'm overheating either, I drive some decent hills on my normal commute and even on a hard pull, the hottest I'll see is around 225. One other odd effect is I'll see my Air Intake Temp rise randomly. I was towing around 6k and the temps were running around 215-220 on a slight but steady grade I saw the intake temperature rise to 90 even though it was only 65 outside. AIT is normally about 2 degrees cooler than the exterior temperature.

    The ONLY thing I've done recently is the catless down pipes. While I'm not tuned for them yet, I still can't see how this could affect the engine temperature this much. After I noticed the higher temps I even turned the tune down from the 91 octane to the 87 octane (Still physically running 91 premium fuel in the truck) but no change Is the water pump starting to fail? This doesn't seem like a thermostat issue to me. I have changed the coolant within the past 10k miles so shouldn't be any major issues there. Heat is my enemy and summer is coming quick so I'd like to get this figured out soon. Even before this I was looking at the race radiators but if this ends up being a water pump issue that would just be a temporary band aid.

    Thanks in advance for the help!

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    Eco-Beast milesej05's Avatar

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    #1-get a 170° thermostat
    #2-get a custom tune

    I don't have an intake or downpipes but my truck stays between 179° and 193° when it is 80° out...and hasn't gotten over 200° for as long as I can remember


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    Quote Originally Posted by erick View Post
    Does a s&b intake need a tune to make it work because im running one on stock tune and it made it slow

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    Ecoboost Veteran GuyGene's Avatar

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    Have you ever had the coolant flushed? I'm a believer in fluid changes!
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    Eco-Beast milesej05's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by GuyGene View Post
    Have you ever had the coolant flushed? I'm a believer in fluid changes!
    Changing out the thermostat does a pretty good job of flushing your coolant, especially if you don't get the T'stat in there correct the first time.


    2013 Oxford White EcoBoost FX4 with a few goodies

    Quote Originally Posted by erick View Post
    Does a s&b intake need a tune to make it work because im running one on stock tune and it made it slow

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    Gold Supporting Member rbrown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by milesej05 View Post
    #1-get a 170° thermostat #2-get a custom tune I don't have an intake or downpipes but my truck stays between 179° and 193° when it is 80° out...and hasn't gotten over 200° for as long as I can remember
    I understand why guys run a stat but I have been of the opinion that it will eventually become the same temp regardless of when it opens and may just take a little longer. Am I wrong in that thought process? I just never got one and I just went recently right for the large RAD. But was I missing something with the stats? Thanks dude

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    Eco-Beast milesej05's Avatar

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    Your truck is by far more built than mine, and I will admit I don't know the whole science behind changing to a cooler T'Stat. But I do know for a fact that when I had the stock one in I was reaching temperatures upwards of 212°.


    2013 Oxford White EcoBoost FX4 with a few goodies

    Quote Originally Posted by erick View Post
    Does a s&b intake need a tune to make it work because im running one on stock tune and it made it slow

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    Ecoboost Pro dnellans's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbrown View Post
    I understand why guys run a stat but I have been of the opinion that it will eventually become the same temp regardless of when it opens and may just take a little longer. Am I wrong in that thought process? I just never got one and I just went recently right for the large RAD. But was I missing something with the stats? Thanks dude
    thats right - 170 keeps the "baseline" 10F cooler when you're not flogging it. When you get on it 100% it only buys you the amount of time it takes to to go from 170->180, after that they're both flowing 100% and you are only as cool as the radiator can keep you. if you're just doing around town driving or pulls at the track, you're operating in that 10F improvement range almost all the time. if you're towing 10k pounds up davis dam under full boost in a ford commercial, the $1000 radiator is the better choice than the $40 thermostat
    noodles likes this.

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    Ecoboost Master phantomblackgto's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbrown View Post
    I understand why guys run a stat but I have been of the opinion that it will eventually become the same temp regardless of when it opens and may just take a little longer. Am I wrong in that thought process? I just never got one and I just went recently right for the large RAD. But was I missing something with the stats? Thanks dude
    You are pretty much right on in your thinking. When the t-stat opens, it just allows the coolant to run through the radiator for cooling effect. If you are pushing the engine hard, the t-stat will just remain open and eventually coolant temp will rise to the same temp as a higher temp t-stat would allow. The cooler t-stat will open sooner and will help delay the coolant temp rising as fast. Similarly, when the coolant cools, the lower temp t-stat will stay open longer and continue to flow through the radiator and cool down to the t-stats specs. This would again delay the heating of the coolant as you start pushing the engine again. Downside to running a cooler t-stat, other than the obvious not warming up as quickly in winter, is reduced gas mileage as a colder running engine will consume more fuel. If you ever notice an immediate drop in overall fuel mileage, one of the quickest checks is to see if the t-stat is stuck open.
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    Ecoboost Sr Member CrawlerHauler's Avatar

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    Ok, I definitely can't argue with the logic. But isn't the stock t stat 190??? So if my truck is always running at 210+ shouldn't it always be open anyway? I'm definitely willing to try the $40 experiment, it just seems like something else is off. Maybe an air bubble in the system somehow?

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    Eco-Beast TurboTim's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by CrawlerHauler View Post
    Ok, I definitely can't argue with the logic. But isn't the stock t stat 190??? So if my truck is always running at 210+ shouldn't it always be open anyway? I'm definitely willing to try the $40 experiment, it just seems like something else is off. Maybe an air bubble in the system somehow?
    188 I reckon

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