PCV operation

PCV operation

This is a discussion on PCV operation within the 2016 Ford F150 Ecoboost Chat forums, part of the 2nd Gen F150 Ecoboost Forum category; Does any one know why PCV setup is so different for two banks of the engine? Passenger side has pcv valve connected to intake manifold. ...

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    Rookie ftp19601960's Avatar

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    PCV operation

    Does any one know why PCV setup is so different for two banks of the engine? Passenger side has pcv valve connected to intake manifold. Driver side connects to driver side turbo ("WOT") pipe. Does driver side connector, except having inline pressure sensor have any one way check valve? I guess, passenger side pulls oil vapors in with partially opened throttle. When turbo kicks in then PCV valve on passenger side is closed and oil vapor evacuation happens through driver side outlet down to driver side turbo ... Am I right?

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    Eco-Beast noodles's Avatar

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    You got the right idea.
    Pass side works in vacuum only
    Driver's side is fresh air inlet during vacuum, then it becomes the PCV during boost. There is no check valve on the driver's side as it needs to flow both ways in OEM configuration.
    13 SuperCrew Ruby Red 302A, 4x4 6.5 box, 3.31, Roush 22's. Twin catch cans, "leveled" with Bilsteins (-2 front, -3 rear), AirLift, SCT. Other's may have displacement on demand... I have an endless supply of torque at my right foot's demand.


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    Rookie ftp19601960's Avatar

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    Then I don't understand why aftermarket catch cans (quit expensive IMHO) have so complicated routing? Do I need just two cans set in-line to existing piping on both sides?

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    Eco-Beast winchested's Avatar

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    You need a dual valve can. For proper evacuation.
    2011 XLT Screw 6.5' Box, Tux Black, 4" BDS lift, 34" BFG KO2 tires, 18x8.5" +18 XD spy Wheels, PTM oem Flares. Rampage Slimline nerf bars. 5* Tuned 87 P/T.

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    Rookie ftp19601960's Avatar

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    That bothers me: "proper". Does it mean OEM is improper?

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    Ecoboost Master phantomblackgto's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ftp19601960 View Post
    That bothers me: "proper". Does it mean OEM is improper?
    Yes, OEM is really not plumbed well for a boosted application. For that matter, even nonboosted, it's not a great idea to reintroduce the blowby back into the IM, particularly with direct injection. But, plumbing the driver side back through the turbo inlet is definitely not a great design.
    2013 XLT Off-Road 4x4 SCrew SB, Ecoboost, 5* 89 p/t, Rx dual valve catch can and CSS, 4" MBRP SS single exit cat back, Resonator delete, Bilstein 5100's all around, front set to 1.5", Fuel Trophy Anthracite wheels 18x9 +20, DuraTracs 295/65/18, Linex bedliner, Weathertech digital floor liners, Rado Auto black billet bumper insert, Stant locking fuel cap, Front license plate holder delete, Smith & Wesson MP9c security system

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    Rookie ftp19601960's Avatar

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    UPR guys do on driver side what I said above. Very simple solution by inserting a can into existing connection. They add, though, WOT suction line on passenger side. What I don't understand, why evacuation during WOT mode from one side only is not enough. Also, from where fresh air comes during WOT?

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    Eco-Beast winchested's Avatar

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    We know what works. The aftermarket engineers over at UPR have made the best system that works on this application. Pick up the phone and call them Joe explains it all quite well.

    You can question it all damn day if you feel like. Tons of us have them installed and know that it works and works well. And fixes where the oem lacks.

    If ford or any car manufacturer was perfect from the factory we would never ever have a booming aftermarket for better than factory parts.
    2011 XLT Screw 6.5' Box, Tux Black, 4" BDS lift, 34" BFG KO2 tires, 18x8.5" +18 XD spy Wheels, PTM oem Flares. Rampage Slimline nerf bars. 5* Tuned 87 P/T.

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    Rookie ftp19601960's Avatar

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    I know that it works. I just want to understand why it is made that way. Unfortunately nobody seems to answer all questions so far. UPR stopped short answering my questions after a few iterations.
    - Is evacuating from one side sufficient. Ford thinks so for both WOT and idle. UPR thinks only idle mode.
    - Why not use T connection and re-use existing WOT tube connection (Old "no drill" UPR setup). Is this due to pressure sensor on driver side which will be affected due to extra plumbing?

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    Rookie jhop's Avatar

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    I have this same confusion about factory routing vs aftermarket cc routing. I understand the concern with the factory routing of putting "dirty" air back into the intake and turbo, but my real question is with the amount of vacuum. The factory obviously feels that the intake manifold is sufficient for unboosted vacuum and that the driver side turbo provides sufficient vacuum during boost. Why do the aftermarket kits say you need both turbos for vacuum? Is this a "more is better" philosophy? If I installed an RX kit w/ CS separator and routed it per the instructions with the exception of not drilling the PS turbo tube, but instead, only used the DS turbo tube for WOT vacuum, would this work? Obviously I'm wanting to limit irreversible modifications... Another question... could you tie the two "dirty" ports on both sides together with a "T" and run them to the catch can as normal?
    GranpaFlyer likes this.

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