How hard is it to do: Coolant Flush and Rear diff fluid change?

How hard is it to do: Coolant Flush and Rear diff fluid change?

This is a discussion on How hard is it to do: Coolant Flush and Rear diff fluid change? within the F150 Ecoboost Maintenance forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Garage category; Anyone tell me how hard these are to do? Are their videos showing technique? Local shop wants $100 to do a coolant flush and over ...

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Thread: How hard is it to do: Coolant Flush and Rear diff fluid change?

  1. #1
    Ecoboost Regular Kbuicker's Avatar

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    How hard is it to do: Coolant Flush and Rear diff fluid change?

    Anyone tell me how hard these are to do? Are their videos showing technique?

    Local shop wants $100 to do a coolant flush and over $200 to do a rear diff fluid change. I'm able to do on my own, just never done either. My truck has 81k miles on it, so I believe it's due. Thanks for your responses!

    Note: I completed the diff fluid change.. very easy, but messy!
    Last edited by Kbuicker; 09-24-2015 at 01:46 PM.

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    Gold Supporting Member Mr B's Avatar
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    Not sure on coolant cost but it sounds high. On diff you need to take off cover, let drain then clean housing and cover then use sealant to seal back up and then add 2 1/2 quarts diff oil. Goggle it, good luck

    Edit: forgot to add about additive for non E-Locker diff's just ad to limited slip. And covers don't come with gaskets from factory even if it did it would have been distroyed, so you'll need to get one, about $12. Sorry if I got you confused
    Last edited by Mr B; 09-15-2015 at 08:59 PM.

    2013 F150 Supercrew Lariat+ | Kodiac Brown | 4X4 | 502A | Tow | 3.55 E-Locker | SCT X4 5* 93per/tow | Michelin Defender LTX M/S 285/60R20 | PowerStop slotted-drilled front and back rotors W/ Z36 pads | Bilsteins 5100's X4 |Hellwig rear Anti-Sway Bar | Firestone Ride-Rite Rear Airbags (5000) | Air Lift WirelessAIR On-Board Air Compressor (7200) | AMP Research Power Step | spray in bed liner | HID lights | full LED | aFePower diff. Cover | 3.0 door detent | DeeZee TGA | Retrax Pro Cover | Rugged Ridge FM | Anzo LED side Mirror lights | UPR Billet Emblems | aFePower 4"X12" black exhaust tip | OEM Rear Wheel Well Liners | Westin Contour bull bar | Rigid Industries D-Series D2 LED Lights | raptor grill lights | SnapRest armrest | Bright TRAX led puddle lights | TrailFX window vents/hood protector | 35% tint | My Build https://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/1...-counting.html


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    Eco-Beast outlaw25's Avatar

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    I have not looked into mine because it's not due, but most rear ends use a special fluid and many use an additive.
    If the rear end doesn't have a drain plug I'd recommend replacing the gasket instead of just resealing it with the old one. Cheap money.
    Many times you can have your coolant checked for free at local auto parts stores. I'd do that before replacing.

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    Eco-Beast norcal_ecoscrew's Avatar

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    Your coolant is probably okay unless you've had leaks, contamination, or other issues. $100 to flush the coolant seems like a bargain compared to the $200 rear diff fluid change. I might pay that price considering the labor involved, cost of coolant, and hassle of disposing of the old stuff properly.

    Rear diff is super easy, pretty standard for all trucks. Just look up a video on youtube of the procedure for any American pickup truck and it will be just about the same. When I did mine it took at least 2.5 quarts. If you have a limited slip, be sure that the oil you're using has a friction modifier in it, might be best to stick with the Ford stuff for that.
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    Eco-Beast norcal_ecoscrew's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by outlaw25 View Post
    I have not looked into mine because it's not due, but most rear ends use a special fluid and many use an additive.
    Just standard synthetic gear oil will work fine if you have an open diff or a locker.

    Only if you have a limited slip (clutch packs) do you need something with the friction modifier in it.
    outlaw25 likes this.
    2012 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 4x4, 3.31 Rear, 5.5 Box, Ingot Silver Metallic
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    -SCT x4 w/ Custom 91 Tune, S&B CAI w/ Dry Filter, Wagner CAC, Turbosmart BPV's, Full Race Catch Can, Solo Catted Downpipes, 3" custom catback
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    Ecoboost Regular Kbuicker's Avatar

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    I can see where they are getting the $200. I can get parts for around $100 for the lube and sealant (to seal cover back on when closing). Wow, expensive stuff!

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    Ecoboost Regular Kbuicker's Avatar

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    Not at all, very good response, thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr B View Post
    Not sure on coolant cost but it sounds high. On diff you need to take off cover, let drain then clean housing and cover then use sealant to seal back up and then add 2 1/2 quarts diff oil. Goggle it, good luck

    Edit: forgot to add about additive for non E-Locker diff's just ad to limited slip. And covers don't come with gaskets from factory even if it did it would have been distroyed, so you'll need to get one, about $12. Sorry if I got you confused

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    Ecoboost Master bayourunner's Avatar

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    So if you have a elocker you don't have limited slip?

    All I know is that I have 3.55 with elocker. So I don't need the additive?

    What diff fluid are you guys using?

    Also when you say clean what does that Intel? Brake cleaner and a brush?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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    Gold Supporting Member Mr B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bayourunner View Post
    So if you have a elocker you don't have limited slip?

    All I know is that I have 3.55 with elocker. So I don't need the additive?

    What diff fluid are you guys using?

    Also when you say clean what does that Intel? Brake cleaner and a brush?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
    yes about the E-Locker

    Attachment 39779

    to clean I used sharp putty knife, hard brush and alcohol
    bayourunner likes this.

    2013 F150 Supercrew Lariat+ | Kodiac Brown | 4X4 | 502A | Tow | 3.55 E-Locker | SCT X4 5* 93per/tow | Michelin Defender LTX M/S 285/60R20 | PowerStop slotted-drilled front and back rotors W/ Z36 pads | Bilsteins 5100's X4 |Hellwig rear Anti-Sway Bar | Firestone Ride-Rite Rear Airbags (5000) | Air Lift WirelessAIR On-Board Air Compressor (7200) | AMP Research Power Step | spray in bed liner | HID lights | full LED | aFePower diff. Cover | 3.0 door detent | DeeZee TGA | Retrax Pro Cover | Rugged Ridge FM | Anzo LED side Mirror lights | UPR Billet Emblems | aFePower 4"X12" black exhaust tip | OEM Rear Wheel Well Liners | Westin Contour bull bar | Rigid Industries D-Series D2 LED Lights | raptor grill lights | SnapRest armrest | Bright TRAX led puddle lights | TrailFX window vents/hood protector | 35% tint | My Build https://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/1...-counting.html


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    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    No additive for e lock. Need synthetic lube 75-140. Amsoil severe gear and forget about it.

    Tools needed - razor blade, lint free rags (will throw away), RTV sealant (if using stock cover), torque wrench if you're OCD, brake clean and fluid pump. I don't know stock torque specs of nuts off top of my head, it is not much. Stock cover takes almost 3 quarts, fill through fill hole on drive side until it starts to weep out on level surface.

    Coolant should be like any other, drain peacock on passenger lower corner of radiator. Basic flush, just open that, close it, fill through expansion tank. Run truck with heat on high to burb system. The orange coolant from Ford is pretty pricey.

    I would for sure do your transfer case too, again using pump. It take 5 mins. I would also do your transmission. I would do the transmission and t case before the other two with 80k miles.

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