Ecoboost question?

Ecoboost question?

This is a discussion on Ecoboost question? within the F150 Ecoboost Maintenance forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Garage category; I know this may be a stupid question, but going to ask it anyways. I have had a coolant leak and I have been running ...

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Thread: Ecoboost question?

  1. #1
    Rookie coachwate's Avatar

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    Ecoboost question?

    I know this may be a stupid question, but going to ask it anyways. I have had a coolant leak and I have been running it down. It is not the turbos or the coolant tank. It is coming from somewhere on the back of the motor. I have new gaskets for the coolant crossover/bypass tube and o-rings for the coolant pipe. I'm going to try this and see if it seals it up. It is leaking down onto the drivers side bell housing and then to the exhaust underneath it. My main question is do I have to buy the Motorcraft Orange coolant or is there a substitute out there for the ecoboost? I just don't want to spend $35 a gallon for it to just continue to leak out. If this seals the leak I'm going to do a flush eventually and replace it all anyways. I'm going to give it a few weeks to make sure the leak is completely sealed. Any help at this point will be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Ecoboost Regular Noblest's Avatar

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    Coolant lines run between the back of the motor and the Turbos. Other than coolant tank, the lines from turbo to block are the most prevalent to leak. Ones on back of engine are the hardest to get at. My bet is it's the one on drivers side. You'll need to pull the crossover pipe anyway to get better reach behind engine.
    Many threads on this. Do a search and you should find plenty of info.
    I stayed with the Ford orange coolant. Dependent upon your climate, mix could vary.
    Good luck!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    SCT Livewire TS+ w/ 5*custom 93 tune / AFE CAI / AFE Blade Runner charge pipe / AFE 4" cat back / Snow Performance water/meth kit / 170 Tstat / CR Performance full bore exhaust manifolds / Full Race GT Turbos / Turbo Smart BOVs / UPR dual catch can / SP534 Plugs at .03 Some others; Hellwig sway bars / Bilstein shocks / Pro Comp add a leafs / walnut blast valves / 180k miles orig. eng. / heavy foot





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    Ecoboost Sr Member Lghtnfst's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Noblest View Post
    Coolant lines run between the back of the motor and the Turbos. Other than coolant tank, the lines from turbo to block are the most prevalent to leak. Ones on back of engine are the hardest to get at. My bet is it's the one on drivers side. You'll need to pull the crossover pipe anyway to get better reach behind engine.
    Many threads on this. Do a search and you should find plenty of info.
    I stayed with the Ford orange coolant. Dependent upon your climate, mix could vary.
    Good luck!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    I'm getting ready to do this job on my truck, can you explain "pull the crossover pipe away to get better reach"

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    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    A picture is worth a thousand words...

    Name:  Ecoboost Coolant Flow Diagram.jpg
Views: 82
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    Name:  Capture.JPG
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    There are four coolant locations for the turbo. Block --> Turbo (inlet) and Turbo --> Head (outlet). I believe he is refering to the connection where the coolant goes back to the head. Most people get at that connector from the top, by removing the crossover pipe so you can get your hand back there (items #6 and #8). Unless you have very small hands, you cannot reach it from the side, or from underneath. It's on the BACK of the head.
    Noblest likes this.
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    Ecoboost Regular Noblest's Avatar

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    Bell housing removed in this photo, at 11:45 you can see the coolant line on the block for drivers side.


    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    GearHead_1 likes this.
    SCT Livewire TS+ w/ 5*custom 93 tune / AFE CAI / AFE Blade Runner charge pipe / AFE 4" cat back / Snow Performance water/meth kit / 170 Tstat / CR Performance full bore exhaust manifolds / Full Race GT Turbos / Turbo Smart BOVs / UPR dual catch can / SP534 Plugs at .03 Some others; Hellwig sway bars / Bilstein shocks / Pro Comp add a leafs / walnut blast valves / 180k miles orig. eng. / heavy foot





  7. #6
    Ecoboost Veteran jibtechwarrior's Avatar

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    Our coolant is dexcool. Buy that to save the dealer Kool aid. I'd bet it's a leaking o-ring for the turbo coolant feed.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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    Rookie coachwate's Avatar

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    So would it be easier to drop the transmission to get to this fitting? I changed all of my gaskets and some of the coolant was coming from one of the o-rings on the coolant pipe from the thermostat housing y-pipe, but it's looking like one of the turbo coolant fittings on the heads is leaking. If it is easier to drop the transmission, is there a thread or video to help with the process? I know enough about cars and trucks to keep them running, but I'm a school teacher by trade. So any extra help is welcomed.

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    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Have you positively identified the location of the leak in the thermostat coolant pipe? The pipe runs from the back of the motor to the thermostat housing. It has a rather large o-ring on each end. So could be leaking from the rear or the front. Another possibility is a leak where the thermostat goes. This gasket is prone to being "pinched" upon installing a thermostat.

    The rear coolant fittings on the head are definitely easier with the transmission out. But taking out the transmission presents a lot more difficulties in my opinion unless you have the right tools for the job. It's difficult to reach the top bolts on the bell housing. Plus it's heavy so you'll likely need two people, a lift or something to support the transmission when it's out.
    Last edited by DNA Dan; 04-23-2019 at 08:55 AM.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

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    Rookie coachwate's Avatar

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    I replaced all of the o-rings and other gaskets with the coolant pipe. I didn't know that it was leaking at the coolant pipe until I changed them. There was a slight tear on the front one and you could see where the coolant was getting through. My initial hope was that it was the crossover pipe gaskets, so I was able to get a complete gasket set for all of that had to be taken off. I would say that it is definitely the fitting because everything else is brand new. What my wife and I are trying to decide is if I can take care of it with my brother-in-law (very mechanically savvy) or do I send it to someone to complete the work? I know that it will be cheaper for me to do it, but it will take longer to complete.

  11. #10
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Check out post #101 by Torchred in this thread. https://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/3...-turbo-11.html

    He is talking about what he did to get at the driver's side connector on the head. I think the passenger side can be reached through the wheel well. Bust out the fasteners and unscrew the bolts near the edge of the fender. It's way easier to see and access the turbo through the wheel well. The driver's side however isn't as easy.

    When I was in mine replacing the coolant crossover pipe, it seemed reasonable to reach them from the top with a wrench and torque with a crows foot. Mine were not leaking, so I just decided to roll the dice until they do.
    Last edited by DNA Dan; 04-23-2019 at 09:15 AM.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

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