WTH, Coil Screw Just Spinning, won't back out!!!

WTH, Coil Screw Just Spinning, won't back out!!!

This is a discussion on WTH, Coil Screw Just Spinning, won't back out!!! within the F150 Ecoboost Maintenance forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Garage category; Well, went to change the plugs this afternoon, and the rear passenger plug (thankfully I started there) coil screw just spins and won't back out!!!! ...

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  1. #1
    Ecoboost Master TOWMA8R's Avatar

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    WTH, Coil Screw Just Spinning, won't back out!!!

    Well, went to change the plugs this afternoon, and the rear passenger plug (thankfully I started there) coil screw just spins and won't back out!!!! Tried to put a screw driver between the coil plastic under the head and pry it up while loosing, won't work..... Tried pliers and turn it while pulling up, nothing..... So I am at a loss as to how to remove the coil? I might have to shear the screw head off, which I do not want to do.... I will stop and get a small vise grip and try to attach and twist loose while pulling upward in hopes it starts to lift out after spinning it.


    After that, any ideas?
    2019 3.5L F150 CC FX4 XLT Max Tow, 5* Tuned, Leveled & More to Come!
    RIP-2015 CC FX4 l 3.55's l Raptor Style Grille l Leveled l 305/60/18 Vision Manics l Bilstein 4600's l Powerstop Z36's l AEM CAI l MSD Coils l Exhaust Tweaks l Tow Mirrors l Upgraded Trans Cooler (GH 13.31 1/4)

  2. #2
    Ecoboost Sr Member stereotype one's Avatar

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    Hmmm.... You've tried a couple of my "go to" methods already... If you're willing to sacrifice the coil and have access (sorry, I've removed coils on my truck but can't picture one installed exactly right now), you might be able to cut the coil loose with a Dremel by making cuts up to the coil screw until you can break the coil away, leaving the "meat" of the screw exposed and giving you more metal to work with. A lot of times you can then use a needle nose pliers or vice grips to put some upward pressure on the screw as you attempt to loosen. Sometimes just having more of the screw's metal exposed and having the screw "depressurized" (aka. not holding down the coil) makes all of the difference. Good luck, and keep us posted! - David

  3. #3
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by TOWMA8R View Post
    So I am at a loss as to how to remove the coil? I might have to shear the screw head off, which I do not want to do.... I will stop and get a small vise grip and try to attach and twist loose while pulling upward in hopes it starts to lift out after spinning it.

    After that, any ideas?
    I believe the nut for the bolt is press fit into the valve cover. It sounds like that nut is spinning inside the cover. You may be looking at replacing the cover once you get it off. If pulling up on the bolt with some type screwdriver/fastener remover doesn't work, I think you'll have to cut the bolt head off like you suggested already. Is it possible to get a thin screwdriver just under the coil where the nut is?

    If you go whipping out the dremel on it, make sure you disconnect the battery.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

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  5. #4
    Ecoboost Master TOWMA8R's Avatar

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    Well. I picked up a small set of of vise grips and will give it a try later this week. Attach tot he head and then twist and pull up, hopefully the screw backs out.... If this won't work I will have to break the dremel. (battery disconnected of course)
    2019 3.5L F150 CC FX4 XLT Max Tow, 5* Tuned, Leveled & More to Come!
    RIP-2015 CC FX4 l 3.55's l Raptor Style Grille l Leveled l 305/60/18 Vision Manics l Bilstein 4600's l Powerstop Z36's l AEM CAI l MSD Coils l Exhaust Tweaks l Tow Mirrors l Upgraded Trans Cooler (GH 13.31 1/4)

  6. #5
    Rookie Jr732's Avatar

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    I found a method for getting the coil bolts out, 1/8 drill and a 1/8 spring pin, put drill next to the bolt head at the widest part of the coil then drill at an angle so as to drill into the bushing under the bolt, then tap in the spring pin and use a impact wrench when possible.
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  7. #6
    Ecoboost Pro Mitchf150's Avatar

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    What? I've changed the plugs twice on my 13 and have not had that issue? Changed the plugs 3 times on my old 97 and never had that problem with the little coil bolts?

    OMG... Could not imagine drilling into the coil to get the little 8mm bolt out??

    Mitch
    2013 F150 SuperCab 4x4 XLT Max Tow 3.73 Egoboost. #7700 GVWR, #1920 payload. Bilstein 5100 shocks, PowerStop "Max Tow" brakes. Hellwig 2500 overload spings. 2003 Prowler Lynx 722F, #5000 GVWR and weighs every bit of it!

  8. #7
    Eco-Beast winchested's Avatar

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    I don't get it... the nut is in the valve cover? Why did you destroy the coils?
    2011 XLT Screw 6.5' Box, Tux Black, 4" BDS lift, 34" BFG KO2 tires, 18x8.5" +18 XD spy Wheels, PTM oem Flares. Rampage Slimline nerf bars. 5* Tuned 87 P/T.

  9. #8
    Eco-Beast ptown's Avatar

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    What in the world is going on three posts above this


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #9
    Rookie Jr732's Avatar

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    That is the point I did not destroy the coil by drilling, instead I saved them because the previous owner tightened them to tight.

  11. #10
    Eco-Beast winchested's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jr732 View Post
    I found a method for getting the coil bolts out, 1/8 drill and a 1/8 spring pin, put drill next to the bolt head at the widest part of the coil then drill at an angle so as to drill into the bushing under the bolt, then tap in the spring pin and use a impact wrench when possible.
    Is that not a giant crack all the way thru the weatherproofing on the coil?
    2011 XLT Screw 6.5' Box, Tux Black, 4" BDS lift, 34" BFG KO2 tires, 18x8.5" +18 XD spy Wheels, PTM oem Flares. Rampage Slimline nerf bars. 5* Tuned 87 P/T.

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