Trying to do a brake job, rear wheels will not come off. - Page 2

Trying to do a brake job, rear wheels will not come off.

This is a discussion on Trying to do a brake job, rear wheels will not come off. within the F150 Ecoboost Brakes forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Garage category; Itís not my favourite method, but you can put the lugs back on but leave them loose. Hop in the truck and go for a ...

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Thread: Trying to do a brake job, rear wheels will not come off.

  1. #11
    Gold Supporting Member Blown F-150's Avatar
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    Itís not my favourite method, but you can put the lugs back on but leave them loose. Hop in the truck and go for a drive around the block. Please, please be careful if you use this method.

    Swerve it back and forth a bit and it usually does the trick. Itís usually the hub-centric ring that gets seized.

    Other methods Iíve had success with is to use a hi-lift jack between the wheels with some big blocks of wood or air chisel around the rotor close to the wheel to loosen up the rust/corrosion. Depends on wheel design and type though.

    Good luck.


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  2. #12
    Ecoboost Master Envious's Avatar

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    Pull it off with your Jeep??? (yes im being sarcastic. I just wanna see the jeep more. lol )
    snakebitten likes this.
    2013 FX4 - Black Betty
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    Eco-Beast FUHL's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Envious View Post
    Pull it off with your Jeep??? (yes im being sarcastic. I just wanna see the jeep more. lol )
    I haven't got any good ones lately.
    Here is the dash when it turned 1941 miles, for the year the first Jeep was made.
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    2013 Ford XLT 4X4, 2013 Range Rover Evoque, 2007 Can-AM Renegade 800, 2001 Yamaha TT-R125L, 2016 Beta Xtrainer 300 Traci, as in Traci Lords, because it is like riding a young porn star. 2018 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2-Door.

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  5. #14
    Eco-Beast FUHL's Avatar

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    I don't remember if I posted this one or not. It is a great daily driver.
    I get asked about my plate often.
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    Envious and milesej05 like this.
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  6. #15
    Ecoboost Master Envious's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by FUHL View Post
    I don't remember if I posted this one or not. It is a great daily driver.
    I get asked about my plate often.
    Man that is beautiful. Looked like a place me and my buddy went when we were in middle school. It was a small town called tincup in CO and looked like that.
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  7. #16
    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    lol is this serious? Just kick the tire

    Make sure your ebrake is off before hammering the rotors too...

  8. #17
    Ecoboost Veteran Beaker80's Avatar

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    I've used a propane torch around the center portion of the wheel. Go in a circular motion. Do not concentrate the heat in any one spot. Then hit the tire with your sledge hammer. Clean up the corrosion and apply anti-seize to the contact points. I do this with my steel winter wheels and my summer aluminum wheels. Usually just a heel kick now.
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  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    lol is this serious? Just kick the tire

    Make sure your ebrake is off before hammering the rotors too...
    Yes, serious. I even hit them as hard as I could with a sledge hammer.
    Your welcome to come over and try it with your bionic leg.
    Last edited by FUHL; 04-09-2019 at 02:13 PM.
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  10. #19
    Gold Supporting Member Blown F-150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUHL View Post
    Yes, serious. I even hit them as hard as I could with a edge hammer.
    Your welcome to come over and try it with your bionic leg.
    Grab a frame straightener from Harbour Freight and then get it between the wheels and giver.

    Bring back the tool after for a full refund.


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  11. #20
    Ecoboost Master mmateri's Avatar

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    Jack it up and put a 2x4 behind the tire touching the rim, and use a heavy dead blow hammer to hit it from behind. rotate the tire and repeat. This should keep you from damaging the wheel. You can really swing a dead blow, and they tend to work better for stuff like this than sledge hammers.
    Blown F-150, FUHL and Mikedick77 like this.

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