Coolant temps when towing - Page 8

Coolant temps when towing

This is a discussion on Coolant temps when towing within the F150 Ecoboost Towing forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; I agree with you don't need fans coming on at freeway speeds. Frontal area of our truck allows more air movement at 55mph than fans ...

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  1. #71
    Eco-Beast noodles's Avatar

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    I agree with you don't need fans coming on at freeway speeds. Frontal area of our truck allows more air movement at 55mph than fans can pull/push.
    13 SuperCrew Ruby Red 302A, 4x4 6.5 box, 3.31, Roush 22's. Twin catch cans, "leveled" with Bilsteins (-2 front, -3 rear), AirLift, SCT. Other's may have displacement on demand... I have an endless supply of torque at my right foot's demand.


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    Ecoboost Jr Member jimmy-six's Avatar

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    All stock 2013 with max tow. With 8000 pulling the water goes to 230 and the trans didn't when climbing. Trans was serviced and it started climbing up to 230 also. Found trans level high by 2 quarts and the service guy said that was OK. I've never had anyone say an automatic was OK to have over full so I took it out. I'm now using lower gears when towing. I have an Edge Monitor and found the ignition advance at zero so I continued to lower gears until it came up at least into the teens. I know that less advance means HEAT big time...
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    Ecoboost Regular zac692069's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmy-six View Post
    All stock 2013 with max tow. With 8000 pulling the water goes to 230 and the trans didn't when climbing. Trans was serviced and it started climbing up to 230 also. Found trans level high by 2 quarts and the service guy said that was OK. I've never had anyone say an automatic was OK to have over full so I took it out. I'm now using lower gears when towing. I have an Edge Monitor and found the ignition advance at zero so I continued to lower gears until it came up at least into the teens. I know that less advance means HEAT big time...
    To be honest i have never checked trans fluid level
    Last edited by zac692069; 07-23-2017 at 11:48 AM.

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    Ecoboost Regular dsmtuned's Avatar

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    I just drove 3200 miles from Colorado to Oregon and back towing a 6000lb wind stopper of a camper. My truck was getting hot like everyone else's, especially on steep sustained grades with hot ambient temps.

    I changed my SCT Livewire to display cylinder head temps and IAT2. I had lots of time to find correlations on our trip. When boost was over 8psi, the IATs would rise. Once IATs were above 130*, the cylinder head temps would rise quickly. This was such a clear relationship that I could work to keep the IAT2 under 130* and have no overheating problems. Of course this required driving slower. Once the IATs went above that 130* mark, and the cylinder head temps reached 275*, the engine temp gauge on the dash would rise above the middle and push quickly toward the H until I slowed down and let off.

    I pulled over several times to check stuff out. I found that there was no difference in temperatures between the inlet and outlet sides of the intercooler when I touched it with my hand. The intercooler wasn't doing much cooling. I found when driving that IAT2 took a long time to decrease after being high even when I took it really easy. I see this as intercooler heatsoak.

    There are several problems with our trucks' intercoolers. 1) The condensation TSB which led Ford to place plastic covers on the top 1/4 of our intercoolers, drastically decreased the airflow through the intercooler. 2) There is no ducting between the bumper and intercooler. The air coming in the bumper wants to go to low pressure area, which is around the IC and out the sides of the aero piece under the bumper. I've never seen a turbocharged vehicle without airflow directed at the intercooler. 3) Our trucks have tiny turbos. These become less efficient as the boost increases, so when towing with lots of load and high boost, they are really good hair dryers producing tons of heat. This heat requires superior intercooling.

    Here's what I did while driving home from Oregon because I got so frustrated. I first removed Ford's stupid band-aid of a plastic shield to allow air to flow to the top 1/4 of the IC. Then I ducted the IC to force all air through the IC. These two moves helped significantly. Only on mountain passes in high ambient temps did the truck heat up significantly. I'm still buying an aftermarket intercooler and I'll duct that one too. I feel this will give me a bigger cushion.
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    Ecoboost Jr Member jimmy-six's Avatar

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    DSMtuned I like what ur saying about removing the shield. Ez for me to do before towing. 99% of my driving is without the trailer. On my monitor the intake air temp got up to 135 in the Ca Central Valley when idling in 105 temp. It would go down when moving. My max on the head temp is 250 and it would only get there when the coolant was 225....
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    Coolant temps when towing

    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead_1 View Post
    I do not believe this is a fan issue (YMMV) if we're talking about the problem being at freeway speeds. Electric, mechanical, no matter, neither can pull the volume of air across the radiator that is being pushed across it with the vehicle moving 60 mph. If we're talking about overheating in the city, at a stop light or block to block then fans are worth looking at. I could certainly entertain the idea that the cooling system isn't engineered sufficiently for the heat these little hammers make. Just my .2 cents.
    I would have never thought this either, but I found out the hard way on my jeep. I started having overheat issues on the highway unloaded and the first thing I checked was the fan clutch, which was no longer locking up. I swapped it for a Hayden Hd clutch, which was supposed to engage at lower temps, and oddly didn't fix the issue. Built myself a custom aluminum shroud with an electric fan, still overheating. Totally removed the efan and shroud and it actually performed better at highway speeds but would still overheat on long climbs and was horrible at low speeds. After all this I decided something else was wrong so I flushed the coolant system twice, replaced the water pump, started running Redline water wetter, pulled the radiator end tanks to inspect the internals, swapped Tstat, even had two separate shops run head gasket leak tests. Nothing fixed it. At a total loss for solutions, I went and checked the Hayden clutch and found out it didn't work and never did since day 1, so I went and installed a flex fan with no clutch. Now my jeep won't overheat. I've even turned up the boost and fueling another 10% (already was tuned) since installing the fan and can't get it to get more than a few degrees over Tstat opening temp.

    The jeep NEEDS a functioning mechanical fan to stay cool climbing at highway speeds. Bad fan clutch, Efans and no shroud/fan all led to overheating just trying to drive uphill at 65 mph.



    I mean this thing is 19" in diameter, the blades are 2.5 inches deep front to back and with the pulley sizes it's spinning at 6000 rpms when the engine is at 4000. That moves some air. No efan is gunna come close.

    If it was me and I already had the FR radiator and aftermarket cac, I would be looking at the shroud and fans. We all agree the efans probably don't help at highway speeds so now they are sitting behind the radiator along with the shroud forcing any air to slip through the small openings that are not taken up by the fan motors or blades. I mean we can't expect all the air flowing through the grill to slip through two 14" fans, a third of which is taken up by the fan motor.

    I suspect that opening up the flow through the back of the radiator may help.

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    Last edited by mass-hole; 07-04-2017 at 01:28 AM.
    2014 Lariat Screw, 157", Max Tow, 502A - Gearhead Tuned, AFE Intercooler, RX Catch Can, Bilstein 5100(.8" level), AirLift RideControl bags, 275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD(diesel) - GDE Tune, Straight piped, AFE filter, 2.5" Lift, ARB bumper

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    Ecoboost Master GearHead_1's Avatar

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    @mass-hole, Been through all of that (flex fans, clutch fans, electric fans, dual electric fans, fan shrouds, low temp thermostat, no thermostat etc.) with a 67 Cougar with a built 428 in it. At the end of the day the type of fan and whether it was running or not made zero difference when he car was at speed. Glad yours worked for you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead_1 View Post
    @mass-hole, Been through all of that (flex fans, clutch fans, electric fans, dual electric fans, fan shrouds, low temp thermostat, no thermostat etc.) with a 67 Cougar with a built 428 in it. At the end of the day the type of fan and whether it was running or not made zero difference when he car was at speed. Glad yours worked for you.
    I had a 67 mustang fastback that would overheat on highway speeds but was ok around town. Replaced radiator and it was good. Do you still have that cougar?

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    Ecoboost Regular dsmtuned's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmy-six View Post
    DSMtuned I like what ur saying about removing the shield. Ez for me to do before towing. 99% of my driving is without the trailer. On my monitor the intake air temp got up to 135 in the Ca Central Valley when idling in 105 temp. It would go down when moving. My max on the head temp is 250 and it would only get there when the coolant was 225....
    The idea behind that TSB shield on the IC was to raise the temp of the IC to keep the condensation in a gaseous state so it didn't collect. Under high loads, we want the entire surface area of the IC to be working for us.

  11. #80
    Ecoboost Regular dsmtuned's Avatar

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    Here is my ducting. Without it, air coming through the bumper will go to the area of lowest pressure, which is around the IC.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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