Is my trailer too big? - Page 4

Is my trailer too big?

This is a discussion on Is my trailer too big? within the F150 Ecoboost Towing forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; Originally Posted by madmaxmutt Not that you would ever get to the tow rating within GVWR on a camper, but . . . . .So, ...

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Thread: Is my trailer too big?

  1. #31
    Ecoboost Sr Member Ctgblue's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
    Not that you would ever get to the tow rating within GVWR on a camper, but . . . . .So, they all chose this exact arbitrary number that has absolutely no basis?
    Because, in their experience, MANY people load their trailers more then they think. It's never a good idea to max out the rating of the truck if you want it to last long. Mainly, I think they are concerned about handling and brakes though.
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  2. #32
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Man View Post
    I have a 2017 Screw, 3.5, 157" WB with max tow. I pull a trailer that is about 8k with 850 hitch weight. No matter how I set my WDH my rear end of the truck would be about 1.5" low. It pulled fine but headlights were high at night. We were about 300# under payload when fully geared up. I installed a set of Ride-Rite bags, put 30psi in them and problem solved. I worked with the Equalizer hitch people for over a month on different settings and could not get the rear of the truck to level, even with the trailer unloaded. Given that the initial rear spring rates are pretty soft on the F150 for a good ride, the bags just helped to level. Air bags will not increase payload but in my case helped to put a little more weight on the front end. Very easy to install and a $300 fix.
    Mine was the exact same way. In fact, if I over-corrected the Equalizer hitch for more weight transfer to the front tires, it still sagged 1-1.5" in the rear. Installed the ride rites, set the desired height, adjust the hitch, then always fill to that pressure to make sure you don't counter the weight transfer. Remember, the increased height from the air bags will counter the weight transfer from the hitch. I have found the sweet spot for my setup is about 45 PSI in the bags. Rides very level with almost 100% return on the front end.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  3. #33
    Eco-Beast madmaxmutt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ctgblue View Post
    Because, in their experience, MANY people load their trailers more then they think. It's never a good idea to max out the rating of the truck if you want it to last long. Mainly, I think they are concerned about handling and brakes though.
    I could sort of agree if they (as most dealers do) were talking dry weight. If you put 1500 lbs over GVWR on most TTs, you will find trailer suspension problems long before you find truck problems. But, this has nothing to do with the OPs problem. His a$$hat dealer didn't properly adjust his hitch. As he stated they initially eyeballed it which is just stupid. They also didn't explain loading to him and sold him a tongue light trailer, since the listed TW is less than 10%. He needs to raise that for sure.
    2017 Ford F350 Lariat FX4 SRW 4x4
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  5. #34
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by madmaxmutt View Post
    His a$$hat dealer didn't properly adjust his hitch. As he stated they initially eyeballed it which is just stupid. They also didn't explain loading to him and sold him a tongue light trailer, since the listed TW is less than 10%. He needs to raise that for sure.
    Hey - highschool kids need jobs too. Sad that this is all too common in the trailer/RV world.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  6. #35
    Ecoboost Regular cajunfla's Avatar

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    Ok here we go.... Found out the trailer had about 20 gallons of water in the tank by opening the drain "just in case". That was part of the problem. Did a hitch adjustment today. Started the front wheel well measurement of 36 3/16" with hitch and trailer off, full bag of fuel. Adjust the WDH 1 position, put back on the truck and hooked up the empty trailer, 36 7/16". So maybe 1 more adjustment and check with loaded trailer.
    2018 Guard (WTH kinda name is that for a color) * F-150 XLT S/Crew 2.7 * 3.55 rear * Trailer Tow Package * 18" Hankook's * Pro Backup Assist * Tailgate Step * Running Boards * Fog Lights * stubby antenna * full BedRug * Gator Tonneau * windows tinted dark as legal in Florida *

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    Rookie Bamaman's Avatar

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    You've received some great, straight information here. I had a travel trailer for many years, and the adjustment of the hitch is so important. And really cranking down that sway control is another important thing. I remember heavy trucks passing me on the interstate and blowing me over into the next lane--scaring me greatly.

    Remember that all non Max Tow 1/2 ton trucks are sprung like an old Crown Victoria. And all 1/2 ton trucks have very weak shock absorbers. And the P series tires are for ride, not weight carrying capability. Those 20" tires are really pretty, but not beefy in the sidewalls.

    Just take it step by step. Blow up the tires on your truck and travel trailer to the maximum PSI. Crank up the WDH to where there is no squat. You may have to put a set of air bags to really get it level. I've had Bilsteins, but other high quality shocks are available for ridiculously cheap prices at RockAuto.com. Shocks have a relatively short lifespan, and they should be changed every 30-40K miles. They are important if you're getting blown around or if the rig handles badly. If you tow very much and far, a $150 TruCool tranny cooler is cheap insurance for your drivetrain.

    (I'm towing a 11K lb. fifth wheel with 2K lbs. kingpin weight with a F250 2wd crew cab diesel--within specs. but max'd out).
    snakebitten likes this.

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    Ecoboost Jr Member gnewby's Avatar

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    You might check the other two tanks to see if they have any fluids in them. I think you are writing the wrong measurement here on your post as you are showing that the front wheel wheel measurement is now higher than what it was with no load on it. If so that would mean you have less weight on the front tires?

  9. #38
    Gold Supporting Member Mr B's Avatar
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    Great thread! That's why I'm buying my own WDH (Andersen Hitch3350) and have all the tools BEFORE I buy my TT and set it up myself with their help (if they want to)

    2013 F150 Supercrew Lariat+ | Kodiac Brown | 4X4 | 502A | Tow | 3.55 E-Locker | SCT X4 5* 93per/tow | Michelin Defender LTX M/S 285/60R20 | PowerStop slotted-drilled front and back rotors W/ Z36 pads | Bilsteins 5100's X4 |Hellwig rear Anti-Sway Bar | Firestone Ride-Rite Rear Airbags (5000) | Air Lift WirelessAIR On-Board Air Compressor (7200) | AMP Research Power Step | spray in bed liner | HID lights | full LED | aFePower diff. Cover | 3.0 door detent | DeeZee TGA | Retrax Pro Cover | Rugged Ridge FM | UPR Billet Emblems | aFePower 4"X12" black exhaust tip | OEM Rear Wheel Well Liners | Westin Contour bull bar | Rigid Industries D-Series D2 LED Lights | Trail Ridge Tow Mirrors | raptor grill lights | SnapRest armrest | TrailFX window vents/hood protector | 35% tint | My Build https://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/1...-counting.html


  10. #39
    Ecoboost Regular cajunfla's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by gnewby View Post
    You might check the other two tanks to see if they have any fluids in them. I think you are writing the wrong measurement here on your post as you are showing that the front wheel wheel measurement is now higher than what it was with no load on it. If so that would mean you have less weight on the front tires?
    Front wheel well is 1/4 inch higher with WDH and trailer than without. Isn't that where it should be, close to measurement without WDH and trailer?
    2018 Guard (WTH kinda name is that for a color) * F-150 XLT S/Crew 2.7 * 3.55 rear * Trailer Tow Package * 18" Hankook's * Pro Backup Assist * Tailgate Step * Running Boards * Fog Lights * stubby antenna * full BedRug * Gator Tonneau * windows tinted dark as legal in Florida *

  11. #40
    Ecoboost Regular cajunfla's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr B View Post
    Great thread! That's why I'm buying my own WDH (Andersen Hitch3350) and have all the tools BEFORE I buy my TT and set it up myself with their help (if they want to)
    Yep, had to buy a few tools today to make the WDH adjustments.
    Mr B likes this.
    2018 Guard (WTH kinda name is that for a color) * F-150 XLT S/Crew 2.7 * 3.55 rear * Trailer Tow Package * 18" Hankook's * Pro Backup Assist * Tailgate Step * Running Boards * Fog Lights * stubby antenna * full BedRug * Gator Tonneau * windows tinted dark as legal in Florida *

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