Coolant leak near turbo? - Page 11

Coolant leak near turbo?

This is a discussion on Coolant leak near turbo? within the F150 Ecoboost Problems forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; Originally Posted by DNA Dan I had my trans on a jack and removed the entire downpipe when I did this job. You can jack ...

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Thread: Coolant leak near turbo?

  1. #101
    Ecoboost Jr Member torchred's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by DNA Dan View Post
    I had my trans on a jack and removed the entire downpipe when I did this job. You can jack up the trans a little more than it is, but I wouldn't push it more than 1" or so. You have to remove the trans mount off the trans, or you will be pulling up on the down pipe. The bolts are a huge PITA. I could only get about 1/4 turn at a time on them.

    Some advice on the coolant lines - Keep the feed line off the block until you install the turbo. If this line is attached to the block, it makes it difficult to get enough leverage on it to push it into the turbo. I didn't remove the lower turbo bracket on the block, so I had to wiggle the turbo to get it into place. If that supply line is anchored in the block, the other end needs to be at the right angle or it won't slide in easily.

    I got mine all finished and buttoned up. Drives sooooo much better. I know the CR manifolds have better geometry, but I think fixing the exhaust leak has made all the difference. I can tell the turbos spool sooner because more of those gases are pushing the turbo. I bet a lot of people who complain their trucks have become sluggish have this exhaust leak issues going on. It seems to really affect the low RPM velocity on the turbos. It pulls much stronger in the low RPMs when the motor is lugging along. I am very happy with the result I am seeing so far. About a 2 MPG bump in town driving, 20 MPG on the freeway easily. This is with the Lie-o-meter and not a lot of miles yet. Keep at it, it's worth the effort!
    I got the driverside done today with my father helping. It took two of us. I ended up going in from the passenger side to remove the snap ring holding the coolant feed line on the jiffy tight. Then popped the hose off and went from down low behind the trans with a 3ft extension(if you don't have one buy one I use it all the time for my Cobra dropping the trans) and another 8-12" extension with a universal and thin walled short 19mm 12 point socket. Off it came with a little help from my hand through the passenger side to help guide it on the fitting.

    Lubed up the new fitting o-rings and threaded it in by hand then used the same extension setup with 1/2" to 3/8" adapter into a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter to the inch pound torque wrench and 159 in/lbs. That side sucked!

    Anyways all new jiffy tights and lines now. Just throwing the manifolds on now and will finish it up this week. Going to replace my accessory belts as well and looks like I have a transmission oil line to the rad leaking so I will try to get that buttoned up and then either go to the dealer for a flush or see how crappy a job it is at home to do.

    For the record I got that driverside jiffy tight out with the downpipe still in place. Trans wasn't jacked up or lowered either. If you did lower it down a bit that would help some.
    Last edited by torchred; 04-22-2019 at 11:28 AM.
    Blown F-150 likes this.

  2. #102
    Ecoboost Sr Member Lghtnfst's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Noblest View Post
    I did the CRP manifolds and GT Turbos at the same time. Believe I got the first production run of manifolds. Truck sounded crazy to what it was before.
    Turbos spool instantly. Couldn't be happier!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    What are the GT turbos? I keep seeing them mentioned but I can't seem to find any other info or where to buy them.

  3. #103
    Ecoboost Regular Noblest's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lghtnfst View Post
    What are the GT turbos? I keep seeing them mentioned but I can't seem to find any other info or where to buy them.
    Think these are em;
    https://www.stage3motorsports.com/T0...grade-Kit.html

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    SCT Livewire TS+ w/ 5*custom 93 tune / AFE CAI / AFE Blade Runner charge pipe / AFE 4" cat back / Snow Performance water/meth kit / 170 Tstat / CR Performance full bore exhaust manifolds / Full Race GT Turbos / Turbo Smart BOVs / UPR dual catch can / SP534 Plugs at .03 Some others; Hellwig sway bars / Bilstein shocks / Pro Comp add a leafs / walnut blast valves / 180k miles orig. eng. / heavy foot





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  5. #104
    Rookie coachwate's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by cr500 View Post
    Your link is for a turbo oil drain fitting on pan. Nothing to do with water.
    If you want to throw away the junk jiffy tite stuff, the thread size is 9/16-18. Just typical #6 AN size. You could make it a simple connection.
    Is this the same thread size for the turbo and head jiffy tights? How do you determine the thread size? Could you find a tool or something at Autozone or Advance to help determine this?

  6. #105
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    I don't have an answer for your question, but for the cost I'd just buy the fittings to make sure you get the right threads and sizing. The last thing you want to do is strip out the hole in the head or in the block. Those fittings are pretty cheap. Also you can see how they seal against the surface and whether or not your alternative is going to leak.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  7. #106
    Rookie coachwate's Avatar

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    I do have an update on the braided hose. I went with a 6 AN boss fitting for both the head and turbo. They fit perfectly. I got a 90 connector for the head and a straight connector for the turbo. They went on so much easier than the factory stuff. I've been running them for almost 2 weeks now and I haven't had a single problem. I did have to grind an old 11/16 wrench to tighten the turbo fitting, but that was the only issue. I've also seen almost a full mpg improvement since the fix. I haven't been driving any different but have went from 16.1 mpg to 17 on the nose.
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  8. #107
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by coachwate View Post
    I do have an update on the braided hose. I went with a 6 AN boss fitting for both the head and turbo. They fit perfectly. I got a 90 connector for the head and a straight connector for the turbo. They went on so much easier than the factory stuff. I've been running them for almost 2 weeks now and I haven't had a single problem. I did have to grind an old 11/16 wrench to tighten the turbo fitting, but that was the only issue. I've also seen almost a full mpg improvement since the fix. I haven't been driving any different but have went from 16.1 mpg to 17 on the nose.

    What type of hose did you use? Just regular steel braid? is it a special thick wall for the temperatures around the turbo?
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  9. #108
    Gold Supporting Member Blown F-150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DNA Dan View Post
    What type of hose did you use? Just regular steel braid? is it a special thick wall for the temperatures around the turbo?
    I used steel braid and added a fire sleeve. It’s held up well over the past 6 months with some pretty long/hard pulls


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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