Rookie Question: Would Eliminating Turbos Fix a Lot of Problems?

Rookie Question: Would Eliminating Turbos Fix a Lot of Problems?

This is a discussion on Rookie Question: Would Eliminating Turbos Fix a Lot of Problems? within the F150 Ecoboost Problems forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; I'm ashamed to admit that, without doing sufficient research in advance, I recently bought a 2014 XLT with the 3.5 EcoBoost engine. Now that I ...

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Thread: Rookie Question: Would Eliminating Turbos Fix a Lot of Problems?

  1. #1
    Rookie Jeff Carver's Avatar

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    Rookie Question: Would Eliminating Turbos Fix a Lot of Problems?

    I'm ashamed to admit that, without doing sufficient research in advance, I recently bought a 2014 XLT with the 3.5 EcoBoost engine. Now that I have it, I'm getting the impression that this engine isn't exactly the pinnacle of Ford automotive engineering, to say the least. I've been experiencing engine shuddering under hard acceleration, an apparently well-known phenomenon that I'd have known about if I'd read up on the engine before buying the truck. I'm by no means a mechanic -- I change oil, tires, brake pads/fluid on my cars, but that's about it -- and I'm really dreading taking the truck to the Ford dealer to find out how much I'm going to get skinned for having them fix whatever combination of issues they decide are causing the problem: spark plugs, valve gunk, intercooler crud, sensors, the turbos themselves, etc. I've read all about catch cans and oil/air separators, but after dozens of forum threads and YouTube videos on which kind to install, or whether to install one at all, or whether to drill a hole in the intercooler, my brain is officially blown (pun intended). So here's my admittedly-ignorant question: Is it feasible to "de-turbo" the engine? I don't plan on towing any large boats or trailers, so I'm not convinced that the extra power from the turbos is worth dealing with what seem to be a whole lot of turbo-related issues. If that's not doable, maybe I should just replace the engine with a rebuilt normally-aspirated engine and call it a day.

  2. #2
    Ecoboost Pro Mikedick77's Avatar

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    You're not taking the turbos off the engine. Dont believe the hype. Go ahead and change out your spark plugs for starters. Drill the drain hole. There's plenty of reading on the site. The search bar is in the upper right corner.

    Just do the maintenence, and you'll be fine. No need to reinvent the wheel with drastic, and almost impossible changes. You may as well get a new truck if you're willing to go that far.
    2013 Eco XTR 4x4 Super Crew 5.5 bed 3:31 Rear
    Stock, Weep hole, 160 degree T-Stat, Autolite Iridium XP5863 gapped properly, Castrol Magnatec 5w-30, and 93 octane
    NO OIL LEAKS!!

    Purrs like a kitten! It's called maintenence. This shouldn't surprise people.

  3. #3
    Rookie rkotara's Avatar

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    Rookie Question: Would Eliminating Turbos Fix a Lot of Problems?

    Don’t worry yourself with all that stuff. Just swap the spark plugs. Easy to do yourself with the right flexible socket extension on amazon and some anti seize. Don’t try without at least both of those. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BVSA3S8. And keep doing these every 40k with the gap posted in the forum not the one in the manual.
    Jeff Carver likes this.

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  5. #4
    Ecoboost Pro Mikedick77's Avatar

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    I've had the plugs out of my truck 6 or 7 times, never used any special tool. Regular long extension, 5/8 spark plug socket, and an 8mm socket for the coil. No anti seize either. Most plugs have a nickel coating on the plug and says not to put it on there. Only goop you'll need is the stuff you put in the coil boot before reassembly.
    B52U, bespurcell and Jeff Carver like this.
    2013 Eco XTR 4x4 Super Crew 5.5 bed 3:31 Rear
    Stock, Weep hole, 160 degree T-Stat, Autolite Iridium XP5863 gapped properly, Castrol Magnatec 5w-30, and 93 octane
    NO OIL LEAKS!!

    Purrs like a kitten! It's called maintenence. This shouldn't surprise people.

  6. #5
    Eco-Beast winchested's Avatar

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    This engine was actually and is the "pinaccle" of Ford engineering.
    Jeff Carver likes this.
    2011 XLT Screw 6.5' Box, Tux Black, 4" BDS lift, 34" BFG KO2 tires, 18x8.5" +18 XD spy Wheels, PTM oem Flares. Rampage Slimline nerf bars. 5* Tuned 87 P/T.

  7. #6
    Super Moderator mwemaxxowner's Avatar
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    Hooboy these things would suck with no turbos.

    Baaaaaaaaaaa

  8. #7
    Eco-Beast EcoXLT's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwemaxxowner View Post
    Hooboy these things would suck with no turbos.

    Baaaaaaaaaaa
    Right. Even slower then the 3.3L motor. And I bet the PCM would freak out.

  9. #8
    Rookie NekoBoost's Avatar

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    I'm no expert but have done my share of homework before and after buying my 2016 3.5.
    Best advice was from a fellow Ecoboost owner on the job site. He said "at operating temperature GOOSE the throttle, and look at the tail pipe for carbon cloud to sputter out." He said something about carbon build up on the valves due to the turbos. Didn't make sense to me so I researched. The build up is from direct injection. It's apparently common for DI engines. Normal multiport injection or carbureted flows fuel over intake valve. DI for some reason places the injector in position after intake valve spraying right into cylinder. Therefore not "washing" intake valve with fuel. Google images!
    Have to agree with an earlier response. This is Fords top motor and I love it. The 19s I read have a hybrid fuel injection. I assume sending some fuel over intake valve but mainly DI. Don't baby her let her breathe and if you see a hill give it some gas. Ford designed these motors to work! Goose it and shake that carbon loose
    Jeff Carver likes this.

  10. #9
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    If you took the turbos off the truck, it would no longer be a truck. You'd be in volkswagon territory, and I'm not talking the super new volkswagons, but a 60's beetle. The truck would also likely throw a bunch of codes. Almost everything about this motor is monitored and adjusted by a sensor of some sort.
    Jeff Carver likes this.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  11. #10
    Super Moderator mwemaxxowner's Avatar
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    Every bit of the programming in this seemingly complicated pcm is built around having boost. It would take a talented tuner to make it run I'd imagine, if it's even possible.

    Baaaaaaaaaaa

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