slip yoke bump or U joint 2013 eb 1 piece driveshaft

slip yoke bump or U joint 2013 eb 1 piece driveshaft

This is a discussion on slip yoke bump or U joint 2013 eb 1 piece driveshaft within the F150 Ecoboost Problems forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; Hi All, I apologize if this is being covered in a seperate post. I did search but didnt find anything specific. I have a 2013 ...

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Thread: slip yoke bump or U joint 2013 eb 1 piece driveshaft

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    Ecoboost Jr Member jpodraza's Avatar

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    slip yoke bump or U joint 2013 eb 1 piece driveshaft

    Hi All,

    I apologize if this is being covered in a seperate post. I did search but didnt find anything specific.
    I have a 2013 EB with a 1 piece driveshaft. Ive noticed a subtle worsening thump/hiccup/bump with acceleration from a stop for a few months now, just over PT warranty at 61k. Seemed to get worse after new tires were put on Saturday standard size 275/65/18). Matches the descriptions online. Also noticed a single chirp (like metal on metal) that coincided with the thump yesterday but not doing it today. Seems that it needs to heat up before doing it by putting a few miles on. Truck drives fine otherwise.
    I am waiting to get called in for the transmission recall to flash the system but my guess is that will do nothing.

    Based on this is there any possibility this could be the U joints? Im leaning toward dropping the DS and lubing it myself but even that is an undertaking here in buffalo with the salt and corrosion.

    Will the thump damage anything in the splin/transmission?

    Thank you Jeff

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    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    If you have 4x4, you can lube yourself. Spray some oil on the 4 bolts at the pinion a few days ahead of time. Easily drops out and you can lube the splines. However the splines get washed out with T case fluid so it doesn't last forever. The bolts tq spec is 85? I think ft lbs if i remember. I could look it up. Just use some blue locktite and tighen em down good.

    You can see if it is u joints by examining them and wiggle it while in the truck, should be no play.

    I think another thing that caused the bump, is improper driveline angles. I spent a lot of time figuring out mine and also ordered a 1 piece custon aluminum drive shaft. I credit adjusting my driveline angles fixing the bump.

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    Ecoboost Sr Member Lghtnfst's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    If you have 4x4, you can lube yourself. Spray some oil on the 4 bolts at the pinion a few days ahead of time. Easily drops out and you can lube the splines. However the splines get washed out with T case fluid so it doesn't last forever. The bolts tq spec is 85? I think ft lbs if i remember. I could look it up. Just use some blue locktite and tighen em down good.

    You can see if it is u joints by examining them and wiggle it while in the truck, should be no play.

    I think another thing that caused the bump, is improper driveline angles. I spent a lot of time figuring out mine and also ordered a 1 piece custon aluminum drive shaft. I credit adjusting my driveline angles fixing the bump.
    i've lubed mine twice over the past couple years with just basic grease. What do you recommend using?

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    jgb
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    I am about to grease my driveshaft, ford makes a special lithium based grease for this issue...hopefully it will last longer then regular grease. I bought a tube off or e-bay, amazon also has it.Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant

    noodles likes this.

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    Eco-Beast noodles's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    If you have 4x4, you can lube yourself. Spray some oil on the 4 bolts at the pinion a few days ahead of time. Easily drops out and you can lube the splines. However the splines get washed out with T case fluid so it doesn't last forever. The bolts tq spec is 85? I think ft lbs if i remember. I could look it up. Just use some blue locktite and tighen em down good.

    You can see if it is u joints by examining them and wiggle it while in the truck, should be no play.

    I think another thing that caused the bump, is improper driveline angles. I spent a lot of time figuring out mine and also ordered a 1 piece custon aluminum drive shaft. I credit adjusting my driveline angles fixing the bump.
    On a one piece shaft the driveshaft angles are not that important since they are always split 50/50 front to rear.
    13 SuperCrew Ruby Red 302A, 4x4 6.5 box, 3.31, Roush 22's. Twin catch cans, "leveled" with Bilsteins (-2 front, -3 rear), AirLift, SCT. Other's may have displacement on demand... I have an endless supply of torque at my right foot's demand.


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    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by noodles View Post
    On a one piece shaft the driveshaft angles are not that important since they are always split 50/50 front to rear.
    I disagree. The front working angle and the rear need to be equal and opposite under load. A leaf spring vehicle has a lot of pinion angle built due to it dramatically changing under WOT and in our case, if the bed is loaded and what not. I believe most of the vibrations people experience are due to bad angles aka too much pinion under normal driving considerations.

    I have mine set now, with traction bars so this is different because the pinion doesn't move a lot, the front angle is -1 degree (which i had nothing on my end of changing, that is factory) and I set the rear at + 2.5, so the working angle is 1.5 degree between the two. I am figuring even with traction bars, the pinion might move another .5 under load. As long as the working angle is less than 2, you should be good. I could probably make it 3 degree, which would add to 1 degree difference and it be better but this is good for now and there is very minimal harmonic vibration driving now, where as before it was very noticeable, especially at 70+ mph.

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    Eco-Beast noodles's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    I disagree. The front working angle and the rear need to be equal and opposite under load. A leaf spring vehicle has a lot of pinion angle built due to it dramatically changing under WOT and in our case, if the bed is loaded and what not. I believe most of the vibrations people experience are due to bad angles aka too much pinion under normal driving considerations.

    I have mine set now, with traction bars so this is different because the pinion doesn't move a lot, the front angle is -1 degree (which i had nothing on my end of changing, that is factory) and I set the rear at + 2.5, so the working angle is 1.5 degree between the two. I am figuring even with traction bars, the pinion might move another .5 under load. As long as the working angle is less than 2, you should be good. I could probably make it 3 degree, which would add to 1 degree difference and it be better but this is good for now and there is very minimal harmonic vibration driving now, where as before it was very noticeable, especially at 70+ mph.
    You have 2 connection places with a one piece shaft. Both angles will always be split 50/50 regardless of suspension travel. It's a non issue.
    2 piece shaft is a different story because that's when you get indifferent angles between the front and rear due to having a middle point.
    13 SuperCrew Ruby Red 302A, 4x4 6.5 box, 3.31, Roush 22's. Twin catch cans, "leveled" with Bilsteins (-2 front, -3 rear), AirLift, SCT. Other's may have displacement on demand... I have an endless supply of torque at my right foot's demand.


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    Ecoboost Jr Member jpodraza's Avatar

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    I appreciate the responses...Thanks.
    I think when it warms up a bit more Ill start spraying PB blaster on the bolts a few days before hand and that should help with the corrosion. I saw a few videos that recommend using a white ford grease with Teflon specifically for this, probably what was mentioned above. I think I will leave the angles alone as it was fine until a few months ago Im guessing it just started binding up.
    now the only other issue is teh stupid phaser noise which was already fixed but still intermittently happens....I have 2K more miles on teh repair warranty from the dealer which was the full tsb.

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    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by noodles View Post
    You have 2 connection places with a one piece shaft. Both angles will always be split 50/50 regardless of suspension travel. It's a non issue.
    Both angles are not split 50/50 no matter what? An example If the front is 1 and the rear is -7, parked. While driving, you will have severe vibration because under load the pinion will lift some, lets say 1 and -5 it would measure, which is too much angle to safely operate at. So what I am saying, the angles stock from Ford is wrong.

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    Eco-Beast noodles's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    Both angles are not split 50/50 no matter what? An example If the front is 1 and the rear is -7, parked. While driving, you will have severe vibration because under load the pinion will lift some, lets say 1 and -5 it would measure, which is too much angle to safely operate at. So what I am saying, the angles stock from Ford is wrong.
    Maybe I can explain better... the working angle of the joints will be split 50/50 regardless of suspension travel... You shouldn't have vibrations due to angles until you reach a point of the U-joints binding.
    13 SuperCrew Ruby Red 302A, 4x4 6.5 box, 3.31, Roush 22's. Twin catch cans, "leveled" with Bilsteins (-2 front, -3 rear), AirLift, SCT. Other's may have displacement on demand... I have an endless supply of torque at my right foot's demand.


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