Bad Turbo, what do you think? - Page 5

Bad Turbo, what do you think?

This is a discussion on Bad Turbo, what do you think? within the F150 Ecoboost Problems forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; I just followed the instructions that CRP sent with the manifolds. You need to have a 1/4" deep socket for the nuts, so the walls ...

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  1. #41
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    I just followed the instructions that CRP sent with the manifolds. You need to have a 1/4" deep socket for the nuts, so the walls of the sockets are thin. The manifolds are beefy around where the nuts screw on and it's difficult to keep the socket on the nut once they start seating. I ended up trying a few different chinese knockoffs at an auto parts store. I still had one that gave me issues and needed to use a crow's foot on it. Welcome to the CRP club!
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  2. #42
    Eco-Beast mass-hole's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by DNA Dan View Post
    I just followed the instructions that CRP sent with the manifolds. You need to have a 1/4" deep socket for the nuts, so the walls of the sockets are thin. The manifolds are beefy around where the nuts screw on and it's difficult to keep the socket on the nut once they start seating. I ended up trying a few different chinese knockoffs at an auto parts store. I still had one that gave me issues and needed to use a crow's foot on it. Welcome to the CRP club!
    You werent kidding. Even my 1/4” drive 13mm barely fit. I had to use a hammer to tap it onto a couple of the nuts.
    Envious likes this.
    2014 Lariat Screw, 157", Max Tow, 502A - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, CRP Manifolds, RX Catch Can, Bilstein 5100, AirLift RideControl, 275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD(diesel) - GDE Tune, Straight piped, AFE filter, GTB2060 custom build turbo, 2.5" Lift, ARB bumper, 4.10's, Detroit Truetracs F/R

  3. #43
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    There was some slight play between the holes in the manifold and the stud, so I positioned the manifold so that the problem studs were further away from the point at which they were binding. If that makes sense. Crazy how precise those need to be milled to account for all the variation in these trucks.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

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  5. #44
    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    I am glad I saw this, I will be doing the CR manifolds shortly.

  6. #45
    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    Related to broken stud, I am definitely thinking breaking the nuts and stuff why the engine is still warm will help prevent this.

  7. #46
    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    Can you guys provide a list of all the tools and sockets required for the C manifolds?,including new studs and gasket install? Thank you!

    Edit, i cant be stopped when doing the install so I want to get everything ill need pre install.

  8. #47
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    On mine I dropped the downpipe because I changed all the O2 sensors and I wanted to have more room in there to remove the turbos. I believe it's possible however to pull the turbos without removing the downpipe. If you to the downpipe, the biggest pain was the bracket at the transmission. Also, remove both front wheels and wheel well liners. It makes the job a lot easier. I taped up all the wiring out of the way so I had a direct opening to the area.

    The tools I used most;
    -A universal 3/8" joint (These can break, so I would have 2 on hand.)
    -Lots of 3/8" extensions (up to 24")

    Special tools:

    - The stud remover tool for changing the studs on the turbo. (I could not get mine out without the tool.)
    - Blowtorch
    - The thin walled deep socket for the manifold stud nuts. (Typically 1/4" socket, may have to try different brands.)
    - To get the studs torqued, you need to put a socket on the end of the stud. It's ridiculously small like 4-5mm or something.
    - The torx bit for the oil pipe, turbo mounting bolts, coolant line bracket.

    I bought this kit, which is pretty inclusive of the torx sizes you'll need, comes with a rachet and an extension:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    - If you're removing the oil feed fitting in the block, I needed a large allen wrench socket to get the old one off.
    - It also helps to have a set of crows feet in case you can't get on a bolt directly.
    - A pick or very thin bladed flat screwdriver for removing the clips on the coolant fittings. (I bought the removal tool, but it just doesn't work very well. It's much easier to find the back of the clip, insert a screwdriver and give it a twist.)
    - A breaker bar

    Things to really watch for:
    - Making sure to not bend turbo oil/coolant lines. If something doesn't want to go, don't force it. Come at it from a different angle.
    - Follow the oil pipe installation in the service manual very strictly. (I had issues with this leaking on me at the turbo. I think reusing the pipe was a bad idea because once I installed the new exhaust manifold, the turbo was in a slighty different place. So I had to go back in and replace the pipe. Also, you can't have dirty oil or any debris on the mating surfaces for this gasket, because it won't seal properly. Going back to add more torque on the bolt would not stop the leak, it made it worse. So definitely don't over-torque the bolts here.)
    - When working through the wheel well, watch you don't crush the IWE lines or put pressure on the caliper hose. ( I put a towel over the whole rotor and knuckle to keep dirt out.)

    Other than the oil pipe leaking on me, I didn't have many problems with removal and installation. Just take your time and plan on the truck being out for a few days. I would not recommend doing this in a single day.

    Parts used: (The only thing I would do differently is just replace the oil pipes entirely. They come with the o-ring so if replacing you don't need this part. Also, the jiffy fitting for the back of the head is included in the list, but I could not reach these easily, so I didn't replace these. I got the exhaust manifold gaskets and studs/nuts with my CRP manifold during their March promotion, so they are not in the list either.)
    Filter, RIGHT BL3Z-6L625-F 1
    Filter, LEFT BL3Z-6L625-G 1
    Oil Pipe O-Ring, RIGHT AA5Z-00815-B 2
    Oil Pipe Bolt, RIGHT -W716088-S900 4
    Connector - Oil Tube BL3Z-6A968-B 2
    Connector - Oil Tube BL3Z-6A968-JD 2
    Connector - Oil Tube BL3Z-6A968-C 4
    Catalytic Converter Gasket, RIGHT BL3Z-9450-A 2
    Catalytic Converter Stud, LEFT -W716667-S900 4
    Catalytic Converter Nut, RIGHT -W520514-S440 4
    Front Pipe Bolt, LEFT -W714717-S439 2
    Turbocharger Bolt w715673s900 6
    Oil Pipe Gasket, RIGHT BL3Z-6N652-B Qty. 2
    Turbocharger Gasket, RIGHT BL3Z-9450-B Qty. 1
    Turbocharger Gasket, LEFT BL3Z-9450-C Qty. 1
    Last edited by DNA Dan; 06-04-2019 at 11:50 AM. Reason: Added parts list
    Blown F-150 and Noblest like this.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  9. #48
    Gold Supporting Member snakebitten's Avatar
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    Dang Dan, that's an incredible post.

    Thoughtful too.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    2018 KingRanch Kingsville Edition- Gen2 3.5 - Runs SO good on Factory tunes. Simply amazing. Good Job Ford

  10. #49
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    Related to broken stud, I am definitely thinking breaking the nuts and stuff why the engine is still warm will help prevent this.
    If the nut is seized on there, it will simply unscrew from the head. Mine were not tight at all. The bigger pain is removing the downpipe flange nuts off the turbo. If the truck is still warm, this may be an issue dealing with the exhaust side. Hit everything with penetrating oil a coupld times, a few days beforehand.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  11. #50
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by snakebitten View Post
    Dang Dan, that's an incredible post.

    Thoughtful too.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Thanks! Just trying to contribute to the body of knowledge here. (Also I'm still coming off the pride from successfully getting these on the truck myself! Each one of these upgrades/fixes is a journey in and of itself.)
    snakebitten and Envious like this.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

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