Bad Turbo, what do you think? - Page 6

Bad Turbo, what do you think?

This is a discussion on Bad Turbo, what do you think? within the F150 Ecoboost Problems forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; I’ve done a few turbo swaps now and have gotten lazy when it comes to the downpipes. I just undo the nuts on the adapters ...

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  1. #51
    Gold Supporting Member Blown F-150's Avatar
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    I’ve done a few turbo swaps now and have gotten lazy when it comes to the downpipes. I just undo the nuts on the adapters and then crawl under the truck. I place my foot on the frontside of the muffler and give’er a good boot. The whole assembly slides back and gives you some clearance to mess with the turbos.




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    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Had I known you could get at the front O2 sensors through the wheel wells with the proper wrench, I probably would have left them in place. I definitely recommend the "boot method". Nothing like laying on your back trying to wrestle 75+ pounds overhead while aligning two ends of a y-pipe going in different directions.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

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    Bad Turbo, what do you think?

    Quote Originally Posted by DNA Dan View Post
    If the nut is seized on there, it will simply unscrew from the head. Mine were not tight at all. The bigger pain is removing the downpipe flange nuts off the turbo. If the truck is still warm, this may be an issue dealing with the exhaust side. Hit everything with penetrating oil a coupld times, a few days beforehand.
    This. The nuts came off no problem after sitting for 15 minutes in PB blaster. I think 4 studs total came out with the nuts. The remaining studs also removed with no trouble. This is with 70k miles and salty winters.

    Even the broken stud came out no problem with a double nut:

    Last edited by mass-hole; 06-04-2019 at 12:17 PM.
    Blown F-150 likes this.
    2014 Lariat Screw, 157", Max Tow, 502A - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, CRP Manifolds, RX Catch Can, Bilstein 5100, AirLift RideControl, 275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD(diesel) - GDE Tune, Straight piped, AFE filter, GTB2060 custom build turbo, 2.5" Lift, ARB bumper, 4.10's, Detroit Truetracs F/R

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  5. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown F-150 View Post
    I’ve done a few turbo swaps now and have gotten lazy when it comes to the downpipes. I just undo the nuts on the adapters and then crawl under the truck. I place my foot on the frontside of the muffler and give’er a good boot. The whole assembly slides back and gives you some clearance to mess with the turbos.

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    Yeah **** the down pipes. I should have done this since I pulled the turbos out the top anyways. I swear to god the bolts under the truck were all tightened by the incredible hulk and I had to use my extension on a bunch of them. Spent way to much time just getting the downpipes off.
    2014 Lariat Screw, 157", Max Tow, 502A - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, CRP Manifolds, RX Catch Can, Bilstein 5100, AirLift RideControl, 275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD(diesel) - GDE Tune, Straight piped, AFE filter, GTB2060 custom build turbo, 2.5" Lift, ARB bumper, 4.10's, Detroit Truetracs F/R

  6. #55
    Eco-Beast WooBoost's Avatar

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    I watched a video on turbo install on youtube, he didnt remove the downpipe? You unbolt it obviously at the turbo but you don't have to actually remove it from the hangers underneath and stuff do you?

  7. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    I watched a video on turbo install on youtube, he didnt remove the downpipe? You unbolt it obviously at the turbo but you don't have to actually remove it from the hangers underneath and stuff do you?
    If you follow the CRP instructions they tell you too. You gotta drop the trans cross memeber and remove the trans mount from the transmission to get the crossover pipe free. If you didnt have to do this and didnt have to unplug the O2 sensors it would save you a **** load of time
    2014 Lariat Screw, 157", Max Tow, 502A - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, CRP Manifolds, RX Catch Can, Bilstein 5100, AirLift RideControl, 275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD(diesel) - GDE Tune, Straight piped, AFE filter, GTB2060 custom build turbo, 2.5" Lift, ARB bumper, 4.10's, Detroit Truetracs F/R

  8. #57
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    I watched a video on turbo install on youtube, he didnt remove the downpipe? You unbolt it obviously at the turbo but you don't have to actually remove it from the hangers underneath and stuff do you?
    I have pulled the driver's side turbo without taking the downpipe off the hangers. The challenge is there is a 4th mounting bolt for the turbo "behind" the turbo. It's not just hanging there on the exhaust manifold by the 3 bolts you can easily see. This 4th bolt is attached to a bracket which is furthermore attached to the head. From what I recall, the service manual has you snug the turbo to the bracket, then the bracket to the head. In that order. I assume this makes sure there is no binding or stress at the turbo mounting point. Problem is, it's difficult to torque that bracket down to the head with the exhaust pipe in place. It seemed like some of the steps in the manual were backwards or out of place, because I could not get at some of the bracket bolts by torquing the turbo to it first.

    Try it first without taking it off the hangers. It will save a few hours easily. You could always bite the bullet and lower it if it's in your way.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

  9. #58
    Eco-Beast mass-hole's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by DNA Dan View Post
    I have pulled the driver's side turbo without taking the downpipe off the hangers. The challenge is there is a 4th mounting bolt for the turbo "behind" the turbo. It's not just hanging there on the exhaust manifold by the 3 bolts you can easily see. This 4th bolt is attached to a bracket which is furthermore attached to the head. From what I recall, the service manual has you snug the turbo to the bracket, then the bracket to the head. In that order. I assume this makes sure there is no binding or stress at the turbo mounting point. Problem is, it's difficult to torque that bracket down to the head with the exhaust pipe in place. It seemed like some of the steps in the manual were backwards or out of place, because I could not get at some of the bracket bolts by torquing the turbo to it first.

    Try it first without taking it off the hangers. It will save a few hours easily. You could always bite the bullet and lower it if it's in your way.
    I saw reference to these 4th bolts in the CRP installation guide, but I think they may have gone away in 2013. Mine certainly did not have them so I suspect any trucks with the 13'+ turbos don't.

    As far as the turbos go, I was able to pull both out the top anyways. The passenger side is tight and I actually pulled it out after I removed the stock manifold, and then put it back in resting down on the side of the transmission before putting the CRP mani's in. So the turbo was just sitting down below the manifold while I was torquing the nuts on the mani.
    2014 Lariat Screw, 157", Max Tow, 502A - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, CRP Manifolds, RX Catch Can, Bilstein 5100, AirLift RideControl, 275/60R20 Wrangler Duratracs

    2006 Jeep Liberty CRD(diesel) - GDE Tune, Straight piped, AFE filter, GTB2060 custom build turbo, 2.5" Lift, ARB bumper, 4.10's, Detroit Truetracs F/R

  10. #59
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    Theres no way i am pulling that and the cross memeber(really?) unless I absolutely have to....we will see when **** starts coming apart.

  11. #60
    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by mass-hole View Post
    I saw reference to these 4th bolts in the CRP installation guide, but I think they may have gone away in 2013. Mine certainly did not have them so I suspect any trucks with the 13'+ turbos don't.
    Lucky dog. Figures the year truck I bought has the most difficult to assemble setup!

    Quote Originally Posted by WooBoost View Post
    Theres no way i am pulling that and the cross memeber(really?) unless I absolutely have to....we will see when **** starts coming apart.
    Mine was slightly bent from the prior owner hitting something, so the bolt holes were misaligned. Took a 30" breaker bar, 10 lb sledge, a crowbar and lots of sweat to get the bolts out. I thought for sure I was going to snap a bolt. Not fun at all.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Firestone Air bags.

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