Oil feed/return line question.

Oil feed/return line question.

This is a discussion on Oil feed/return line question. within the F150 Ecoboost Problems forums, part of the F150 Ecoboost Forum category; New here, like brand new. New to forums also. Anyways.. I have a 2014 EcoBoost with 214,XXX miles on it. I bought the truck with ...

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Thread: Oil feed/return line question.

  1. #1
    Rookie DieselTech's Avatar

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    Oil feed/return line question.

    New here, like brand new. New to forums also. Anyways.. I have a 2014 EcoBoost with 214,XXX miles on it. I bought the truck with 90k on it and have been driving the hell outta it.
    A few weeks ago I started getting a howl as it would start to spool up going down the road. Then a tin, kazoo bit of noise, lack of power, but no smoke. I listened to each turbo and determined that my left side (Driver side) was the noise maker. I replaced it with an OEM reman. All was well, and figured it was the culprit because the wastegate was seized shut.
    A few days later I started getting the same noise again. Had a low boost code (didn't write down number), transmission was constantly hunting for a gear to maintain speed, dropping gears and hitting 3,000 rpm to maintain 65 mph. Then I started getting some blue smoke (obviously engine oil burning).
    Long story, I apologize.
    Last night I was messing around at home and noticed that when in park, running the idle up to 2500, it would send out endless amounts of white/gray smoke.
    End of story, turbo on right side finished itself off on the highway this morning, and apparently got hot enough to (unknown to me at the time) melt the solder from the oil feed line to it's plate.
    Question in all of this is, has anyone ever replaced this line? How much of an assache is it? It looks like it disappears down the block headed forward. Any help or tips before I tackle this would be greatly appreciated!
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    Gold Supporting Member snakebitten's Avatar
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    First of all WELCOME!

    Second, I love hearing someone tell us they bought their Ecoboost with 90 THOUSAND miles on it, and then report it now as 200PLUS! And then if that's not good enough news, you openly declare that the second 100,000 miles weren't easy ones either. "Driving the hell out of it"!!!

    That's so cool.

    I'm far from the best diagnoser around here (there are some really good ones sure to show up) but needing new turbos on BOTH sides wouldn't be unexpected to me at that mileage. As for the noise you describe, it immediately makes me think exhaust manifold. Far more common for them to not last as long as the turbos.

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    Rookie DieselTech's Avatar

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    Thank you for the welcome!
    I plan on finishing the repair tomorrow.
    I can tell you that the miles I have put on this truck have not been easy ones!
    I bought this truck as a cheap, post divorce vehicle. After going from a well done up 2500 Long Horn Cummins. I honestly cannot say anything bad about it. I have rarely changed the oil on time and have done almost nothing to it since owning it. Brakes (pads and rotors all around), tires, engine belt, oil changes.
    Until now. That's all though.
    Prior to left side turbo replacement it would chuff? Best word to describe it, under load it would surge, chuff, chug maybe? With RPMs following suit. Not sure what that was, but wastegate was 100 seized shut...

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    Oil feed/return line question.

    Quote Originally Posted by DieselTech View Post
    Thank you for the welcome!
    I plan on finishing the repair tomorrow.
    I can tell you that the miles I have put on this truck have not been easy ones!
    I bought this truck as a cheap, post divorce vehicle. After going from a well done up 2500 Long Horn Cummins. I honestly cannot say anything bad about it. I have rarely changed the oil on time and have done almost nothing to it since owning it. Brakes (pads and rotors all around), tires, engine belt, oil changes.
    Until now. That's all though.
    Prior to left side turbo replacement it would chuff? Best word to describe it, under load it would surge, chuff, chug maybe? With RPMs following suit. Not sure what that was, but wastegate was 100 seized shut...
    Have you checked to BOV? The diaphragm seems to tear a lot causing them to leak. Might be worth a check to make sure its not causing your turbos to overwork by
    Last edited by mass-hole; 05-15-2019 at 08:34 PM.
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    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    I just replaced the driver's side on mine. If this is your first rodeo with this, there's a few things to watch.

    1- I'd replace the supply fittings that go into the block for both the oil and the coolant.
    2- i replaced the coolant supply line.
    3- Make sure the supply and drain ends are inserted but NOT bolted down. Connect the tube at the turbo and torque these bolts FIRST. Make sure both surfaces are very clean. Don't over torque the gasket. Then torque the other ends of the tubes to the block. Use a little grease on the jiffy fittings so the tubes slide in easily. Make sure they are seated all the way past the ring clip.
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    Rookie grinder282's Avatar

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    Recently replaced the oil supply on my driver side of my 2012 XLT along with the
    Manifold, manifold gasket, turbo-maniflod gasket pretty much everything BUT the turbo. The most difficult part about the oil supply if it is the same is getting the rigid flex line aligned. I also had the kazoo sound and it turned out to be the manifold-turbo gasket.

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    Ecoboost Master Envious's Avatar

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    The hardest part of the passenger side turbo is the coolant feed tube. I had to use a shoe string lol
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    Ecoboost Pro DNA Dan's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Envious View Post
    The hardest part of the passenger side turbo is the coolant feed tube. I had to use a shoe string lol
    Definitely need to move the AC pump out of the way. Then I also found if you install the coolant supply line to the turbo before you bolt it into place, it's easier to ensure that the line is fully seated.
    2012 SCREW Eco FX4 Tuxedo Black, Fully loaded, Max Tow, 3.73 rear.
    ARE Z-Series topper w/Yakima rack, Bilstein 5100's, StopTech Sport brakes, BFG T/A KO2 on stock rims, RXP Catch can w/UPR check valves, FR Gen 2 Radiator, Saudi Trans cooler, CR Performance Engineering exhaust manifolds, Rear blocks removed, Firestone Air bags.

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    Ecoboost Master Envious's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by DNA Dan View Post
    Definitely need to move the AC pump out of the way. Then I also found if you install the coolant supply line to the turbo before you bolt it into place, it's easier to ensure that the line is fully seated.
    Yeah I was behind and needed my truck asap but I got it done. Looped the shoelace around the tip of the coolant line and got the turbo in place. Looped the shoestring over top of the turbo and got it fully seated

    If it's stupid but it works.. it still is a lil stupid.
    Last edited by Envious; 05-17-2019 at 07:49 AM.
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