4H in the 1/4 mile? - Page 2

4H in the 1/4 mile?

This is a discussion on 4H in the 1/4 mile? within the 2nd Gen F150 Ecoboost forums, part of the 2nd Gen F150 Ecoboost Forum (2015+) category; Originally Posted by VegasFX4 So I've been gathering info on turning up my 2018 3.5. I have been racing Mustangs since 1997, and one thing ...

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Thread: 4H in the 1/4 mile?

  1. #11
    Eco-Beast noodles's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by VegasFX4 View Post
    So I've been gathering info on turning up my 2018 3.5. I have been racing Mustangs since 1997, and one thing I ALWAYS do is run it down the 1/4 before and after ANY mods. To me there is no thicker pudding than the 1/4 mile. I'm planning to go run my truck to get a baseline and I have some questions.

    I've seen many videos of people launching the truck in 4H.

    Are they shifting back to 2H mid run? Or are they doing nearly 100 MPH in 4 wheel drive.

    I ask because older trucks had a max speed of around 50 MPH in 4 wheel drive.

    I don't want to break my truck...

    Thanks!
    4H all the way. Switch it back when you've completed your pass (off throttle).
    Like has been mentioned, it won't switch while under load, and it wouldn't be pretty if it attempted to switch during a gear change.
    VegasFX4 likes this.
    13 SuperCrew Ruby Red 302A, 4x4 6.5 box, 3.31, Roush 22's. Twin catch cans, "leveled" with Bilsteins (-2 front, -3 rear), AirLift, SCT. Other's may have displacement on demand... I have an endless supply of torque at my right foot's demand.


  2. #12
    Eco-Beast noodles's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by magyar86 View Post
    Most people shift it back to 2h after launch from what I’ve seen/heard.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've never seen/heard of anyone switching to 2wd during a pass.
    VegasFX4 likes this.
    13 SuperCrew Ruby Red 302A, 4x4 6.5 box, 3.31, Roush 22's. Twin catch cans, "leveled" with Bilsteins (-2 front, -3 rear), AirLift, SCT. Other's may have displacement on demand... I have an endless supply of torque at my right foot's demand.


  3. #13
    Ecoboost Regular VegasFX4's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryuske View Post
    I've thoroughly beat on my truck in the last couple years I've owned it. It is a 2016 3.5 Ecoboost (not a raptor rofl), I bought it with 20k miles New Years Eve 2016. The truck now has 125k+ miles, and I'm extremely hard on my truck 80% of the time I drive it.

    I've launched it in 4H on the stall probably over 40 times. I've tried shifting back into 2WD during the run, the truck according to the lights does it, though I've never noticed a difference in time slips (I have taken the truck to the drag strip, you can find my post here with more details). My truck is pretty much 100% stock at the moment, and I'll finish the 1/4 around 93-97MPH.

    That was a lot of background, BUT, the reason I say all of that is to explain the things I've broken over the years:

    I broke the throttle body (the plate & shaft had all kinds of play and would hit the wall), though the new one was a different design slightly, so it may have been a Ford thing. Or, it could have been me being hard on it and not having an aftermarket high-quality BOV, not too sure.

    My passenger side end tank in the intercooler got a crack in it. This was likely due to me hitting some trees while driving 70+ (slowing down to about 40 before impact) off-road. The only things damaged were the intercooler & a small dent in the hood.

    The drivers side turbo got a tiny bit of shaft play in it, likely from the boost leak in the IC, which was there for about 6 months before I replaced the intercooler.

    Both rear lower exhaust manifold bolts are broken. May be a result of the tree experience (though not an immediate result), or a result of me racing the truck up mountain passes and overheating the exhaust. Couldn't tell you exactly, also not 100% sure exactly when they broke.

    I squished the upper rubber bushing in the transmission crossmember mount out. Likely a result of 40+ 4H launches.

    I had to replace my drivers side IWE ring & the IWE check valve. The check valve went bad and I ignored it for a few months. By the time I figured out it was the check valve and replaced it (all of $4 :/) the IWE ring was smoked. So, the check valve is cause it's a ****ty valve, the ring is my own negligence.

    That is literally everything I've broken & had to replace. I've done nothing special to the truck, and not even done awesome maintenance. I replace the oil every 10k miles, I've replaced the air filter once. I've never done spark plugs, nor have I ever replaced the trans oil or diff fluids (though it definitely needs to be done now). I've drifted my truck, run it hard off-road, taken to the drag strip, driven it at 105 (top speed) for 30+ consecutive minutes, raced it up mountain passes, etc. The odds of you ever being harder overall on your truck than I am is extremely unlikely. The only thing I've never really done is jumped it. It happens occasionally when I'm off-roading, but never huge air or anything like that. Though I've definitely bottomed out the suspension.

    Overall, the trucks are amazingly reliable/sturdy. I've spent less than $1,000 fixing stuff over 100,000+ miles with me driving it as described. I've also towed with it, and driven it across the country. Yours is a little newer and I don't know the differences, but my 2016 with the 6spd transmission is truly amazing.

    And since you're interested in drag racing, the biggest issue I have with it is that it isn't consistent. There can be a 1.5 second difference between two 1/4 mile runs in the same night. I suspect this is due to the plastic endtanks heat soaking, but I'm not totally sure. I'm getting ready to start upgrading the truck and if I figure out how to make it more consistent I'll report back haha. On a good run it's fast though, best time is 14.1 at a super high elevation. Also, I don't even have a tuner, so this is all stock tune stuff. With a tuner I bet you could get more consistency as well.
    Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

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  5. #14
    Ecoboost Regular biglipps66's Avatar

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    The more you mod, the more you'll want to leave it in 4H. This is my truck, struggling with traction when I smash it at 75+MPH (tires hot to 38 by then)

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  6. #15
    Ecoboost Regular VegasFX4's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by biglipps66 View Post
    The more you mod, the more you'll want to leave it in 4H. This is my truck, struggling with traction when I smash it at 75+MPH (tires hot to 38 by then)

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    Sounds/looks fun!

  7. #16
    Ecoboost Master GearHead_1's Avatar

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    Lock the diff (it will unlock by itself at speed), turn the traction control off, put it in 4H and leave it there until you’re at the end of the track. Unlock the diff and put it in 2H. Easy peasy.
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  8. #17
    Ecoboost Jr Member JDenham's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead_1 View Post
    Lock the diff (it will unlock by itself at speed), turn the traction control off, put it in 4H and leave it there until you’re at the end of the track. Unlock the diff and put it in 2H. Easy peasy.
    Do you switch to 4H while in drive ? I just bought my truck and haven’t switched to 4H yet 🤫

  9. #18
    Super Moderator Purefection's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDenham View Post
    Do you switch to 4H while in drive ? I just bought my truck and haven’t switched to 4H yet 🤫
    Yes you do it in drive

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  10. #19
    Ecoboost Pro AllWhiteEco's Avatar

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    Don’t forget to roll the truck a few feet to make sure 4WD is fully engaged before sending it off the line.


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    snakebitten, noodles and milesej05 like this.
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  11. #20
    Ecoboost Jr Member JDenham's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by AllWhiteEco View Post
    Don’t forget to roll the truck a few feet to make sure 4WD is fully engaged before sending it off the line.


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    Good idea

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