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I think again as it has been stated....the #1 deal is to have your WDH dialed in and add a sway control bar if you can swing it. The rest is just icing on the cake so to speak
I have a basic Husky setup-works great.
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If I buy a new and heavier RV, I'm chasing down meaz (camping on the way) and taking him for a steak dinner AFTER he sets my WDH, airbags, and trailer packing up.

I'm just saying

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Discussion Starter #23
I don't mean the spring bars, I mean a separate friction sway bar. I think with the NEW a bracket has to be welded on to add the ball to use one. The e2 doesn't have the spring loaded detents in the head like the e4 to offer extra sway control. Attached is a sway bar like some folks use. My hitch has sway control built in. If your weight is distributed right it's probably not necessary, but might be as or more effective than truck mods we've mentioned here.


How do your wheel well heights (measured from the ground) compare between loaded heights and unloaded?

With the hitch adjusted to the trailer as you load it, I bet things will be much better.



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Not sure we are talking about the same e2 WDH. Fastway doesn't list an e4 WDH.
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We are. The e4 is the "equal I zer". The e4 is an updated version of the e2.

I forget the exact history there. The e2 rights were sold off to Fastway or something like that.


The e2 has 2 points of sway control (the solid bar resting on the L brackets). The e4 or the "equal I zer" has 4 points of sway control. Those same 2, plus spring loaded detents in the hitch head.

The e2 should offer more sway resistance than a typical chain bar wdh, but the goal is to be set up well enough no sway occurs to have to tame anyway.

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Discussion Starter #25
cut n paste from Fastway website ......
For the best and safest towing experience, you need the e2™ hitch, providing you with faster and easier weight distribution and sway control.
The e2™ hitch gives you faster and easier sway control and weight distribution without the hassle of chains or add-on sway bars. With its built-in sway control, the e2 hitch has no backing, turning, or weather restrictions - when you need sway control the most. Its rigid brackets give you permanent sway control for smarter, safer towing.
 

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Yes, as I said the e2 offers 2 points of sway control, the e4 offers 4. The equalizer is more or less an updated e2.

There's nothing wrong with your hitch, we just need to see to it that it's set up right and go from there.

After a little googling, they are both made by progress manufacturing. The e2 is branded as the Fastway, the e4 is branded as the Equalizer. The Equal I Zer is not officially named e4 in any of the literature, but they are often referred to as the e2 and the e4 for short online, and at dealerships.


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So i am totally making this up based on observation, but having a 4 point sway control is a lot better than the friction sway control deals. I think this because the friction sway control acts like the shock absorber on your rear axle, it only resists the movement of the trailer, just like a shock resists the movement of the axle while the spring actually supports the weight. If you’re trailer gets pushed sideways by a gust of wind, the friction sway bar is only resisting the trailer as it moves, but once the trailer angles out of line with the truck and stops going any farther, the friction sway does nothing.

A 4 point sway control is actively using the spring bars to resist the trailers misalignment with the truck. If the same cross wind hits the trailer, the spring bar is like, no! It pushes back on the trailer. The farther the trailer pushes, the more the bars resist and wanna push the trailer back in line with the truck.
 

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That's kind of what I was trying to get at. If, for some reason after dialing in the weight distribution on the trailer, if there is still an uncomfortable sway issue, I'd be inclined to throw money at a better hitch (possibly) than truck mods that may or may not help.

The e2 could be sold to fund a large portion of a new equalizer or Curt True-Track (nearly the same hitch but a little cheaper-and it's what I run) and the net cost would be less than most of the mods we've discussed throwing at the truck.

I think with some attention to dialing in what he's got it'll be fine as is.


But, on the other hand, the friction doohickies can be tried for almost no $$$.
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I’m with everyone here I think. I took the long road to a simple fix myself at first though. Went from a stock truck that swayed to one with e rated tires leveled bagged and 5100’s and still swayed and had too firm a ride when unloaded. Long story shorter, #1 revisit your Wd setup, take your time and make sure it’s setup properly. I run a similar setup “husky” and the thing works wonderfully when setup right. #2 which will help ride of the truck empty too is a good set of shocks front and rear. Everyone here seems to love the 5100 and I agree it’s a great shock at a decent price point, that will help a lot with porpoise issues as stock shocks suck. All said and done I wasted money on a set of bags that I didn’t like and really don’t need all because my hitch wasn’t setup to do what it’s designed to do.


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As far as things like tires and shocks, no doubt they will help to some degree. I like to upgrade things like that when they wear out. I may go to XL P rated tires when these current ones are worn out, and it's time for shocks now at 80k.

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I’m with everyone here I think. I took the long road to a simple fix myself at first though. Went from a stock truck that swayed to one with e rated tires leveled bagged and 5100’s and still swayed and had too firm a ride when unloaded. Long story shorter, #1 revisit your Wd setup, take your time and make sure it’s setup properly. I run a similar setup “husky” and the thing works wonderfully when setup right. #2 which will help ride of the truck empty too is a good set of shocks front and rear. Everyone here seems to love the 5100 and I agree it’s a great shock at a decent price point, that will help a lot with porpoise issues as stock shocks suck. All said and done I wasted money on a set of bags that I didn’t like and really don’t need all because my hitch wasn’t setup to do what it’s designed to do.


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This ^^^^^

The WDH is literally the mechanism for addressing the physics involved with the drastic change in dynamics when we tow.

We often just accept that it is installed and looks like it should. But it could "look" almost identical and be perfectly configured OR far from doing what it is capable of doing.

There's no shortcut to dialing it in. You just have to make the effort to make changes to WDH, loading techniques, air pressure in tires, etc....... And then go for a tow and note the changes. You're either getting colder or warmer to the bullseye.

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Sorry but I think the e2 is junk. There's a reason trailer places throw those in as part of the deal. They are cheap. If you have enough load that you need to move to a wdh, get something with 4 point sway control. There's a reason they cost more.
 

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As far as things like tires and shocks, no doubt they will help to some degree. I like to upgrade things like that when they wear out. I may go to XL P rated tires when these current ones are worn out, and it's time for shocks now at 80k.

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I’m with you for the most part on not replacing parts prematurely. Heck yeah, get your moneys worth out of parts. That said, when it comes to the shocks on these trucks, they may not leak for over 100,000 miles and that’s the single criteria many owners look at when determining their shocks to actually be bad. In this case, I (as do many others) believe that the OE shocks ride quality is simply poor. Sure you can put off replacing shocks for 100,000 miles but why not enjoy the superior way that your truck could handle by getting those Town Car like ride quality shocks off the truck early. Actually, I feel much the same way about adding a rear sway bar. The pros simply out weigh the cons. Just my 2 cents.
 

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You're on a roll today GearHead.

Full of wisdom and good word

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Just got back from scales. RV was only partially loaded with just water hose, sewer slinky, small portable grill, and camping chairs. NO FOOD, NO DRINK, NO CLOTHES. Truck had full bag of fuel, and me, otherwise truck was empty. Scale numbers are ..... Steer axel 2880, drive axel, 4820, trailer axel 3480, gross of 11180. Just the truck scaled .... Steering axel 2880, drive axel 2180, gross 5060. According to Ford, truck has GVWR of 6360#, GCWR of 9900#, towing capacity of 7700#, max payload of 1710#.
 

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You need more weight distribution to the front wheels. Your front 2880 is unchanged when you add the trailer. That means you're getting very little to no transfer of weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
You need more weight distribution to the front wheels. Your front 2880 is unchanged when you add the trailer. That means you're getting very little to no transfer of weight.
So steering axel should be more weight with trailer and wdh attached? Hunh. Here I was thinking I was good because the wdh brought it exactly back to where it started. Whats your input about gross of 11180 and truck GCWR of only 9900? Apparently I need lots of education.
 

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Is 9900 correct?

Why do I think that sounds low?

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You need more weight distribution to the front wheels. Your front 2880 is unchanged when you add the trailer. That means you're getting very little to no transfer of weight.
Are you sure? My hitch does transfer a good bit of weight to the front, but that returns it to roughly what it was at unloaded also. When I load up without the spring bars engaged, it removes a lot from the front tires.

The FAWR doesn't allow for a great deal of weight to be added above what it has unloaded. My front axle is 3100 loaded and unloaded. I can crank on mine a little more if I need to, the FAWR is 3375.

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Discussion Starter #40
Is 9900 correct?

Why do I think that sounds low?

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ummmmm.....ummmmm......dunno where I got that number, but I just looked at Ford RV & Towing guide. Shows GCWR of 12700 for my truck. Brain bubble I suppose.
 
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