[stewartnm]

Ford has definitely NOT fixed the intercooler (CAC) issue. Driving in the rain last night in Alabama, about 70*, gave it some gas and it stared sputtering and stuttering, engine light came on and started flashing. I knew right away what it was and I was soooo mad! After a minute or so of just a little gas to keep it on the highway, it went away. It did it two more times before I got home. Now today, 12 hours later, I go start it up and it was idling weird. I took it out for a drive and it seemed to smooth out. I gave it some gas (1/2 pedal or so), it really stuttered and the CEL came on and started flashing. This time to CEL stayed on and is still on after two restarts. It was not raining today and was 85*. I'm just sick at this point. I've had the truck 3 weeks(bought new), it currently has 1500 miles on it and its been in for a recall already and now this... WTF! This is a $50K truck! Ford better fix this.

 

[Hunter73]

What's the build date for your truck?

 

[TraciInTexas]

Could be another issue take it in and have it fixed

 

[stewartnm]

built March 2013

 

[Hunter73]

built March 2013

Mine was built 3/26/13. I have 3,700 miles on mine with no problems so far. I've driven in a few heavy rainstorms, and the humidity here in Texas is always pretty high. Take it in to the dealer and see what they come up with.

 

[SPPD]

It really stinks when a new vehicle has any issues, but there are many things that can cause similar symptoms. I would imagine that with all the info about the stuttering issue posted that I would make that assumption as well. It could be something as simple as bad gas, but you won't know until you take it in to the dealer. Keep us posted on what they find.

SPPD

 

[Ecoboost Clark]

I have had my FX4 for 5 months , 10,000 miles and not one stutter yet, I honestly believe that where you live and weather patterns have alot to do with the condensation issue.

 

[Snowdog]

Don't take this wrong but it is good that the CEL light is on and is staying on as it will give the techs a good start to try and find the issue. I hate when you get "can't reproduce the problem, come pick your vehicle up" voice message. Keep us posted please.

 

[DRock]

I hate to hear that about your new truck. Mine is a 2013 as well with a 9/12 build date and while i've had no issues, i only have 700 miles on it. I bought it 2 weeks ago and i have towed with it almost 200 miles(i know it's not recommended but i had no choice). It does have the latest CAC and "shields" on it.

I have a drop in filter coming and will probably do a mild tune on it in the next little bit. Having said that, my next upgrade will be an aftermarket CAC just for insurance so this problem doesn't happen to me.

 

[AKSilverboost]

Take it in. It may be something else. That is what warranties are for.

 

[Wayne]

My build date is 10/12. 14000 miles now and no problems. If I were you I get into my dealear ASAP.

 

[unclebubba]

13 Lariat built 7/13 has the issue too.

 

[Hunter73]

13 Lariat built 7/13 has the issue too.

Have you taken it back to the dealer yet? Welcome to the forum, btw.

 

[PLASMAN]

New to the forum what is CAC?

 

[DRock]

New to the forum what is CAC?

It stands for Charge Air Cooler(or intercooler). It cools down the air coming from the turbos before it enters the engine.

 

[PLASMAN]

It stands for Charge Air Cooler(or intercooler). It cools down the air coming from the turbos before it enters the engine.

Thanks coming from the mustang world we call it an intercooler.

What is the common remedy for this condensation problem people are having with the shutter? Should I just upgrade the intercooler, and are there any models to stay away from.


Just picked up a 12FX2 Screw this week and SCT tuned it yesterday and looking to wrap up the mods this weekend with a AFE CAI and Charge pipe and exhaust.

 

[DRock]

Thanks coming from the mustang world we call it an intercooler.

What is the common remedy for this condensation problem people are having with the shutter? Should I just upgrade the intercooler, and are there any models to stay away from.


Just picked up a 12FX2 Screw this week and SCT tuned it yesterday and looking to wrap up the mods this weekend with a AFE CAI and Charge pipe and exhaust.

That's what i've always called it as well(had a twin turbo 383w foxbody, 920whp, then i got married!). Ford has had a few TSB's/fixes which were the newest designed intercoolers, air "shields" or deflectors for the CAC, and updated flashes for the PCM's.

My 2013 is supposed to have the latest updates already on it and i haven't had any problems but i don't have many miles on it yet. That being said, i plan on putting an aftermarket CAC on it. I haven't heard of anyone with the Full Race or Wagner CAC's having any of the moisture issues.

 

[Mr. D]

If Ford is like most multinational corporations it will not do much about the condensation problem until enough people are killed pulling out into high speed traffic with a heavy load and a faltering engine! Anytime I am in rain or high humidity I am afraid to pull out into high speed traffic without racing the engine to see if it will crap out with a car bearing down on me at 50 to 70 MPH! The reality is that it is cheaper to fight law cases than to recall all the Ecoboost trucks that have this problem! What's a few dead people here and there!

Tell me again how we don't need a strong federal government to deal with these huge multinational companies that care about nothing but profits! You wouldn't think that way if you had been with me and my family on HWY 101 in Northern Calif. when my Ecoboost quit on me as I was trying to pull out into traffic!

I'll accept the Supreme Courts Citizens United decision stupidity that says that corporations are actually people (HUH?) with people's rights allowing them to use their massive funds to bribe congressman with contributions when those corporation's board of directors and CEO's are put in a gas chamber "LIKE PEOPLE" for knowingly producing products that can kill people.... just to maintain profits!

Ford.... recall and fix the Ecoboost trucks with the condensation problem as a safety issue!

We need to all contact the Media on this issue because Ford doesn't seem to care.... until it affects sales/profits, or gets the federal government involved!

 

[Pinero61]

I've put 2500 miles on mine in two weeks before i had to go back overseas. I live about 20 minutes from the gulf in south Louisiana, and it was 90* and raining everyday. I've had no issues so far, and the majority of that was on the highway on 3-4 road trips. That being said, even though I haven't had any problems I'm definitely going with an aftermarket CAC. I've never been a fan of band-aiding something that's not working correctly, you always save money by fixing it right the first time.

 

[wwest]

I know a lot are drilling a tiny hole in the outlet elbows bottom in the Cac. It will drain build up but not the water sticking to the tubes. It is a somewhat fix after out of warranty for sure. Start with the smallest drill bit and work up to UR happy. It may whistle some if too large say near 1/8" so stay smaller say near 1/16". The iridium spark plugs are just too flimsy, I would use double platinum myself. Have always changed out to double platinum. The iridiums no mater what the mileage go to the shudder going down the expressway up slight inclines stretching out say 1/2 mile or more sooner or later and this also damages the Caps associated to the weak plug.

I would suggest drilling a fairly large hole in the lowest point of the CAC outflow endcap. Large enough to fit, epoxy in a 1.4" copper tube that will accept a section of standard automotive rubber vacuum tubing. Put a lawn tractor fuel filter inline with the hose, and then another section of 1/4 copper pipe. fill one end of that copper tube with solder, the use another section of rubber to connect to a spare fitting to the intake manifold downstream of the throttle plate.

Next is a bit of trial and error.

Purchased at 30,000 miles my '95 LS400 had a cold start high idle of about 12-1400 RPM, pretty serious JERK slipping it into gear at those idle speeds. The 95 had an IACV with a rubber hose feeding the input so I inserted an airflow restriction in that hose to restrict the available idle airflow to just enough to reach ~800 RPM.
I "hid" a copper tube filled with solder inside the hose feeding the IACV, drilled larger and larger holes into the solder blockage until getting to 800 RPM maximum idle.

With the EcoBUST engine you will want to have just enough airflow through the restriction to support HOT/low idle RPM. The engine ECU will do the rest, it will "learn" to adjust the DBW throttle plate to get high idle with cold starts.

The only reason for the inline fuel filter is to prevent the smallish aperture you drill in the solder blockage from getting clogged.
Oh, 280,000 trouble free miles on the LS....