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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well my 2013 3.5 eco boost SCREW was about as trouble free as could be up to 120,000miles.

From about 70k miles the back up camera has been acting up/failing and just weird,left is right that is fun but at least it goes out completely right when I need it most.Not fixed.

I vented the CAC with an 1/8” hole at 10k miles. Nothing but a sweet on the air deflector until 144k miles now it drips on the driveway.

plug changes at each 50k miles.

Air Filter every year.

Oil changes at 70% life.
At 130k miles I changed the trans filter and 6qts of fluid,I’ll do the 6qt swap every oil change for the next 4 changes.

I think I’m on my second battery.

No regular towing,but I’ve towed a few UHauls and my buddys 28’ enclosed racecar trailer about 7000lbs, about 200 miles when his truck broke down. I had to work to stay under 80.

The maintenance started right at 130k miles.
complete brake job
Throttle body started acting up with a wrench light.
Fuel control module,also did the fuse relocation. (Wrench light again with a fuel type code,low voltage. I shot gunned it with fuse and fuel control ,all in for about $70 in parts) No Faults yet.

Ive had an oil leak that keeps the AC compressor wet for a while.

I now have a dripping leak on the right side that I’m sure is the vacuum pump.
Both turbos have oil and coolant drips.
Somehow my manifolds don’t chirp.
My cam phasers are still phasing.

Ive done all the above work so I haven’t sent any stealership kids to college.

So all the above gets me to this question,what’s next?

At near 145k miles what do I need to get in front of?
With kids and grand kids a 3000mile round trip away ,at least 2 times a year, with 2 70lb dogs on board whats most likely to have us broke down?

This thing has been trouble free and never delayed us much less stranded us, I want to carry on with that reliability.
Id rather work on it at home.

So what would you do?
 

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Only 4 posts since Oct of 2015... if only I had that kind of self restraint. :LOL:
Seriously though.... It sounds like you have been doing a great job maintaining your truck. You know it better than anyone here so I bet you can also answer your own question.
Keep an eye on those seeps / leaks and fix if they get too bad. Personally, I would keep staying on top of the fluids, hoses, belt(s), etc. Check the diff(s) fluid, run good gas, coolant flush if needed... but it really sounds like you're on top of things.
 

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2013 race red SCrew 4x4 air lift bags
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Probably diffs, t case, brake fluid swaps. I was skeptical on the brake fluid, but if you've owned it this long, you're going to see some gel/gunk come out. You're much more ambitious with the transmission fluid, which isn't bad.

I've had my rear door wires fray, just replace the harness, solder it if you need a quick fix (it will only last a few months at best).

Keep on keeping on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Only 4 posts since Oct of 2015... if only I had that kind of self restraint. :LOL:
Seriously though.... It sounds like you have been doing a great job maintaining your truck. You know it better than anyone here so I bet you can also answer your own question.
Keep an eye on those seeps / leaks and fix if they get too bad. Personally, I would keep staying on top of the fluids, hoses, belt(s), etc. Check the diff(s) fluid, run good gas, coolant flush if needed... but it really sounds like you're on top of things.
Yes I’m a bit of a lurker,I take more than I give here.
Vintage Mustang forum I was all over for quite a while though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My multiple trans fluid swaps are just starting ,once I get a few 6qt swaps I should have a 100% fluid change and I think that will serve me till over 200k.

Until my brake job I never changed the brake fluid,yes it was bad black coming out. I have a power bleeder so it pretty easy to push some new fluid. I don’t have the means to pulse the ABS so I go out on a gravel road and lock it down to cycle the ABS then bleed again.

2WD so only the rear diff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I guess I should have asked when have others lost coolant hoses? Mileage?
Water Pump?
Back in the day 100k miles was WP,Alt,PS Pump,Idler pulleys they all just failed one after the other.
I don’t know if 150k is the new 100k,or 175 or ?.
I hate breaking down, for sure if the water pump goes belts and idlers will get swapped as well.
 

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You are way ahead of the breakdown prediction game.
Hang out in a grocery store paking lot sometime and just listen. I can't believe how many people drive around with squeals, clatters, whining and others bad noises and they're oblivious to it all.
 

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222500 on my 2011…

-last year i had my torque converter lead me to a ford temsn tranny
  • recently had to replace oil pressure sensor
  • coolant/heater hose from reservoir to heater core sprung a leak at the wye, got replaced a few months ago… reservoir bottle nipple still drips a little
  • about to embark on exhaust manifolds and timing job… had occasional chirping and startup rattles since 100k but this week must have had another stud let loose cuz it’s constantly chirping now running down the road… this service will include new water pump, melling oil pump, turbo fittings hoses, all belts/pulleys… still compiling the list and wondering if turbos too due to age???

have wondered of late if the timing should be done after a certain mileage just as preventative… i am planning to do all at once so just one trip inside and one coolant fill, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
222500 on my 2011…

-last year i had my torque converter lead me to a ford temsn tranny
  • recently had to replace oil pressure sensor
  • coolant/heater hose from reservoir to heater core sprung a leak at the wye, got replaced a few months ago… reservoir bottle nipple still drips a little
  • about to embark on exhaust manifolds and timing job… had occasional chirping and startup rattles since 100k but this week must have had another stud let loose cuz it’s constantly chirping now running down the road… this service will include new water pump, melling oil pump, turbo fittings hoses, all belts/pulleys… still compiling the list and wondering if turbos too due to age???

have wondered of late if the timing should be done after a certain mileage just as preventative… i am planning to do all at once so just one trip inside and one coolant fill, etc.
Your plans are similar to mine.
Truck is paid for,and has been 5 years, $5000 a year saved leaves a lot for maintenance that I haven’t spent.
Payments on a replacement would be near $800 per month,to get a truck like my FX2,so again quite a bit for maintenance.
The decision for me is how long can I go before I do everything?
If I go down the failed list for 2013’s….
Cam chains,tensioners,phasers….???
Oil pump
Water Pump then all belts and idlers,???
Exhaust manifolds,Turbos,tubes and seals…?
CAC?
Transmission?
(I have heard many “failures” are the internal harness and shift valves) so change them all at once?)
Rear axle unless the locker explodes should be good well into 200k miles with a fluid change.
How about those front wheel hub bearings?
When are the ball joints going to give out?
PCV ,mine still OEM.

Im on the fence on replacing turbos and manifolds,I’ve had no trouble with either,except for the external leaks I know of and no chirp. I’m going to pull the cold side tubing ,if the turbines have axial play and oil in the tubes that will make that dission.

My concern is being 1000 miles from home,and tools.

I have a friend with a 2014,his truck was the poster child for the failure list! All under warranty but still. If there is a top 10 failure list Im sure he checked every box.
Then my truck. Nothing,until 110k miles.
O2 sensors (all 4)
Throttle body
That low fuel voltage? Code. ( fuse relocation kit,and fuel pump control module)
Thats it for “codes”
Oil/filter
Air Filter
Brakes
Battery
Tires
windshield
oh and the rubber piece that breaks inside the heater box that sound like the front of the engine is going to fall off.
Yea back up camera is wonkey.

Cam phaser give an audible warning correct? 1000 miles,100 ft?
Manifolds chirp and make noise,unreliable boost? But still drivable.
So what on the fail list just dies?

The fun of old vehicles…..
 

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Good to hear of your success thus far. Have been doing most of my own maintenance but am dreading the probable cam phaser job when it becomes an item. I don't hear anything on startup so....

I know nothing of this fuel voltage issue - what is that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
F150RTR, fuse panel right at the front under hood . Fuse 27,it’s a mini fuse. Carefully try to remove it they will weld themself in place and burn. It creates a high resistance connection that lowers voltage to the fuel pump control module (located on top of spare tire) .There is a Service bulletin kit to move the fuse to an unused socket. I was in CA when I got the wrench light,truck started then died,I had my Harbor Freight code reader with me,I had within a week just had the throttle body go bad, the code was for low fuel control voltage IIRC.
When I went to the dealer,after some internet diagnostic, I didn’t even finish giving the counter guy at the Ford dealer the Kit PN and he was already getting it for me. He suggested the FPCM as well,all in with tax was less than $70!
Took me about an hour to do both working slowly.
 
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