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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
I was poking around the ‘ol google and didn’t find any great answers on timing set up. I’m not too sure what you can do other than get it as hot as possible and listen for audible pinging or knock. Being at altitude, you can advance the timing at least 5* though without any issue.


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This was my though as well. Between the altitude and 91 octane I probably won't even run into knock. 91 is only $0.10 more than 87/88 here, and $0.20 more than 85, so its not a big deal for me to run it.

I did see some posts where guys were running 10-12°. One guy I think was even at 15° I believe. I just don't know how far you take it before you just arn't doing yourself any good anymore. I guess it depends on how much the ECU is adding and when.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You’ll have a huffer on it before long. Heck, that an external OD and you’ll be sailing uphills.
The gears are turning. The guy that built the turbo for my Liberty diesel is also building up turbos for the Colorado Duramax now. He has a bunch of the GTB1752 variable geometry turbo's laying around and has some fresh ones he will sell me.

I can get a manifold meant for the 22RTE(turbo version of this motor) for $250 on ebay. I can likely drill and tap new holes for the GTB17 to bolt up. Another $150-200 for a controller called the Digiboost S and I can actually run the variable geometry turbo with a vacuum actuator just based on the boost pressure without any kind of ECU change.

This turbo will spool on the 2.8L Duramax diesel at around 1200 rpm. I had a slightly larger unit on my Liberty 2.8L and was making 20 psi at 1600 rpm. I suspect this thing may almost make my 2-3 psi target right off of idle.

Basically, I think I can have this thing boosted for ~$1000. It would bump me 45 hp from where it currently is, which is 50%, but not much more than stock sea level power.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I just snagged an Auto Cool 85 amp PWM fan controller. It soft starts the radiator fan and then will ramp up the speed via PWM to 100% as the coolant temperatures increase. I am hoping this will limit the draw the fan puts on the motor to reasonable levels, IE, it only needs to run at 25% or whatever to keep the engine cool under most circumstances.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I did get deaver on the phone today. They didn't think there would be any issue running their 3 or 4" lift 63" chevy leaf springs but also didnt sound like it have been done before.

Thats a lot of $$$ to gamble with.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ugh. I dont know what to do about the rear springs.

I went on Rockauto and a set of genera-brand USA springs are $411.

Advance Auto and Carquest want $350 a spring!

Deaver wants ~$820 for their 4" Chevy leafs but I am worried that, if my current springs are flat, they will end up giving me more than 4" of lift and then ill be lifting the front. I dont want to do that.

Its already on a 1" block, 4" lift blocks(for 3" more) sound like a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Can Deaver provide you measurements so you can compare?


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Probably. I sent them pictures of my current setup today because they wanted to see my shackle angles and what not. I haven’t heard back so ill give them another ring tomorrow.
 
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Discussion Starter #28


The T-bird fan came in today. This thing could not be more perfect. The stock radiator core is 21”x18”. The fan shroud is 21.75”x18.625”

Now I just need that PWM fan controller and I will be golden.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Went for a family adventure in the national forest with our neighbors. He owns an ‘89 Pickup with the same solid axle swap as mine. His is a 5” lift and 35” tires though.

 

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Talk to the Snailtrail 4x4 podcast guys, they both have insta accounts and have both built more than a few Toyota's with the 63" springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #31


This just came in today and looks pretty awesome. My only concern is he wants me to put the temp sensor on the outlet of the radiator. That seems weird since the outlet temp could vary wildly just based on engine rpm. I could be at a 200F engine outlet temp and the cold side radiator might be at 150F if im at 1200 rpm. In the same state it could be 190F at 4000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok here is his response:

“The controller want to see the OUTLOW temperature to adjust
the fan RPM according to many things - engine load, air temp
and your speed. Its like a servo loop controlling the temperature
of the radiator OUTLFOW.

You want to send cooler coolant back to the engine at about 10 to 15
degrees below the engine thermostat temperature. This way
you will have rock solid engine temperature. Use the black
knob to set the radiator OUTFLOW temperature. Range is
about 140 to 180 +/-.

Make this setting with the vehicle parked, running and up to
temperature with your laser temp gun. Put the red dot on
the OUTFLOW area on a dull black surface. Avoid chrome
or shinny surfaces due to errors.”

Makes sense. I guess it will generally stabilize around the thermostat temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I thought this might be an issue, and it definitely is :



I was hoping i could just chuck this thing in there with no modifications to the shroud, but looks like i gotta trim it down. There is about 1.5” of wall on the sides if the shroud that I can pull off which i think will get me there.
 
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