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Great work man!

I may be hitting you up with some questions if I end up going this same route. Ryan is a pretty awesome dude to work with and has been very helpful for me.
 

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I’ve been using a Rupes Bigfoot 15 for several years now. Great machine and nice and quiet.

I wouldn’t do a 21 unless you had large panels and worked with the machine a lot. 21 also seems to generate more heat if everything else stays comparable.

IMO, some excellent advice above!


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Good info, thank you. Or maybe I just like confirmation bias. How'd the Mountaineer/ Aviator/ Spaceship turn out?
I haven't had a chance to do any more on it. It's been a gong show with Work, buying and selling houses and a big move (600+ miles away).

Likely, I'll be playing with it again in September.
 

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I have always just done M205 or similar level of cut polish, Iso/water mix (usually 30/70), Then usually it's a Paint prep like "Optimum Paint Prep".

I want the paint to be as naked as possible before coating, may just be personal preference, but I figure the coating will stick better and last longer.
 

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Thank you for the compliments on the build, its been a pretty long process so far. If you recall I actually took it to 2 dealerships for 'diagnosis' and they both said I need a new long block. I did the math and with money saved by removing and installing myself, I was able to ditch the factory weak links and get a bullet proof block by the platform guru.


The driveway angle added just a bit of complexity with the picking, but all in all its straight forward. I haven't run into issues with needing a lift or anything like that, and I was actually still able to skip removing a bunch of components that the book called for. I've also cheated and dummy proofed myself in any and every way possible. I have access to a service manual with the sequence and torque specs etc. And I took a lot of pictures for myself and went over the top with labelling everything. I labelled every plug and bolt and bracket and shield with sharpie and blue tape, then grouped and bagged and labelled some more. I have learned a lot of patience, while its basic work its very tight quarters.


I think pTown may have removed his and Rev is installing the new one maybe? And I think Blown is just still deciding if he's doing his own? I'd have to catch up on their builds. I believe Mr. Tifosi's done a few now but he's a shop with fancy lifts and tools so that doesn't count. I also heard he has shop mice that have been trained as heavy mechanics and they work all night prepping trucks. Some CIA program.

Doing the work myself I now know every nut and bolt and sensor, which is nice. But nothing like Mr. Brown, he's done a few and has some tricks up his sleeve when I ask.
Great plan and organization. I have decided to pull the motor myself and use it as a therapy excuse. Should be fun, I’ve pulled. Couple motors, transmissions, etc before so have some experience in the area.


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Nice animal! 400 yards is my max for deer.

I'm prepping garage this week and should have a motor showing up by the end of next week. Customs at the border is a wild card, so I'm going to try to line up the custom broker that I work at uses.
 

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Check connections at the starter and re-seat the PCM connection on the fire wall. Likely has to do with a connection.


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Sorry to hear dude, that would be pretty frustrating. You’ll be much happier with this route in the long run.


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Can you clarify? You want to see where on the manifold the BOV line attaches?

View attachment 155116
So @RMB_Ryan knows what you need, but compared to mine it's a bit different.

So the fitting you have open to atmosphere, is basically the same as mine. Mine just taps into intake pipe on the way to the Passenger side turbo.

The Line you have running to the compressor housing is run to the hot-side pipe on the passenger side. I am assuming that this is the vac/boost reference for the solenoid to control the WG's.

Hope this helps.
 
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