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Pulled the valve covers over the weekend, per request. This week/ weekend I'm planning to drain fluids and start ripping everything out to prep for motor removal. Need to order a trick little folding engine stand that was recommended to me, and pick up the cherry picker I'm borrowing.


Awesome video. Very cool!!
 

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Does it tell you anything interesting? Is it normal for the VCTs to only gush oil at shut down? I was expecting it to be a more steady flow...

I'm so stoked to get the new motor in and drive it again!! Can't wait! I wonder if people knew the new engine was coming from you, if there would be more interest. Planning on taking out the front clip, heat exchangers, and misc. today.
The splash lubrication is pretty interesting to watch, and oil does more or less spit, gush, shoot, spit and all the other fun stuff out of everything and onto everything. If one were to remove the extended filler neck at the oil fill, you can look in to see how the oil flows around the thrust surface of the front of the cams. It’s neat and pretty incredible how it was originally designed to provide the perfect amount of lubrication and oil just by controlled leakage and splashed oiling.

I will start updated you with some very cool pictures here shortly so we will get the party started.

Front clip is the way to go 110%. I think some engine porn is about to hit this thread like a brick.
 

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Well yea, of course.

But now everybody is gonna be wondering just how far you're gonna take it too? ;)

I mean, it's not really a SIN to go back to 100% oem with a RBM motor.
But I don't know if anyone has been disciplined enough to do it.

So, I'll be watching personally. Lol
I will say, this one is for sure to be some eye candy and I’m digging what we have discussed regarding the magic valve covers . I don’t want to say too much, that’s for OP. I will say OP made good decisions which are perfectly suited to what he has planned. I think it’s going to be a hit.
 

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Nice work. Looks great man. You will find that the pick point of the motor is further back than it would appear. Ford likes to try to get the motors are far rear as possible. You can get it out with hood on, but cowl will need to go. Unless you have a little truck up your sleeve
 

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Well Mother's day took priority over the truck so I haven't pulled the motor yet. Over the weekend I disconnected the torque converter nuts, bellhousing bolts, motor mounts, etc. Built a DIY(read highly custom, one-off) spreader bar and adapter yesterday and should be picking it out today. Looking at the set up some more... I really think I could squeak it out with the hood and windshield cowling still in tact. Buuut the last dealership I took it to ripped all the rubber seals from my cowling, so I'd like to replace it anyways, unfortunately they're not cheap. I'll update with some pics of the intake runners and inside of the intake manifold. Cylinders 2 and 3 were giving me misfire codes and they appear the dirtiest.

Here's my Bubba'd spreader bar and adapter plate...
View attachment 146137 View attachment 146145 View attachment 146153
Very nice!! How much are those rubber pieces by the way?

I heard I received goodies at my shop today!
 

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Now that the engine is out and while I'm waiting for the new one, I want to goof around with some things. Please weigh in and tell me if I'm wasting time or if you recommend anything else while I'm in this deep...​ I understand most of it is overkill.

1- Change transfer case fluid.
2- Change differential fluids.
3- Change power steering and brake fluids? Lube Axles? Doesn't seem necessary but Ford recommends at 150k miles.
4- Inspect motor mounts, ball joints, and bushings.
5- Flush heater core.
6- Flush intercooler.
7- Upgrade ground wires to prep for future stereo mods and... why not? This shouldn't bug anything with resistance or sensors right?
8- Re-tape all the electrical wires, looms, and sensors since the ends are peeling away in many places.
9- Clean all MAP sensors and electrical connectors.
10- Clean throttle body and intake manifold.
11- Maybe goof around with some insulated tape on sensitive areas and sensors?
12- Insulate the fat A/C lines. Any negative or positive impacts of insulating coolant lines near heat sources or something?
13- Insulate hood and/ or firewall? Probably never notice any difference in heat or noise, and its not cheap. But now would be the time to do it.
14- Swap in Raptor transmission mount.


Hopefully I can get through that list and have time to detail some things while they're removed:
Restore headlights and coat with Opti-Lens or a 2K clearcoat
Polish hood, bumpers, and fenders and coat with some Opti-Gloss
Clean up plastics, maybe some Solution finish, and coat with DLux
Clean and treat fender liners and wheel wells
Leatherique treatment, clean, and coat leather. I don't remember the product, I think cquarts leather.
Let’s talk about your list. I’m liking the ambition for sure. There are some really good things to do on that list now, and some things that won’t really apply or be a beneficial. Give you a buzz when I am back in town man
 

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Any other tips, tricks, ideas, arguments, thoughts...


1- Change transfer case fluid.
2- Change differential fluids.
3- Change brake fluid? Lube Axles? Doesn't seem necessary but Ford recommends at 150k miles.
4- Inspect motor mounts, ball joints, and bushings.
5- Flush heater core.
6- Flush intercooler.
7- Upgrade ground wires to prep for future stereo mods and... why not? This shouldn't bug anything with resistance or sensors right?
8- Re-tape all the electrical wires, looms, and sensors since the ends are peeling away in many places.
9- Clean all MAP sensors and electrical connectors.
10- Clean throttle body and intake manifold.
11- Maybe goof around with some insulated tape on sensitive areas and sensors?
12- Insulate the fat A/C lines. Any negative or positive impacts of insulating coolant lines near heat sources or something?
13- Insulate hood and/ or firewall? Probably never notice any difference in heat or noise, and its not cheap. But now would be the time to do it.
14- Swap in Raptor transmission mount.
Raptor trans mount yes
Clean all sensors and plumbing
Intake manifold cleaning
Heater core will drain and flush itself one you fill the system. You could flush it, but likely is in just fine of shape. I’d do a air-lift flush if you’d like with new motor and best way to probably get to heater core
Check both motor mount isolators and upgrade to HD tow package isolators if possible.
Trans/ transfer case, and all fluid changes are recommended for sure
Simple green only on cleaning aluminum plumbing, don’t use purple power

Hope that helps a little
 

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Generally speaking we only use manual tensioning when cams are locked. Something I’m not a fan of on a truck. Locking vct would leave a lot to be desired. Imo
 

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Just to clarify, we’re talking bolt on parts not additional items in the motor.

Things that make sense to do now, while there is room and it isn’t a ton of work.
 

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This is what happens when I'm bored and caught up (more or less). Much less interesting than the engine pics above!!

A few back ordered parts remain and I am ready for shipment!

I was 3/4s of the way through compounding and polishing the hood, bumper, and front fenders this weekend and my polisher took a dump :mad: so I didn't get to the coating stage. Just bare, clean, 99% perfect, vulnerable paint. I've wanted to upgrade for a while but now's not the best time.

Anybody out there... rotary vs long throw random orbital?

View attachment 151474
Two words.

Auto Geek
 
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