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Discussion Starter · #561 ·
Any luck battling the crazy VVT readings?
No progress and no luck. Well it hasn't blown up yet, so thats lucky...

I've been logging intake/exhaust VCT and oil pressure readings on almost every cold start. Found some patterns that appear to associate with the clacking. No resolution or solid ideas though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #562 · (Edited)
Summarizing, I seem to be having 3 types of issues, possibly inter-related, not sure...
I think my next step is to swap 5# wastegate springs in and see if that gives @Boostking any better control
Maybe take it to the dealership for a new strategy code. Then bug @Boostking with a couple bucks to update yet again. Been dragging this guy around for almost 3 years now I think

1. Bad turbo from the beginning? WG or boost solenoids hooked up wrong?
-Excessive oil from BOV and turbo fittings
-Laggy acceleration and then a quick jump
-Only hitting 54 #/min max (likely because of tuning limits due to VCT issues)
-Warped CRP manifolds on both sides
-Logged catalytic temps of 1700*F

2. Bad phasers or something VCT related
-Intermittent cold-start phaser clacking
-Excessive noise when running cold (sounds like a valve that needs adjusted)
-Occasional clack noise when pulling into a parking spot or slow-rolling idle
-VCT actual not matching the commanded target, both intake and exhaust, especially around 5600-6000 rpm
-All 4 VCT solenoids are brand new

3. PCM/ strategy code related? Harness/ termination damage?
-Original PCM was fried by dealership, Ford refurb installed with new motor.
- 2-3 Random instances of truck dying in the middle of the road, first ~5k miles of the new motor. Hasn't happened in a long time
-VCT issues are consistently in the 5600-6000rpm range
 

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Did you try venting the crankcase to atmosphere? That would for sure give you the answer whether or not a turbo is bad.

If reflashing the PCM does not solve it, you’re definitely looking at something mechanical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #564 ·
Did you try venting the crankcase to atmosphere? That would for sure give you the answer whether or not a turbo is bad.

If reflashing the PCM does not solve it, you’re definitely looking at something mechanical.
I pulled the oil fill cap at idle and it seemed to have a slight amount of positive pressure. I believe you recommended tapping a mechanical pressure gauge into the cap, and I have yet to try that but I'd still like to.
If it shows positive pressure then I try a filter style breather on the cap instead?

FYI current catch can setup- full race dual chamber, vacuum from each turbo inlet pipe, evacuated from each valve cover. PCV delete tied into the TurboSmart mechanical BOV reference. Standard solid oil cap
 

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I pulled the oil fill cap at idle and it seemed to have a slight amount of positive pressure. I believe you recommended tapping a mechanical pressure gauge into the cap, and I have yet to try that but I'd still like to.
If it shows positive pressure then I try a filter style breather on the cap instead?

FYI current catch can setup- full race dual chamber, vacuum from each turbo inlet pipe, evacuated from each valve cover. PCV delete tied into the TurboSmart mechanical BOV reference. Standard solid oil cap
You will always have a slight amount of positive crankcase pressure at idle without the PCV connected. Simply because you no longer have that metered device pulling contaminants/vapor out.

I can help you out if you post a picture of your current setup. I’m familiar with the dual turbo setup, but every has it setup differently.

Edit: I pulled up one of your old photos. Try capping the turbo inlet connections on the intake tubes. Then you have 2 options….

1) Install the OEM valve cover connections and slipp on some breather filters. Either securing the catch can lines or removing it entirely for the time being.
2) Removing the catch can lines that ran to the turbo inlet and installing breather filters on the can itself.

I saw that old video as well, you should not be getting that much oil at all.
 
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