[BRoell]

2011 FX4 with 155k miles. Had hesitation/ shuddering when getting on the freeway with no flashing or steady CEL. Removed 5* 91 perf tune and continued to monitor. Next day same issue but this time P0303 Misfire Cyl 3. Plugs were fresh and properly gapped so i switched plugs between cylinders 2 and 3 and cleared the code. Still ran poorly, threw code again, still cyl 3. I then swapped coils between cylinders 2 and 3 and cleared codes again, then drove home for lunch and returned to work. No codes thrown but was pretty much constantly stuttering anytime there was any amount of boost. Parked it after lunch and then after work there was a ticking/ tapping sound on startup, still no codes thrown. Sound seems to come from pass. side top end/ under intake manifold. Minor tapping felt through pass. valve cover near cam position sensors, intake manifold as a whole, and most pronounced in the high-press fuel lines and pump(cavitating/ pulsing feeling). Dealer said drop it off and they would diagnose exactly whats wrong with it. They cut open the oil filter and found metal in the paper element, determined I need a new engine and digging further into the issue wasn't worth the time or effort. Brought it home, pulled valve covers and found no visible damage, sound got slightly louder when started without passenger valve cover. Now I'm trying to figure out all the options available and overall costs. I'm stuck between being practical and wanting the pipe dream. Dealer quoted $5k for a reman long block, $850 each for new turbos, and about $3000 for labor. I'd like to do the work myself and put that money towards upgrades. Here's how I see my options and some other questions I have. Please let me know if you have suggestions or any other questions. I have videos of noises if it helps anything.




1. Ford long block, reuse turbos? Any metal thats possibly stuck could be flushed somehow before swapping?


2. Ford long block, new OEM turbos(48/51?)?


3. Ford long block, rebuild turbos w/ Batmo wheels?


4. rBrown mild long block w/ timing upgrades? (Chains, Tensioners, Guides,... phasers?)




Is a gen2 motor swappable into my truck? I assume I'm lacking the needed electronics for injection etc.


If I'm changing turbos can I change to the 51's? Change from mech. to e-BOV setup? What are the pros/ cons of mechanical and electronic valves?


Any other cool upgrades I'm unaware of? (New timing chains, new tensioners, double chain systems)


What would symptoms of a failed injector be? How do you diagnose a faulty phaser/ vvt gizmo?

 

[Chris H]

No way in hell I'd put an OEM long block and OEM turbos in it but that's me.

Call @rbrown and see what he's got in stock that fits within your budget. Maybe you can swing a long block from him and a set of GT turbos. You've obviously done some research before posting this so props to you.

Regarding a gen 2 swap, the general consensus is that it would be expensive as the gen1 trucks don't have the brains to control a gen2 fuel system.

 

[bespurcell]

^^^ What he said.

 

[noodles]

^^^ What he said.

I concur.

 

[TX-Ripper]

2011 FX4 with 155k miles. Had hesitation/ shuddering when getting on the freeway with no flashing or steady CEL. Removed 5* 91 perf tune and continued to monitor. Next day same issue but this time P0303 Misfire Cyl 3. Plugs were fresh and properly gapped so i switched plugs between cylinders 2 and 3 and cleared the code. Still ran poorly, threw code again, still cyl 3. I then swapped coils between cylinders 2 and 3 and cleared codes again, then drove home for lunch and returned to work. No codes thrown but was pretty much constantly stuttering anytime there was any amount of boost. Parked it after lunch and then after work there was a ticking/ tapping sound on startup, still no codes thrown. Sound seems to come from pass. side top end/ under intake manifold. Minor tapping felt through pass. valve cover near cam position sensors, intake manifold as a whole, and most pronounced in the high-press fuel lines and pump(cavitating/ pulsing feeling). Dealer said drop it off and they would diagnose exactly whats wrong with it. They cut open the oil filter and found metal in the paper element, determined I need a new engine and digging further into the issue wasn't worth the time or effort. Brought it home, pulled valve covers and found no visible damage, sound got slightly louder when started without passenger valve cover. Now I'm trying to figure out all the options available and overall costs. I'm stuck between being practical and wanting the pipe dream. Dealer quoted $5k for a reman long block, $850 each for new turbos, and about $3000 for labor. I'd like to do the work myself and put that money towards upgrades. Here's how I see my options and some other questions I have. Please let me know if you have suggestions or any other questions. I have videos of noises if it helps anything.




1. Ford long block, reuse turbos? Any metal thats possibly stuck could be flushed somehow before swapping?


2. Ford long block, new OEM turbos(48/51?)?


3. Ford long block, rebuild turbos w/ Batmo wheels?


4. rBrown mild long block w/ timing upgrades? (Chains, Tensioners, Guides,... phasers?)




Is a gen2 motor swappable into my truck? I assume I'm lacking the needed electronics for injection etc.


If I'm changing turbos can I change to the 51's? Change from mech. to e-BOV setup? What are the pros/ cons of mechanical and electronic valves?


Any other cool upgrades I'm unaware of? (New timing chains, new tensioners, double chain systems)


What would symptoms of a failed injector be? How do you diagnose a faulty phaser/ vvt gizmo?

You might check LKQ for a take out motor.

skip the batmo wheels if you go rebuild.

 

[BRoell]

You might check LKQ for a take out motor.

skip the batmo wheels if you go rebuild.

The take out motor idea doesn't sit well with me, I'm just not confident in what problems I could be inheriting. Doesn't mean my thoughts are well founded, but it is what it is I guess. If you've got a good argument I'd love to hear it.

Can you explain your thoughts on the batmos? Not worth the cost? Any issues with them? I assumed the GTs were basically stock turbos with a billet compressor wheel. The rebuild with new wheels seemed like a cheaper way to get the same end result...

 

[BRoell]

No way in hell I'd put an OEM long block and OEM turbos in it but that's me.

Call @rbrown and see what he's got in stock that fits within your budget. Maybe you can swing a long block from him and a set of GT turbos. You've obviously done some research before posting this so props to you.

Regarding a gen 2 swap, the general consensus is that it would be expensive as the gen1 trucks don't have the brains to control a gen2 fuel system.

Why no OEM? I feel like there's better value in a mild build, is that similar to your train of thought? Not reliable enough in stock configuration? Or just not enough power for your butt dyno?

I PM'd and emailed his site but no reply yet, he seems to be a busy man... I like the idea of the raptor/ gen 2 crank, better bearings, and forged innards with some GTs. Probably way overkill and over budget, hopefully I'll find out soon. I need to read through the engine build threads a bit more.

 

[Chris H]

Can you explain your thoughts on the batmos? Not worth the cost? Any issues with them? I assumed the GTs were basically stock turbos with a billet compressor wheel. The rebuild with new wheels seemed like a cheaper way to get the same end result...

It's not the same - if it was, everyone would have BATMO wheels for the lower price of $800 as opposed to GT turbos for a touch over $2k. Search for BATMO and you'll find several threads (here and elsewhere) that discuss them at length. I bought a set of BATMO wheels used and ended up selling them before I installed them. Granted, I was going to pull OEM turbos out to install the wheels and I figured I may as well do a legit turbo upgrade if I was going to pull them out. So I bought "GT" turbos and then ended up selling them. LOL

Why no OEM? I feel like there's better value in a mild build, is that similar to your train of thought? Not reliable enough in stock configuration? Or just not enough power for your butt dyno?

I PM'd and emailed his site but no reply yet, he seems to be a busy man... I like the idea of the raptor/ gen 2 crank, better bearings, and forged innards with some GTs. Probably way overkill and over budget, hopefully I'll find out soon. I need to read through the engine build threads a bit more.

You'll have to chat with Ryan to be sure, but the cost difference between a bone-stock OEM long block and turbos versus a mild setup from Ryan with "GT" turbos from wherever you can get them cheapest (they sell on here fairly regular in the classifieds, both new and slightly used) may not be as much as one would think. It all depends on your level of self control. I tried to get a short block from Ryan to install OEM heads and GT turbos and I ended up doing a full motor build with EFR turbos. ZERO self control on my end. Thank heavens my wife is understanding of my inner gear-head demons.

@rbrown - give this man a motor!

 

[TX-Ripper]

The take out motor idea doesn't sit well with me, I'm just not confident in what problems I could be inheriting. Doesn't mean my thoughts are well founded, but it is what it is I guess. If you've got a good argument I'd love to hear it.

Can you explain your thoughts on the batmos? Not worth the cost? Any issues with them? I assumed the GTs were basically stock turbos with a billet compressor wheel. The rebuild with new wheels seemed like a cheaper way to get the same end result...

Take out motors are a roll of the dice.

If if you have the money for something better, get it.

Even Batman would run from batmos...

 

[BRoell]

@rbrown - give this man a motor!

Here here!

And here's a video of my noises, trying to test if I input the link correctly...

 

[BRoell]

Once the idle slowed...

 

[BRoell]

No obvious issues I could see... color seems to be healthy afaik