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Discussion Starter #1
After a lot of reading, i haven’t seen anyone else with this specific issue yet.

2012 3.5l fx4 supercab 282K mi
Grill guard and fender flares are the only non stock/OEM items. No catch can or intercooler weep hole.

There is an odd rattle that starts anywhere from 40-80 mph. I seems to only happen while maintaining a speed, typically in 6th gear, but it’s happened in 5th as well. More throttle while it rattles causes it to get louder, releasing the throttle even a little for a split second causes the rattle to stop.
The rattle sounds a bit like shaking a small can of screws, coming from the engine bay.
rattle starts intermittently, and constantly varying speed prevents the rattle from starting.
Idle is just slightly rough, smoothes up when I put it in gear.

No codes are being thrown.
new gapped “.028” sp534 spark plugs.
Oil and air filter have 500 mi on them.
Burning ethonol free 91 octane.
Cleaned 3 intake sensors with crc MAF cleaner.

The alarming part, hooking up my BlueDriver scanner, I’m reading -23 LTFT on bank 2 and -19 on bank 1 at idle. Goes to -12 b2 and -9 b1 LTFT on average while driving around. Accelerating causes STFT to go quite positive, and everything runs happy.
Checked the spark plugs yesterday and they were slightly chalky, showing signs of running lean. Getting 18.8mpg combined city/hw.
It’s making good power, and doesn’t hesitate if I put my foot in it. Sensors all seem to be giving good readings.
My suspects are coils, fuel filter& fuel pump, or even the evap system. However the scanner is reading 200-1890 psi on the fuel rail at idle on the low end to WOT on the high end. Haven’t taken it to redline though to see what max psi gets to.
Mode6 Shows me 1 misfire count on cylinders 2,4,&6, and 0 counts in the last 10 drives at the same time..? I see 1 misfire on those cylinders every time I check mode 6 on multiple 20+ mi drives, however it hasn’t counted up past 2 yet.

I plan on trying some BG injector cleaner In the gas, wipe out intercooler, and bore-scope the intake valves. Previous owner didn’t drive it very hard, so I’m guessing the intake valves are caked, causing the computer to try to lean it out to account for less intake air.

Any ideas what could be causing the rattle or high negative fuel trims is appreciated, even the sarcastic ones lol.
If I solve any of this, I will update.
 

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The rattling can sound is almost definitely the cam phasers. Not sure if the springs can break on these or get worn, but it's strange you only hear it at higher speeds. How is oil pressure when you start hearing that sounds at speed? Sounds like something is going wrong with the oiling system, causing your phasers to get out of whack, leading to your misfires and other issues. Is this on a motorcraft filter? What oil are you using?

If it's more of a scraping sound it would point towards a turbo. Phaser issues sound like shaking a can of spray paint with a marble in it.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Oil pressure has always read slightly above half way on the cluster, however I need to watch it closer when it’s making the noise to rule out a pressure/flow drop. It’s had Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic it’s whole life. It was my dads truck, so I know it’s life story fairly well. I don’t remember which autozone oil filter I put on there, I’ll check and get back to ya.
It’s definatly a rattle like a paint can, so the phaser is a good lead.
 

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Well negative LTFT means it’s pulling fuel because of a rich condition. I would double check that all piping is tight and intact. BUT sometimes the fuel trims will run a tad negative because of Ethanol free gas. Except not -21 LOL.

Like Dan said I would check the oil filter and make sure it’s an motorcraft.

These trucks are very picky and I’ve seen when the oil is VERY diluted with fuel it makes the fuel trims whacky.

There are quite a few things to check but I’d also look into replacing the O-ring on the HPFP. That can cause some fuel to leak into the crankcase.

I would also highly recommend checking the pcv valve. Make sure it is intact or even replace it with the updated brown pcv valve.

The 02 sensors are just gigantic noses sniffing for O2.

I wouldn’t pay too much attention to the Oil pressure gauge as it is a dummy switch. But it will drop if there’s infact no oil pressure.

One simple thing to check is the air filter. If it’s clogged then that will give you a rich condition.
 

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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
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Getting some stellar advice (y)
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate everyone’s willingness to help a newby to the forums. Lots of experience showing through.
I will get to it this evening after work. Probably need an oem air filter and oil filter, Fram was what I grabbed...
oil doesn’t smell like gas, but I will double check since i just drove it 200 more miles.

I replaced the bank 1 PCV with the new light brown PCV, it was oily but free to move. Bank 2 PCV was already light brown, and looked clean and free to move. I assumed b2 PCV had been replaced, and that b1&2 have the same part number...
 

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I appreciate everyone’s willingness to help a newby to the forums. Lots of experience showing through.
I will get to it this evening after work. Probably need an oem air filter and oil filter, Fram was what I grabbed...
oil doesn’t smell like gas, but I will double check since i just drove it 200 more miles.

I replaced the bank 1 PCV with the new light brown PCV, it was oily but free to move. Bank 2 PCV was already light brown, and looked clean and free to move. I assumed b2 PCV had been replaced, and that b1&2 have the same part number...
You should only have 1 PCV valve pass side. That's it.
 

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Like Winchested said. The driver side PCV valve should NOT have a check valve in it. Should be wide open. As that is the venting side.

If I’m not mistaken the driver side valve should be black and not brown.
 

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My ignorance is showing, maybe my dad put the wrong valve on the drivers side thinking the same like I did... I will investigate, as I fooled with them a month ago.

Also does anyone have a good example or explanation of what good O2 sensors read?

I drove my focus to work this morning and watched it’s O2 sensor, which was constantly modulating. Where as when I drove the truck in at lunch the miliamperage was almost flatlined with a spike down every 5-15 seconds...
 

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I would definitely check to make sure that the driver side does not have a check valve. If so I’d replace that immediately with the correct one.


Which o2 sensor were you watching? The upstream or downstream? You should monitor the upstream sensors which they Label as “sensor 1” For example: Bank 1 sensor 1. Something along those lines.

These trucks are pretty picky and would/should throw a code if the sensor wasn’t operating correctly. But I could be wrong.
 

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Well here is data from blue driver scanner. I didn’t screenshot the live data line graph. It also rearranged the order in a dumb way.
DE2E9A88-7640-4937-93F1-5DA466FC7FD7.png
 

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Sensor 1 is the wideband o2 sensor which reads very different than the standard O2 sensor ( Sensor 2) in the cats. Those read with a steady voltage. The wide bands read lean/rich by fluctuating between between positive and negative voltages.

From the screenshot they seem to be functioning “within spec”.

The crankcase needs proper ventilation in order to correctly trim and function. So I highly recommend checking that driver side.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So the proper valves for the passenger side and driver side respectively are? Asking for a friend, jk.

I’m looking at 2 old pcv valves “PA66-GF33”. Yes I hold onto crap, and so does my dad.
Installed on the truck by me and my dad, “PA66-GF33” for the driver and passenger side.
All do indeed have a valves in them..
Gotta get that right and see if LTFT gets better, hopefully no rattle either.
 

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Should have a PCV on the pass only brown or black don't matter. The drivers side should just be a wide open fitting in the valve cover that the tube attaches to.
 

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I didn't even know the driver's side would accept a PCV valve. I'm surprised it's not an entirely different type of fitting.
 
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You’re a good dude SrpRacing, I spent like two hours googling trying to find the part last night. Normally a guy has a mangled carcass of a part to match numbers off of.

Decided I’ll go pay whatever the Ford dealer wants to charge to avoid shipping delays.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So here’s the story. The “vent elbow” was assumed to be a PCV valve that lost it’s guts in the motor at 80,000 mi...
I’ve never seen one come apart, but I can see how my dad could have assumed the worst... its hard to believe there are no driveability issues after 200k mi of improper crankcase ventilation.
My highway drive today with the proper fitting installed had no rattle.
LTFT is around -17 b2 -13 B1 at idle, and -10 B2 -7 B1 cruising down the road. So marginal improvement. The rest of that trim is likely dirty intake valves or lower compression ig?
 

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So here’s the story. The “vent elbow” was assumed to be a PCV valve that lost it’s guts in the motor at 80,000 mi...
I’ve never seen one come apart, but I can see how my dad could have assumed the worst... its hard to believe there are no driveability issues after 200k mi of improper crankcase ventilation.
My highway drive today with the proper fitting installed had no rattle.
LTFT is around -17 b2 -13 B1 at idle, and -10 B2 -7 B1 cruising down the road. So marginal improvement. The rest of that trim is likely dirty intake valves or lower compression ig?
I'm surprised it didn't blow the dipstick out and cause all the seals to leak.

Seen this happen to an engine with plugged pcv.
 
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Now that you fixed the ventilation, you should reset the KAM to get the fuel trims reset. The current numbers were "learned" over time with the incorrect PCV in there. You may want to check the engine over for leaks, rear main seal, oil pan, turbos, etc.
 
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