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That is pretty crazy no seals were blown. I guess it would make sense it still was evacuating. BUT at a much slower rate.

Like what Dan said, Reset the fuel trims.
Simply removing the negative terminal overnight does the job. Or any tuning device will suffice.

You would have to have some VERY dirty intake valves in order to obtain those negative LTFT.

Check all piping to ensure tight seal. The truck isn’t getting enough air. Or it senses a very rich condition.

The truck doesn’t look at LTFT when in open loop(accelerating). It only looks at LTFT when closed loop (idling or cruising). If the vent elbow did indeed fix the trims, then you would notice both your STFTs trending over 1.


From your initial post, your trims seem to be improving.
 

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After a lot of reading, i haven’t seen anyone else with this specific issue yet.

2012 3.5l fx4 supercab 282K mi
Grill guard and fender flares are the only non stock/OEM items. No catch can or intercooler weep hole.

There is an odd rattle that starts anywhere from 40-80 mph. I seems to only happen while maintaining a speed, typically in 6th gear, but it’s happened in 5th as well. More throttle while it rattles causes it to get louder, releasing the throttle even a little for a split second causes the rattle to stop.
The rattle sounds a bit like shaking a small can of screws, coming from the engine bay.
rattle starts intermittently, and constantly varying speed prevents the rattle from starting.
Idle is just slightly rough, smoothes up when I put it in gear.

No codes are being thrown.
new gapped “.028” sp534 spark plugs.
Oil and air filter have 500 mi on them.
Burning ethonol free 91 octane.
Cleaned 3 intake sensors with crc MAF cleaner.

The alarming part, hooking up my BlueDriver scanner, I’m reading -23 LTFT on bank 2 and -19 on bank 1 at idle. Goes to -12 b2 and -9 b1 LTFT on average while driving around. Accelerating causes STFT to go quite positive, and everything runs happy.
Checked the spark plugs yesterday and they were slightly chalky, showing signs of running lean. Getting 18.8mpg combined city/hw.
It’s making good power, and doesn’t hesitate if I put my foot in it. Sensors all seem to be giving good readings.
My suspects are coils, fuel filter& fuel pump, or even the evap system. However the scanner is reading 200-1890 psi on the fuel rail at idle on the low end to WOT on the high end. Haven’t taken it to redline though to see what max psi gets to.
Mode6 Shows me 1 misfire count on cylinders 2,4,&6, and 0 counts in the last 10 drives at the same time..? I see 1 misfire on those cylinders every time I check mode 6 on multiple 20+ mi drives, however it hasn’t counted up past 2 yet.

I plan on trying some BG injector cleaner In the gas, wipe out intercooler, and bore-scope the intake valves. Previous owner didn’t drive it very hard, so I’m guessing the intake valves are caked, causing the computer to try to lean it out to account for less intake air.

Any ideas what could be causing the rattle or high negative fuel trims is appreciated, even the sarcastic ones lol.
If I solve any of this, I will update.
This could be your high pressure fuel pump. I had one come in the shop one day with similiar story. That thing is so loud when it’s working right they have a dampener on it so you can only imagine when it’s not functioning right or if the gaskets wore down. And I recommend using motorcraft synthetic blend oil, and MC filters in that truck. That’s what the factory calls for for a reason
 

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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
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Big promoter of Motorcraft full synthetic 5-30 and Motorcraft filter here also (y) Keeps my chains quiet !
 

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2013 Screw XTR BCB Tuned
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I'll agree on the MC filter. But only Castrol Magnatec in my truck. I went from rattle on startup once or twice a week, to none at all.
 

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If you can find a good shop that does the walnut blasting for the intake valves you might want to consider that. It's a job worth paying for if the truck needs it.
 

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Let’s not try to start another oil thread but aslong as a MC filter is used, most if not all oils labeled SN+ will suffice. Some just favor certain oils over others.

Hopefully the OP checks back in to see if his results improved. I imagine that pcv valve in the crankcase tube may have been what was causing the rattling and the fuel trims. It does make sense too.

You would know if something was wrong with the HPFP and the truck would know too. Not a lot of people are used to a cam driven HPFP. They’re very loud.
 

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@SrpRacing yea your right about the PCV, I didn’t read the following reply’s/symptoms before I made the suggestion about HPFP. But you should’ve seen the crazy stuff it can cause the engine to do when it isn’t sealed and or malfunctioning. Hope this guy got his truck back up and running again! I just finished a Timing chain/phasers job on my 2012 @89k Thursday and the thing runs like a brand new engine. If anyone needs help doing it and the pictures to go with each step let me know
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Still some good advice going on. The rattle while maintaining speed still occurs...
I disconnected the battery for a couple hours while I worked on the steering whee radio controls. Followed the fuel trim relearn process from my owners manual.
It’s still at -10 B1 and -15 B2 LTFT at idle,
While driving LTFT gets closer to -10 to -6. Those numbers are after a few additional 30 min drives.
I also replaced the 4 damaged ignition coil connectors.
Mode 6 shows no missfires now, where I would see 1 every once in awhile on certain cylinders.
I have been all over this thing looking for leaks, only thing I’ve found was what’s been spilled during oil changes. Which I’ve cleaned and reinspected to verify there are no leaks. It’s been burning 1/2 a quart per 4-5kmi oil change from what I’ve been told.

I still need to get motocraft oil & filter.
I’ll order them with a valve cover gasket for my 06 focus...
I’m getting suspicious of the cam phasers, but I don’t want to be haha. It has the original timing chain though, so I should probably get in there.. I have read that it would throw a code if the timing chain wears to far, or I should hear a racket at startup which I don’t.
 

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Glad you’re making progress. Keep in mind fuel trims have many factors that play into them. Fuel and weather seemed to be the two biggest ones.

How does it drive? I’m curious since now that you’ve fixed the crankcase ventilation, if maybe that will also solve your Oil ingestion.

The truck will throw a code if the timing chain is more than 6 degrees out of time. The 1st gen rattle and the 2nd gen rattle are quite different. 1st gen seemed to be more so an oil filter issues and oil type. There are many threads that go into this so if you’re into a good reading you can search it up.But since you haven’t witnessed the rattle at all, I think you’re in the clear. (Don’t hold that against me tho)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
It drives nice, has plenty of power, shifts are pretty smooth. Idle is smooth 90% of the time, with the 10% rough idle being barely noticeable. Maybe some injector cleaner will smooth it up further, I keep forgetting to add it.
The rattle seems to have a fuel component to it, being throttle dependent?
It’s like you reach the speed you want and you cruise for a half mile or more maintaining speed and it starts rattling, let off the throttle even a little for a split second and it goes away, get on it more while it’s rattling and it gets louder and doesn’t accelerate as much as it normally would relative to that throttle position.
the rattle just keeps occurring at random intervals while maintaining 45MPH and up.

I wonder if it could be the torque converter slipping instead of locking in, or something?
 

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EditA handful of ecoboost experience a rough idle for a brief few seconds and it’s because of the mixture when idling. It’s a tad off. Usually from cheap fuel or low quality fuel. But it wouldn’t hurt to run some cleaner.

When this happens, what gear are you in? Does the problem still occur when it downshifts?

When this happens, what gear are you in? Does the problem still occur when it downshifts?

If it’s not engine related then your IWEs may be trying to engage. In which I would check the blue/clear check valve next to the brake reservoir and see if that is still functioning.

Here’s a thread reference about the IWE check valve.
 

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All ecoboost have a rough idle...
No, no they don’t. That’s a serious over generalization. Been through 3 of these trucks with 3.5’s and they have had no issues what so ever at idle. I don’t see many 2.7 owners making that claim either. Of course there are the Baby Boosts like the 2.3 and 2.0’s. My family has 3 of those also with no issues. I’ll give this to you there are quite a few complaints with regard to smooth idle. It would be more accurate to say that this isn’t an uncommon problem.

@Jacob W, I wonder and would very much like to see what your intake valves look like with respect to deposits.
 

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EditA handful of ecoboost experience a rough idle for a brief few seconds and it’s because of the mixture when idling. It’s a tad off. Usually from cheap fuel or low quality fuel. But it wouldn’t hurt to run some cleaner.

When this happens, what gear are you in? Does the problem still occur when it downshifts?

When this happens, what gear are you in? Does the problem still occur when it downshifts?

If it’s not engine related then your IWEs may be trying to engage. In which I would check the blue/clear check valve next to the brake reservoir and see if that is still functioning.

Here’s a thread reference about the IWE check valve.
What gas treatment do you recommend for gen 1 3.5 di ?
 

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I’ve always been a fan of running Chevron Techron Cleaner. Definitely smoothed the idle out. Tho it doesn’t clean the valves because of DI of course. But it’s another story on my raptor thanks to PI and DI.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well I’ve spun the front tires off the ground. no noise from them. IWE’s have been replace, maybe 100kmi ago though. I will check the valve to be diligent. The sound is different from joeymt33’s video. More tin can noise than ratchet like clunk.

I know the rattle starts in 6th gear, I may have been fooling myself when I mentioned 5th gear previously. It always starts when I’m maintaining speed above 45mph on flat ground. If I’m accelerating or decelerating it doesn’t occur.

I’ve ordered an automotive bore scope. My buddy didn’t want me to scratch his gunsmithing borescope. I’m gonna try to get pictures of the intake valves for you gents.
 

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I know these trucks don’t make too much vacuum but when you put a load on the engine the vacuum supply going to the hub is lost, hence the check valve. If the check valve is no longer existent or failed that can cause the IWEs to try and Lock. Giving you that rattling sound. They may be fine when idling and jacking the truck up but that’s when the vacuum is the highest.

If not that then there’s always that pesky heat Shield rattle on the downpipe running horizontal across the transmission.
 

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Yup I had the heat shield rattle for sure solved it with a gar clamp.
 

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Still some good advice going on. The rattle while maintaining speed still occurs...
I disconnected the battery for a couple hours while I worked on the steering whee radio controls. Followed the fuel trim relearn process from my owners manual.
It’s still at -10 B1 and -15 B2 LTFT at idle,
While driving LTFT gets closer to -10 to -6. Those numbers are after a few additional 30 min drives.
I also replaced the 4 damaged ignition coil connectors.
Mode 6 shows no missfires now, where I would see 1 every once in awhile on certain cylinders.
I have been all over this thing looking for leaks, only thing I’ve found was what’s been spilled during oil changes. Which I’ve cleaned and reinspected to verify there are no leaks. It’s been burning 1/2 a quart per 4-5kmi oil change from what I’ve been told.

I still need to get motocraft oil & filter.
I’ll order them with a valve cover gasket for my 06 focus...
I’m getting suspicious of the cam phasers, but I don’t want to be haha. It has the original timing chain though, so I should probably get in there.. I have read that it would throw a code if the timing chain wears to far, or I should hear a racket at startup which I don’t.
One way to check and see if the chain is stretched is just take the passenger side valve cover off and buy a 15 borescope that plugs into any phone or tablet and run it down to the main tensioner, if it has anymore than 5 teeth out on it your chain is stretched and or phasers bad
 
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