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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
No. I built a cap and sealed it. I don’t want vapors going into intake. Will do once I figure how to get a filtered air only for that hose.

The catch can is huge too. To allow time to get as much vapor filtered as possible.

It’s already trapping oil and that brown liquid in just like 50 miles.


So you are not connected to the vacuum side of the intake manifold???
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I think so. Not a step by step but just the hard parts about it.

Man just following this. Good job and I think this is the first documented DIY engine swap on the forum, if I am not mistaken?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
All still going great... but wow oh wow. Look at how much fluid in just about 1000 miles of driving you can collect! Imagine this now in your intercooler. Collecting overtime...

No wonder I blew my engine.

Imagine this collected in the intercooler and with the right acceleration and conditions it gets sucked in the engine....

So glad I made this catch can filter after learning how it was needed. But never imagined this much would be collected in a short amount of time.
 

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Have you drilled the weep hole? You can still get condensation build up in your intercooler which is a separate issue. I have a catch can and was still getting condensation build up on rainy days, so I drilled the weep hole and haven't had a problem since. Before the weep hole I was driving from my parents (5 hour drive) and it had been raining for about 30 mins to an hour, I mashed the pedal on the right to pass someone and I got a misfire code and the engine went in to limp mode. I had to shift into neutral and restart the truck and it was fine again. I was just glad I didn't have enough condensation build up to destroy my engine. I drilled the hole as soon as I got home. This was on the stock intercooler. I upgraded to a Mishimoto which has a drain plug built in. The exact same thing happened a few months later under the same conditions and at almost the exact same spot with the Mishimoto. I drilled the drain plug on it as soon as I got home. Never had the problem again.
 
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
thanks. rainy days while towing in the mountains always was an issue.
Been wondering that myself about the intercooler holding fluid still.

Will get it drilled as well today.




Have you drilled the weep hole? You can still get condensation build up in your intercooler which is a separate issue. I have a catch can and was still getting condensation build up on rainy days, so I drilled the weep hole and haven't had a problem since. Before the weep hole I was driving from my parents (5 hour drive) and it had been raining for about 30 mins to an hour, I mashed the pedal on the right to pass someone and I got a misfire code and the engine went in to limp mode. I had to shift into neutral and restart the truck and it was fine again. I was just glad I didn't have enough condensation build up to destroy my engine. I drilled the hole as soon as I got home. This was on the stock intercooler. I upgraded to a Mishimoto which has a drain plug built in. The exact same thing happened a few months later under the same conditions and at almost the exact same spot with the Mishimoto. I drilled the drain plug on it as soon as I got home. Never had the problem again.
 

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Being overcharged?

Should I be charged for transmission removal/replacement when having engine replacement performed in my 2011 F150 3.5L? I was quoted $2,300 for engine replacement the mechanic had my truck for over a month before getting started on it I now have an invoice from this mechanic for $3,369.:confused:
Screenshot_20180820-125612.jpg
 

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Should I be charged for transmission removal/replacement when having engine replacement performed in my 2011 F150 3.5L? I was quoted $2,300 for engine replacement the mechanic had my truck for over a month before getting started on it I now have an invoice from this mechanic for $3,369.:confused:
View attachment 151448
Not sure what "Due to engine being up" means, but I removed my engine without removing the trans. I removed the starter and used that hole to access the torque converter nuts.
 

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Maybe he meant the engine was frozen up and it couldn’t be rotated to get the convertor off. If the engine were still running, I think you’ve been stiffed.
 

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Are catch cans and weep holes required for 2018 models?

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I hate to dig up an old thread but hopefully it’ll help people like me who google projects before tackling them. I viewed this thread prior to replacing the engine in a 2013 ecoboost f150 and it had me worried. However, I discovered that literally none of the disassembly of the front of the truck or lifting the cab is necessary. Where did all this bad info come from?? The engine is not very long and it comes right out of the top with the radiator and support all in place. Just unbolt it from the transmission and lift it out! Do not do all that extra stuff for nothing. Attaching a pic to show how there’s plenty of room!!
170249
 

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Ok. The ‘pros’ just lift the cab off.
 

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Ok. The ‘pros’ just lift the cab off.
Yeah I change a motor or two a week and I’m not lifting a cab for no reason. So strange everyone says this is necessary. The top transmission bolts are no more difficult than many other trucks. Thank goodness I tried without doing all this unnecessary bs.
 

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I pulled the rad and condenser and bumper and pulled through front. Kept hood on.

It would be nice to not have to pull all that so you dont have to fill the AC, but raising it straight up like you did, you need a big hoist that is tall or a fork lift. Also, you risk hitting the engine into the fan/rad and breaking those IMO.
 

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I pulled the rad and condenser and bumper and pulled through front. Kept hood on.

It would be nice to not have to pull all that so you dont have to fill the AC, but raising it straight up like you did, you need a big hoist that is tall or a fork lift. Also, you risk hitting the engine into the fan/rad and breaking those IMO.
I have a standard hoist from harbor freight. I pulled the fans and there’s literally 8-10 inches between the radiator and balancer, as you can see. A chevy truck with a v8 is way tighter coming out the top, and no one pulls the radiator support to do those, but yea you do need to take the hood off to go straight up with it.
 

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But dem chevvies are made so simple.
 

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And reliable. A LS can make eco boost noises forever.
My older brother is 100% diehard LS. And not the latest ones either. He keeps 2 of them around because they DO have a lot of mileage and they are both about 15 years old. (Denali-Tahoe style thing and an Escalade)

He buys them for peanuts due to depreciation. And although he has to chase gremlins like parasitic electrical draws and wiper motors,..... his cost per mile of operation is ridiculously low.

I like his strategy, but they are so boring. I'm too frivolous to go that direction.

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I hate to dig up an old thread but hopefully it’ll help people like me who google projects before tackling them. I viewed this thread prior to replacing the engine in a 2013 ecoboost f150 and it had me worried. However, I discovered that literally none of the disassembly of the front of the truck or lifting the cab is necessary. Where did all this bad info come from?? The engine is not very long and it comes right out of the top with the radiator and support all in place. Just unbolt it from the transmission and lift it out! Do not do all that extra stuff for nothing. Attaching a pic to show how there’s plenty of room!! View attachment 170249
I see why this failed..
Your air filter is so poor it's letting zip ties into your engine.
 

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I see why this failed..
Your air filter is so poor it's letting zip ties into your engine.
It still ran. Barely. And it’s for sale. 79k, had two bad turbos, an odd clicking/knocking (not bottom end), and bad misfires. Never overheated or ran out of oil, or ate zip ties lol. $100
 

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It still ran. Barely. And it’s for sale. 79k, had two bad turbos, an odd clicking/knocking (not bottom end), and bad misfires. Never overheated or ran out of oil, or ate zip ties lol. $100
Haha. Nice.. seriously though, you're selling it?
 
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