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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks back I started noticing a little bit of misfire (I thought) during cold acceleration. Once everything was up to full temp I really didn't notice it so I didn't worry about it. This past weekend I noticed it a little more so I thought I'd reflash the tune just to see if maybe it was a glitch or something. Well that wasn't it as in my next drive afterwards it got worse. The condition is under light/medium acceleration, as it starts getting close to a shift power will start surging. I watched my boost guage and noticed boost following the surge. At this point I did a datalog and I can see the throttle angle and boost both start going back and forth with neither matching desired. I tried it stock and with two tunes with the same result which means it's a mechanical/electrical issue with the truck. I'm going to log a few other parameters this morning but I wondered if someone else had similar issues. It also seems to go away with more throttle input but since it has a issue I hate to do that too much.
Thanks Mike
 

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Definitely don't force it to misfire- you will cook the catalytic converters and eat o2 sensors.
Now, the fix will be fixing the condensate problem in the intercooler that is blowing out spark. You need new spark plugs asap... Sp534 gapped.030 stock, or .028 tuned. Next drill the 1/16" weep hole in the intercooler to evacuate the condensate so you never have spark blowout again. Problems solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I don't think it's ignition related. An ignition miss is usually a hard jarring type sensation. This is a power surge where you feel power go in and out. In the datalog you see the throttle actual and desired get off as it try's to open and shut the throttle and with tip boost pressure also doing the same. This is at low thottle with low load. I could be completely wrong though. If the rain lets up this weekend Im going to pull the intercooler and inspect. I'll probably drill the hole then just to rule that out.
Thanks Mike
 

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Could be the mechanical boost bypass valve fluttering around a bit. When it lets off some boost power drops, then it ramp back up. Boost kind of oscillating during some part throttle conditions. I get the same on occasion under the same throttle conditions. I have a tuned 2012 as well. Not sure if aftermarket BOV or tune changes could maybe fix it?
 

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Definitely don't force it to misfire- you will cook the catalytic converters and eat o2 sensors.
Now, the fix will be fixing the condensate problem in the intercooler that is blowing out spark. You need new spark plugs asap... Sp534 gapped.030 stock, or .028 tuned. Next drill the 1/16" weep hole in the intercooler to evacuate the condensate so you never have spark blowout again. Problems solved.
Nonsense. Try again.
 

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I don't think it's ignition related. An ignition miss is usually a hard jarring type sensation. This is a power surge where you feel power go in and out. In the datalog you see the throttle actual and desired get off as it try's to open and shut the throttle and with tip boost pressure also doing the same. This is at low thottle with low load. I could be completely wrong though. If the rain lets up this weekend Im going to pull the intercooler and inspect. I'll probably drill the hole then just to rule that out.
Thanks Mike
have you changed plugs and done the weep hole? Any which way you look, those two items will vastly improve your truck. What you are experiencing is something most ecoboost owners have gone through. Plugs and the weep hole are your fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I went ahead and did the hole at lunch since it was easy to get to. I haven't had the opportunity to drive it yet but oil that good stuff your engine needs came out (crazy it condensates like that and then the oil too). I would be ecstatic if this was it.

Also to answer the questions above it has newer plugs regapped and the sensors were cleaned at the same time. That's been about 6000 miles ago.
Thanks Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well that didn't do anything for my problem. I did another datalog afterwards. I can see what I feel but I don't know why it's doing it. Ughh
 

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^^^^what he said. Quit wasting time with everything else until you've done the most common misfire/shudder fix. Run down to oreillys, spend $50 and a half hour
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just to clarify here's the things I've done:
changed and lowered the gap on new plugs
cleaned the sensors in the inlet and intake
swapped the boost solenoid on top of the intake
checked all vacuum lines
checked all clamps
drilled the intercooler hole (today)
tried stock and two different tunes (same result)
datalogged each tune

I've read and looked at more topics that I care to remember. I've been researching for quite awhile. I was hoping when I asked somebody would say oh yeah I had the same thing. Most people seem to get CEL's, studdering, limp mode etc... but im not getting any of that. The only thing I have at this point is boost fluctuating when this happens (5-7 psi range) which is also seen in the datalog. Tip prs actual and dsd get way off at times too. I went ahead and sent my last datalog to Torrie to see what else looks out of place. Since I can feel it stock I know it's not in any of the tunes.

Thanks Mike
 

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Do a KAM reset now. Get truck up to operating temp. Then do some quick WOT runs. While doing so, check out your passenger mirror for any black 'soot' coming out the tailpipe.

My truck seems to run better after getting that crap out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well it got bad today and I barely made it home. I logged it as I slowly went around the block ( about all it would do). Again tip pressure actual would spike to max along with the throttlebody closing. I felt like the map reading was causing the error but my dealership only had the throttlebody in stock so I gave it a try. I also tried cleaning my map sensor again. Unfortunately neither worked and it is now stuck a the max reading. The wrench light is on and I'm now getting codes P007D and P0238 (which are for it). I'm going to order both map sensors tomorrow and see what happens.
Thanks Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's fixed. Lucky or unlucky, depending on how you view it, the TB replacement caused the codes to show up even though the TB was fine. I ordered both map sensors as I wasn't sure what had happened after I cleaned them. I did some googling using my codes and F150 and found TSB 13-6-12. It says look for frayed wires at the sensor which I didn't have. Technically I was supposed to look elsewhere since it visually looked fine. I decided to clear the codes and crank it. It idled fine so I moved the harness and bam the wrench light came on. I checked it a couple more times with the same result. I wasn't for sure if it was the connector or the sensor that had a bad connection. I picked them both up today and replaced the sensor first. It threw the same codes with a wrench light so I replaced the pigtail and it worked. It was making intermittent connections causing the TIP spikes in my datalogs which was causing the TB to constantly open and close.
Thanks Mike
 

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I'm getting something similar. I think after work tomorrow I will give the harnesses at the sensors a wiggle. I cleaned 2 of the three since they looked dirty/dark... didnt change the color after cleaning them though.. the last one was white and clean looking. I was wondering if it's my sensors that were darker in color. anyone know what they should look like? does it mean they are buggered if darker in color? should they be white all the time?
 
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