[Grim Reaper]

Here I am holding the Y-Tee and Filter from the exit Port straight down, I am 1" too long.

Also you can see the fuel pump is in the OEM location on the other side.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Here, you can see I installed the Walbro pump in the OEM location with the OEM sock filter. It is the ONLY way you can have the pump held into the assembly. If you put it on the otherside (like the modified photo), it will be loose, not held down except with the hoses.

PS: I had to trim both housing (top part) and the ribs inside Filter tabs to make the Walbro fit in the OEM location.

One thought, 99.9% of the F150 use the OEM filter setup. This was always intended to be my first crack, and I was going to modify my original pump when I get it out, as probably my second (and final) modified pump.

When I do my second pump I am going to think more about it, especially if the OEM is identical to the Motorcraft. I may even try to use AN fittings.

 

[Stickerslapper2pointo]

Lol. Visual right!
Here are imagines pulled of the download from full race.

 

[Stickerslapper2pointo]

View attachment 167330

Here I am holding the Y-Tee and Filter from the exit Port straight down, I am 1" too long.

Also you can see the fuel pump is in the OEM location on the other side.

How is your over all size in comparison with the dw400?

I see what you mean about the male connection( nipple ) coming out of the pump.

)

 

[Stickerslapper2pointo]

If you look at these 2 pics side by side it appears that they shortened the y-tee by about 1/4" on each end.
( sorry about the 1/5 typo on last post)
By taking a 1/4" of each ( 1/2) total
You still have 1/4" of barbs and an addition 1/5 of tube .
But to be honest it looks like they took all the barbs( 1/2") off between the filter and tee side.

You could take a 1/2" off each end of tee, leaving a half inch of tube.
You could also take a cut-off wheel and groove the smooth shank to give ridges for better grip for the hose.

Also, you COULD zip off the 1st barb on the filter and still have enough for clamping surface and gain a little real estate . More thoughts.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I have those pictures and instructions from Full-Race. When you tear your pump apart, you'll see the problem. They moved the pump to the otherside, and there is nothing holding the pump in place like the OEM side which I posted a picture.

Also the "sock filter" they show is in the Install Kit, but it's not like the one in the Motorcraft Pump Assembly which I posted the picture, that keeps the pump in place.

 

[Stickerslapper2pointo]

I have those pictures and instructions from Full-Race. When you tear your pump apart, you'll see the problem. They moved the pump to the otherside, and there is nothing holding the pump in place like the OEM side which I posted a picture.

Also the "sock filter" they show is in the Install Kit, but it's not like the one in the Motorcraft Pump Assembly which I posted the picture, that keeps the pump in place.

Those pics, were more for other folks looking in wondering what we were babbling about. You had meantioned you already had some really good pics from rmb.
I figured( like you have already started) you would be adding pics along the way of the process, and I will do the same.
You are letting me solve a few problems before I get into it.
Always nice to see problems before you have to handle them.

 

[Grim Reaper]

PS: I just measured the stock pump, it is 4 3/4", my new pump is 5 3/8".

I am trying to locate some 7/16" hose to do my mockup, as the 3/8" hose is difficult to remove once installed on the barbs without cutting off.

I already have in my mind, how I am going to modify it for this "1st draft". When I get the old assembly out, I will tear it apart and figure out a more permanent solution so I can add a mini filter inside.

I might also look at doing as the final picture you showed, and try swapping the location and moving the pump to the other hole. I just don't like it not being securely held with the oem filter & tabs which I showed. I can foresee that if I go off-road (which I do) that a rough road could make the pump "swing" and move if not held securely like the OEM design.

 

[Stickerslapper2pointo]

PS: I just measured the stock pump, it is 4 3/4", my new pump is 5 3/8".

I am trying to locate some 7/16" hose to do my mockup, as the 3/8" hose is difficult to remove once installed on the barbs without cutting off.

I already have in my mind, how I am going to modify it for this "1st draft". When I get the old assembly out, I will tear it apart and figure out a more permanent solution so I can add a mini filter inside.

I might also look at doing as the final picture you showed, and try swapping the location and moving the pump to the other hole. I just don't like it not being securely held with the oem filter & tabs which I showed. I can foresee that if I go off-road (which I do) that a rough road could make the pump "swing" and move if not held securely like the OEM design.

Being submerge in fuel , I would think that the fuel would act as a damping force during off roading keeping it from really moving to much or forcefully. But it is still a valid concern. Perhaps create "wedges" to keep it firmly in place.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Being submerge in fuel , I would think that the fuel would act as a damping force during off roading keeping it from really moving to much or forcefully. But it is still a valid concern. Perhaps create "wedges" to keep it firmly in place.

Or act as an additional force if the fuel is constantly swishing around. And then you definitely don't want to run your tank low either.

But, I keep thinking, not too many people have reported LPFP issues due to the stock oem filter getting clogged? It MIGHT be a contributing factor why some guys (like me) have a weaker LPFP ... possibly it is partially clogged. I will find out shortly when I swap out the old LFPF Assembly.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I put the OEM lpfp in the box my Walbro 450lph came in. The Walbro was tight in the box. The stock oem lpfp is between 3/4" to 1" shorter.

Looking at your DW, I think it is very close in total height to my Walbro 450.

If you are not quite ready, let me build my mockup first. I should have that hose sometime this week (7/16" i.d. hose is tough to find - it's an unusual diameter) ... but 7/16" will fit tight enough to make good mockup, but not so tight like the proper 3.8", that I should be able to easily remove them.

When I get it finalized in the 3/8" 30R10 hose, I will show a picture with lengths I used, especially as your DW is very close in total height to my Walbro 450.

 

[Stickerslapper2pointo]

Or act as an additional force if the fuel is constantly swishing around. And then you definitely don't want to run your tank low either.

But, I keep thinking, not too many people have reported LPFP issues due to the stock oem filter getting clogged? It MIGHT be a contributing factor why some guys (like me) have a weaker LPFP ... possibly it is partially clogged. I will find out shortly when I swap out the old LFPF Assembly.

View attachment 167345

I put the OEM lpfp in the box my Walbro 450lph came in. The Walbro was tight in the box. The stock oem lpfp is between 3/4" to 1" shorter.

Looking at your DW, I think it is very close in total height to my Walbro 450.

If you are not quite ready, let me build my mockup first. I should have that hose sometime this week (7/16" i.d. hose is tough to find - it's an unusual diameter) ... but 7/16" will fit tight enough to make good mockup, but not so tight like the proper 3.8", that I should be able to easily remove them.

When I get it finalized in the 3/8" 30R10 hose, I will show a picture with lengths I used, especially as your DW is very close in total height to my Walbro 450.

I ended up filling up Friday with out thinking about. So no pump install this weekend.
Kinda glad tho, Ive been going none stop for about 2 months straight I needed a weekend to lounge around play with the girls and have a little down time.
Might shoot for next weekend if this weeks work load isnt to bad.

I am really looking forward to see if i can get some of my liw end torque back. ( torrie eased back on the initial boost to minimize frp drop. )
But he still has it hitting over. 50lbs. /min on 22 psi peak boost.
Mind you I'm stock except fuel. .

I think next mods will be down pipes, turbo Adapters ( might port my manifolds) and cac. ( but i going with a universal 1100cfm intercooler and hand made hard pipes.
I am really wondering if it is necessary to spend the big bucks getting the brand name intercooler/piping.
But that is another thread in itself.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I found some 3/8" Spark Plug wire covers that easily slid on to the 3/8" barbs and can be easily removed.

I took two angles so you can see that my pump is in the OEM spot and there is a slight angle to my proposed piping. The bottom hose is 3 1/2" and 3" on top (male fuel connector on Walbro is 1/2" longer than male connector on Pump Assembly). This places the Y-Tee pretty much in the middle.

I mocked up the internal oem FPR I pulled from the Assembly. The hose is intentionly shorter to show the FPR. In reality, I will put it lower to keep the FPR as lower into the empty basket closer to the bottom. But I wanted people to clearly see I am installing the oem FPR.

Now that I have rough measurements, I am going to cut my 30R10 hose to the above stated sizes, TRIM if I have to, to get a final mockup before I actually clamp it.

I am still waiting for my single ear stainless Taukealug clamps for 3/8" i.d. hose to do my final build. If it weren't so darn hard to remove the 3/8" hose, I would cut and mockup with my 30R10 hose.

 

[looqw]

@Blown F-150 what other mods does @looqw have?

I too am curious of the results and the similarities and differences. I know that whatever the results, before I get my GTs and Manifolds installed, I will have my XDI-35 installed. I also need to have all my favourites (Straight Premium, Stock w/speed limiter off for Dyno, and a bunch of Ethanol tunes all the way to pure E85 (which measures at E65). I also still have some jugs of pure methanol to increase it to actual E85.

PS: I have never done a mixture of my pure E85 mixed with 25% pure methanol. I would like to see if the visual tester still works.

Sorry for the late response havent been on here in a while..

Mods are in my signature but are:
XDI-35
MBRP 4" Catback w/Flo Pro Twister Resonator
MBRP 3" Downpipes
AMS Turbo adapters
AFE Intake
CPe intercooler
Turbosmart BOV
AEM Water/meth
NGK one step colder plugs
Motorcraft 180T-stat
Saudi Raptor Trans cooler
WMS Catch can and CSS
SCT X4 Tuned by Gearhead and Boostking

I havent had a chance to run Ethanol with it yet, but with the new pump the desired pressure and actual stay at nearly the same number throughout the rpm, there is no large dip in the low rpm anymore. This would tell me the 35 is keeping up in the low end and that the factory in tank is providing it with enough fuel.. I am going to ask brett if it would be safe to try out some e30 on the same tune and see if it will still maintain the desired psi.

I dynod the truck last year but all I had at the time was intake and downpipes so it made 384/463 on my gearhead AO tune running 94 but with the OAR in the positives at the time...

 

[Grim Reaper]

..I am going to ask brett if it would be safe to try out some e30 on the same tune and see if it will still maintain the desired psi.

You can try "sneaking up at it" ... to see if the HPFP is keeping up. And if all is good, just get Brett to prepare you an E30 (or whatever you plan).

Start with E20 (that is all I can push right now, until I insert my LPFP Assembly and see the result). Then keep increasing until you hit your desired E85 concentration. I expect @Blown F-150 has shown you how to determine the true concentration of Ethanol in the fuel. If not, I have a cheap method using graduated cylinders, which I found more accurate and cheaper than the Ethanol concentration bottle I bought on Amazon. Also, I throw a lot less Fuel away with the graduated cylinders than the Bottle. On Amazon, they show a marks from E0-E100. But in reality, it only goes from E0-20 and E80-100. From E20-E80 it is BLANK, and the best you can do is "guess" if it is in "no man's land".

Once I get my fueling resolved, I will then get a few different tunes. E30, E40, E50 and E85 pure (which is E65).

Also, post the results if you can. Preferrably a "before & after"; and I will do the same. I do have my XDI-35 waiting to be installed, either if the LPFP doesn't do the trick or when I decided to upgrade my Turbos.

 

[looqw]

You can try "sneaking up at it" ... to see if the HPFP is keeping up. And if all is good, just get Brett to prepare you an E30 (or whatever you plan).

Start with E20 (that is all I can push right now, until I insert my LPFP Assembly and see the result). Then keep increasing until you hit your desired E85 concentration. I expect @Blown F-150 has shown you how to determine the true concentration of Ethanol in the fuel. If not, I have a cheap method using graduated cylinders, which I found more accurate and cheaper than the Ethanol concentration bottle I bought on Amazon. Also, I throw a lot less Fuel away with the graduated cylinders than the Bottle. On Amazon, they show a marks from E0-E100. But in reality, it only goes from E0-20 and E80-100. From E20-E80 it is BLANK, and the best you can do is "guess" if it is in "no man's land".

Once I get my fueling resolved, I will then get a few different tunes. E30, E40, E50 and E85 pure (which is E65).

Also, post the results if you can. Preferrably a "before & after"; and I will do the same. I do have my XDI-35 waiting to be installed, either if the LPFP doesn't do the trick or when I decided to upgrade my Turbos.

Yeah, before I bug brett to make an e30 specific one or higher I will see how it reacts to a bit of E at a time.
Also he hasnt shown me how to determine true concentration however, if my memory serves me correct he has explained that he tested our only local place to get e85 and its actually measured out to be better than e85 everytime.

Yeah for sure, you just want to see the Desired vs actual graphs w/ rpm graphs?

 

[Blown F-150]

Yeah, before I bug brett to make an e30 specific one or higher I will see how it reacts to a bit of E at a time.
Also he hasnt shown me how to determine true concentration however, if my memory serves me correct he has explained that he tested our only local place to get e85 and its actually measured out to be better than e85 everytime.

Yeah for sure, you just want to see the Desired vs actual graphs w/ rpm graphs?

You have my cell. text whenever.

 

[looqw]

You have my cell. text whenever.

haha unfortunately for you, you know I do already 😅. I just figured what you told me originally about the E here was good enough that I didnt have to bug you about it!

 

[Grim Reaper]

@looqw The problem is, the concentration level can vary each time they get their tanks topped up with new fuel. And without knowing the concentration when you are fueling up, can result in inproper calculation of the E% in your tank.

When I get home, I will take a picture of the first Ethanol Tester I bought. I am not going to use it anymore as I get better results using my graduated cylinders. If you want it, it's yours. Or I can tell you my "formula" for using a graduated cylinder, which gets a more exact number. Initially, I used a 10 ml, but it was too small. I now use a 25 ml cylinder for "quick estimates", and my 100 ml cylinder for exact measurements. The amount of water you need to mix is only 50% of the gas/ethanol you are going to measure.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Well, I finally got the parts I needed to complete my LPFP Assembly. All I have left to do is the wires and installing the basket that holds this part.

I tried to take a couple of angles so you can see the slight bend I put so the unit can still compress a bit.

Without some "elbows", I would not be able to install the Jegs Mini Filter with the pump in the OEM position. I would have to swap the spot where I currently have my FPR tee'd off. The FPR has a couple of inches off the bottom to all it to have some movement too.

The only way I could install a Jegs Mini Filter (removing the barbs won't work - still not enough room), would be to swap the location from what I am doing (OEM style) to what they are showing in Full-Race. You would need to leave a couple of inches with the "straight design" (much like I did with the FPR) and that would give some compress-ability.