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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all new to the place here and seeking advice or anything at this point. I have a 2013 3.5 ecoboost that I've put the timing chain and phasers in after turbos and all that jazz and now I'm getting oil in my coolant and now I'm down because of overheating. The duck butter in the cooling system I thought was clogging the thermostat so I removed it so I could get some flow and flush it out a lilbit but now I don't think the water is even pumping. When I had the timing chain and what not done I had them put a new water pump on so thats brand new although I know withbthe oil in the water it could have failed I guess. The water line from the resivior that goes down and hits a t that goes into I believe the water pump gets really hot but then past that t where it goes up to the heater core is just as cool as you could imagine. Does anyone have any experience in this area? Thanks in advance
 

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So you still have oil in your coolant? If you want to throw parts at it I would start by replacing the oil cooler, they are fairly cheap if you're handy and can be done with an oil change. Would be a good opportunity to drain the oil and let it separate to see if there's coolant in it. You don't want to be running diluted oil, it will wear the motor like nobody's business. The first order of business is to make sure you are no longer mixing oil and coolant. I would probably do a combustion leak test to check for a blown head gasket as well, something like this Amazon.com: UView 560000 Combustion Leak Tester: Automotive

The line from the water pump to the heater core actually flows in the other direction. It starts at the rear of the heads from a plastic crossover #8. The end of the crossover has a hose #9 with a restrictor #11 which goes to the heater core #12. It then flows through the heater core, and returns from the firewall via #2 towards the water pump, tying in right behind the thermostat #23. There are two sets of restrictors on the heater core, my guess is the inlet restrictor is clogged (#11) so you're getting little to no flow through the heater core. Does the heater work? Here's a diagram.
173400
 

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Welcome to the forum, sorry it is due to an issue such as this.

DNA hit it pretty spot on, although I would inquire as to how long after the major surgery (timing components) did this occur? Or was it after the turbos were replaced, you say?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply guys. So yes sir my heat does not work and when I pulled the lines off I eventually got some flow out of #9 and I wanna say that after that the system accepted a little more water than it purged another big ol turd of duckbutter out of #9 and haven't been able to get anymore water to flow into it . Also I'm doing this without a thermostat because I thought it my hinder my efforts to purge all the duckbutter I could outvto get me back rolling again because I am about 850 miles from home working on walmarts in Indiana. Im gonna try to replace the oil cooler because I've heard those two words more then any other ones besides blown head gasket . Oh and this as far as I can tell didn't start until I had the timing chain and phasers and water pump changed just about a month ago. Again thank you gor your time.
 

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Since this started after the open heart surgery, I'd be concerned the water pump or something isn't sealed properly. Who did the work? Is it possible to take it back to them?

Regarding the solids in the coolant system, sounds like you need to flush that all out to be able to tell if it's still happening. I don't know how you dissolve that stuff. Perhaps flush the system with simple green or something that can dissolve it? I'd only do this if you have access to a hose and can fully rinse it out. Even if you can get that line clear, I'm not sure you want to drive it in that condition without flushing it. I think you'll run into an overheat regardless or just lodge more gunk in the coolant passages and oil cooler again.

For now, the heater inlet core restrictor sounds like it's plugged up and not allowing the system to burp itself. Not sure if this piece comes out without removing the heater core, but looks like it should. You can bypass the heater core entirely by routing the exit line straight to the rear manifold. You'd have to cut the fitting off the end so the hose can just slip on the manifold with a hose clamp.
 
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