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griz_king

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 eco 3.5 with a SCT tuner. When pulling a 7k Trailer in a hill you can watch the temp gauge climb rapidly. If you let off the gas some, temp goes down. It only does this in a hard pull. Any advice?

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When you say you're watching the temp gauge...are you talking about the one in the dash (the needle) or are you using your SCT X4 or another data reading device (like Torque Pro) to see an actual number for the coolant temp?

If the later, what are the temps you're seeing?

If you're not running something to see temps being tuned and towing...I'd definitely consider it. It's hard for us to give advice without actual data/hard numbers and how you got them.
 
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I think the only way to combat this issue in which I have experienced several times, is to go to an aftermarket CAC & Radiator.
Mine is a 14` and I typically tow a 33' 8k TT in 118° ambient temps (AZ) in June , July, August-mixed in with a lot of 7% grades.
Truck has plenty of power especially on 5*'s p/t tune.....it's keeping cool under extreme conditions.
I've had a few personal set backs, but I have a 170° T to install and a FR Radiator.
I sent my Wagner back, and feel that the FR CAC would be the best for my application.
I've had my truck (several times) and trailer (for them to inspect the; height, weight, width etc..lol) at my Ford dealership. :frown:
I've had the latest ECM/PCM refresh etc...
Truck is a pulling beast.
Their is NO OTHER 1/2 TON that can hang with the boost-period.
A good tune helps, but Ford should have just applied across the board HD hardware with all Max Tow trucks IMO.
Just needs a little tweaking.....
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
When you say you're watching the temp gauge...are you talking about the one in the dash (the needle) or are you using your SCT X4 or another data reading device (like Torque Pro) to see an actual number for the coolant temp?

If the later, what are the temps you're seeing?

If you're not running something to see temps being tuned and towing...I'd definitely consider it. It's hard for us to give advice without actual data/hard numbers and how you got them.
It's on the stock gauge. Climbs to the point that the reduced power warning kicks in. Don't know that number. You can watch the needle climb when in a hill hard pull. Reduce gas and it will go down

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It's on the stock gauge. Climbs to the point that the reduced power warning kicks in. Don't know that number. You can watch the needle climb when in a hill hard pull. Reduce gas and it will go down

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Hmm...if it's getting that hot I'd definitely recommend keeping your SCT X4 plugged in and watch the temps as you drive normally w/o towing anything. You shouldn't be getting about 195-200 on normal flat ground. Mine will go up from 195 to 206-209 when I pull a 6% grade for 2 miles straight with the truck locked in 5th gear and at 62 mph (rpm about 2150 and boost about 8 psi)...and I have a stock radiator and thermostat. Towing a load will obviously make them higher, but it'd be on the safe side to know what it's doing on normal, everyday driving.

Reason I say get it hooked up and start looking at data is to see if you've got a faulty thermostat or something that isn't opening until too late, or not opening enough, etc. If you can get that data it'd be quite beneficial.

Also, what are the outside temps and weather like when this happened?
 
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Return to stock config. Determine if situation repeats. If it does you look at vehicle hardware. If not, you look at SCT tune. It is not uncommon for a person to be running a performance tune with increased boost while towing - instead of a towing or lower performance tune. You can go to a 170 t-stat and bigger radiator then learn that those little turbos stay under pressure for extendedperiods and unable to get the exhaust out - it will still get hot on a performance tune.
 
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OP, do you have the max tow package from Ford?

Whats your rear gear ratio?

A 170 T stat will help initially. It might give you an extra min or two of towing before hitting high temp. It will not prevent it.

A larger radiator will definitely help, but IMHO shouldn't be necessary unless your towing heavy, full throttle up a hill.

What's your Mileage?

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well, i have a 2013 3.5 and experience the heat issue as well. coming back from ABQ to LAX i had to stop 4 times to let it cool down. i had an FR CAC and meth injection system working in hopes of not overheating. also 3' Catless downpipes. i was pulling a 6x12 uhaul, and the EGT's would start to climb right along with every hill. (the problem is the super long drawn out ROUTE 66 hills you just wish would stop!) I later found out that i was doing 2 things wrong. I had the 5* sct4 set to 91 perf., and didn't have the "tow/HAUL" switch on the shifter activated. hence the converter was slipping and over gearing. i also had 3.31:1 rear gears with 35" tires. I've since changed to 4.56:1 rear gears, and 37" tires. i use the "tow/haul" button, and seem to have slightly less issues, yet i still have issues. My next steps (considering i am building this into a pre runner) are triple oil / trans coolers in the bed cage, a FR replacement radiator, and larger turbos. i'm hoping that with a 12x14 oil cooler before and after the turbos it will keep the heatsoak down. BUT THESE ENGINES OBVIOUSLY SHARE A COMMONALITY. HEAT SOAK
 
well, i have a 2013 3.5 and experience the heat issue as well. coming back from ABQ to LAX i had to stop 4 times to let it cool down. i had an FR CAC and meth injection system working in hopes of not overheating. also 3' Catless downpipes. i was pulling a 6x12 uhaul, and the EGT's would start to climb right along with every hill. (the problem is the super long drawn out ROUTE 66 hills you just wish would stop!) I later found out that i was doing 2 things wrong. I had the 5* sct4 set to 91 perf., and didn't have the "tow/HAUL" switch on the shifter activated. hence the converter was slipping and over gearing. i also had 3.31:1 rear gears with 35" tires. I've since changed to 4.56:1 rear gears, and 37" tires. i use the "tow/haul" button, and seem to have slightly less issues, yet i still have issues. My next steps (considering i am building this into a pre runner) are triple oil / trans coolers in the bed cage, a FR replacement radiator, and larger turbos. i'm hoping that with a 12x14 oil cooler before and after the turbos it will keep the heatsoak down. BUT THESE ENGINES OBVIOUSLY SHARE A COMMONALITY. HEAT SOAK
So what did your EGTs rise to when you pulled over? Also what was your ECT?
 
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I find Keeping the rpms above 2200 when towing (ie, lockout higher gears or manually shift) will keep boost and load down, which helps to keep temps lower. Depending on your load, speed and terrain, obviously that will only go so far, but it def pays off.
 
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FYI, If you have 3.31 gears from the factory i believe you dont have the max tow package. Which includes a larger factory radiator
 
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Also, it's not the best idea to run the perf tune while towing.
5* adds that you still need to use the tow/haul mode (button) while using its tow tune.
A 6x12 trailer isn't much weight at all....so I'm not sure why your Temps were getting into the yellow screen.
It's obvious that the stock Ford radiator is a problem area, simply because you have the FR CAC and meth installed.
Put a tow tune on, a 170°T, and use your tow/haul button.
After that a FR Radiator should fix her.


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EcoRaptor13....now that I think about this.
Having that FR CAC blocking the stock radiator my be causing some cooling issues?
I know that Full Race's Freak-o-Boost had their CAC & Radiator upgrade.....well, and many more mods aka bigger turbos etc...
Pointing towards the radiator upgrade.


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EcoRaptor13....now that I think about this.
Having that FR CAC blocking the stock radiator my be causing some cooling issues?
I know that Full Race's Freak-o-Boost had their CAC & Radiator upgrade.....well, and many more mods aka bigger turbos etc...
Pointing towards the radiator upgrade.


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Thays why I'd like to see his data logs with ECTs...
 
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Are you guys that are overheating still running stock grills or aftermarket? Just wondering if airflow has been restricted and causing issues.
 
I guess it is hard to tell...but it's a black bar grill-lol

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