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Bought my 2013 EB in early 14 new to tow my 29' trailer. It worked great and performed as expected. Then after 50K or so miles, it started overheating. Ford said it was the intercooler and changed it...nope...still overheats but only towing....I've learned to slow down, gear down and keep rpm around 2500 and it will run just under the red zone of limpness. I took it in to a friend's shop for brakes and they noticed leaking at the water pump weep hole. When they pulled the pump, the attached pic is what is causing my overheat...be advised, this could be your problem too...I'm looking forward to normal towing again. Blessings y'all...
Automotive tire Wood Vehicle brake Tire Gas
 

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Based on the coolant flow diagram, the water pump is forcing coolant toward the block. I wonder if all these overheated trucks have a bunch of broken fins collected in their blocks :unsure: My truck was bought used, so who knows how many times the water pump was changed on it.

Are you using the yellow coolant?

Organism Font Auto part Diagram Plan
 
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That is nuts.. I didn't know those fins could grind off like that. Maybe a piece of metal shaved off somewhere and every time it looped around it took another small chunk off?
I have an upgraded misimoto intercooler, full race gen 1 radiator, excursion transmission cooler and I still get toasty up hills. I'm planning on posting my own thread on this, but I installed two heater cores in the front of my truck and routed water hoses to them. One where hose 16 is, and the other where hose 4 is - so my water is going from bottom of the blocks to the heater cores, and then to the turbo. I put water sensors in the to/from heater core line on the drivers side so I can see the temperatures from the bottom of the block, and what is returning to the turbo. If that doesn't solve my problem the next thing I'll look at is replacing the water pump... I'll be so mad if mine looks just like yours haha

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Apparently my waterpump fins are good ...
I hope I don't need to change it before tearing down for the chains one of these days.
 
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My pump was completely fine when i changed it last year but I still had problems with overheating. It sure would cause the issue but is not the only reason.
 

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That is nuts.. I didn't know those fins could grind off like that. Maybe a piece of metal shaved off somewhere and every time it looped around it took another small chunk off?
I have an upgraded misimoto intercooler, full race gen 1 radiator, excursion transmission cooler and I still get toasty up hills. I'm planning on posting my own thread on this, but I installed two heater cores in the front of my truck and routed water hoses to them. One where hose 16 is, and the other where hose 4 is - so my water is going from bottom of the blocks to the heater cores, and then to the turbo. I put water sensors in the to/from heater core line on the drivers side so I can see the temperatures from the bottom of the block, and what is returning to the turbo. If that doesn't solve my problem the next thing I'll look at is replacing the water pump... I'll be so mad if mine looks just like yours haha

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Definitely interested in hearing if this helps. Sounds like you put a lot of work into it. I decided to cool the oil figuring there was no way to tame the coolant beast. I hope it works!
 

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My pump was completely fine when i changed it last year but I still had problems with overheating. It sure would cause the issue but is not the only reason.
My thought was that a previous broken fin clogged some vital passageway. Have you owned since new? As for the OEM oil cooler, I will be replacing mine and looking for clogging, corrosion, that could be affecting performance.
 
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My thought was that a previous broken fin clogged some vital passageway. Have you owned since new? As for the OEM oil cooler, I will be replacing mine and looking for clogging, corrosion, that could be affecting performance.
Yes, since new.
 

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Is it just me ? Are the fins at a different angle on the new pump?
They are. Im fairly sure the pump I got is for a 3.7L even though i ordered the correct part for the F150.

The pump is identical to the factory pump except for the impeller. I asked a lot of people what they thought, including the tech guys at Evans coolant, and everyone said the new pump should flow more. And based on the temperatures ive seen, that appears to be true.
 

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The fins also appear to be larger. I don't know why they had to go to this "paddlewheel" design, It's so inefficient compared to an impeller.
 

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It dumb no one makes a high flow pump on purpose.

I will say that the pump I used was installed at the same time as my Mishimoto radiator. By all accounts, my radiator outlet temps should have decreased with the mishimoto, however, what I have found is that they actually stayed the same or increased slightly. This suggests to me that the new pump does in fact move more volume which means the coolant is passing throught the radiator faster, giving it less time to cool.

The side effect being that the average radiator temperature is higher for a given radiator inlet temperature(temperature coming out of the motor), which means more heat is being shed. So between the larger radiator shedding more heat while also becoming more efficient due to the higher average temperature it has helped tremendously.
 
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Also, just an FYI, this is what Rockauto shows for the ACDelco pump for a 2014 3.7L F150:

Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system Tool Auto part


And this is the ACDelco 3.5 Ecoboost pump for 2014:

Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system Font Bicycle drivetrain part



So it looks like maybe the ACDelco 3.7L pump would be the way to go if anyone is feeling frisky and wants to try to "high flow" route.
 
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