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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. This was discussed some time ago but I don't see a resolution. I have a '13 platinum with factory HIDs and the driver side is slow to go down from high beam. There's a solenoid in the assembly that pulls the shade down for high beams and then releases it up to block the light for low beams...but mine is very slow to go back down. Worse when it's cold. Is this a part that can be replaced? I can't find anything on it. Does the entire headlight assembly need to be replaced? If so, may as well upgrade for what they're getting for a set of OEM lights. Thanks!
 

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Likely can be replaced, but if you're going to get into them (opening them up) then you might as well do a projector swap, bulb and ballast upgrade. You'll be happier in the long run.
 

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Yup the headlight has to be opened up so as stated, a EVOXr projector has the exact same mount and you can run D2S bulbs with 35 or 55w Morimoto ballasts.
 

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Have you taken it to a dealer to see if they can provide you with any resolution? It might still be under some form of warranty...
 

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Have you taken it to a dealer to see if they can provide you with any resolution? It might still be under some form of warranty...
This ^^^^^. I think there may be a TSB out there for these. There have been reports of the shutter sometimes not coming back at all from high beam when it's cold out. It's been a while but I believe you can bend a tab or something inside for more clearance. Have to take out the headlight from the truck, and hid bulb to access inside, but I would check with dealer first, as you may get a new replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have not gone to the dealer yet. I'm under mileage for warranty but over on time. Appreciate the input, I will take it in just for grins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Will do. Go insight. Thanks for taking the time to reply. First step will be the dealer...otherwise I may just upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How do you open them up? I heard it's quite a process...baking them or something? Not sure I'm qualified to do that kind of work on it...might be safer (although more expensive) to just buy new complete assemblies.
 

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You could always try to find new assemblies online, maybe takeoffs, and then send your set off to Dawson @ RaptorRetrofit for a complete upgrade.
 

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Have not gone to the dealer yet. I'm under mileage for warranty but over on time. Appreciate the input, I will take it in just for grins.
Let us know what you find out at the dealership, mcawson. I'll be here if you need any help after your appointment.

Crystal
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
They quoted me $675 to fix it. Unreal. From what he was describing, I think they are basically re-using my lamp in a new headlight. I can upgrade both sides for that much and then turn around and sell my good side to recover half the cost!
 

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Yes basically all they will do is buy a replacement OEM decontented headlamp and swap your bulb and ballast into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dealer wants $675 to fix this. Pretty sure they would just buy a new assembly and swap lamps. What a joke that there are moving/electonic parts in these things that aren't serviceable. If the shade actuator could be replaced, it would probably be a $100 fix. #terribleengineering
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So I asked a guy on Ebay a question about an OEM assembly he had and he told me that there is a way to lubricate the projector "push rod". I agree that if I could do this it would solve my problem for less than a dollar...but how do I access the "push rod"? Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is there a way to lubricate the push rod/solenoid for the projector? Guy on Ebay says there is. How do I gain access to this? Access to it without baking it open is the only think keeping me from making a very simple fix.
 

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Pull the head light pull the ballast off the bottom and pull the bulb out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Done. Worked like a charm. Put a drop of light oil on the tip of along screwdriver and reached in to apply it to the shutter actuator. Exercised it once and it instantly started to spring back like it should. Can't believe that a dealer wouldn't offer that as a solution, even with a disclaimer that it might need to be done again at some point. Lousy customer service there. Sad thing is they read these forums and educate their staff with our postings, when we know fixes are possible without gouging the client. Anyway, thanks to everyone who posted here to help with my solution!
 
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