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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am the proud new owner of a 2013 SuperCrew XLT wleadshe my Ford stereo. I'm now making plans to get rid of the factory crap and do my own setup. I have a few questions for people who have installed their own already

1. does the factory stereo attenuate the bass frequencies at higher volumes? I have heard yes, & I have heard no. the latest that I have heard is that is attenuated the rears but does not attenuate the fronts. Can anyone verify what is true?

2. it seems that the PAC unit for the Fords does not work with the 2013 stereo. That leaves the option of tapping into the front speaker wires and using a processor or line out converter. Where did you guys tap into your speaker wires? Is there access to the wires near the kick panels or do I have to go back behind the stereo? can anyone give me the color codes of the wires?

3. where are you guys drawing your remote turn on leads from?
 

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First thing I always do is upgrade the stereo -- from my 3 BMWs, to my jeep, etc. Below is what I have planned for my F150 w/ keeping factory system intact. Doing performance mods first this time around though. You could cut some corners from what I'm doing, but I'd keep the DSP units in place.

I have the Sony system and plan the following:

4x JL Audio C5-570's -- the tweeters can either be utilized as component or coax. Thus, in the front, you can use the tweeter posts and in the back, leave them off, or use the coax configuration.
JL Audio C5-570 Evolution™ C5 Series 5"x7" component speaker system ? also fits 6"x8" openings at Crutchfield.com
Summing interface -- this essentially adds your channels back together, so your F/R-chans would be summed with the sub chan. CL-SSI - Car Audio - OEM Interface - OEM Integration - JL Audio
DSP level -- per your question regarding attenuation, this unit produces a flat output within +/-1 dB CL441dsp - Car Audio - OEM Interface - OEM Integration - JL Audio
EQ -- this would then allow you to adjust that flat output to your desired setting. I listen to country, so I boost the highs and midbass. AudioControl EQS (Gray) Trunk-mount 6-channel equalizer and line driver at Crutchfield.com
EQ output goes into amps, I like these small Alpine units (they stack) and have excellent SNR
4chan AMP 100W x 4 into 4ohms: Alpine PDX-F4 4-channel car amplifier — 100 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com
Mono AMP 600W x 1 into 4ohms: Alpine PDX-M6 Mono sub amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com
Sub: Haven't decided yet, maybe this 13.5" JL Audio 13TW5v2-4 Shallow-mount 13.5" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
If I need another, I'll just add a separate enclosure.

Hope that helps. I plan to get it professionally installed as I'll probably want 12ga wire run from the 4chan to the speakers and I have the NAV (which I plan on leaving), so I cant speak to the PAC unit or wiring. If you plan on leaving the stock unit, the summing interface -> DSP level -> EQ is what you really need to produce the best sound, the rest of the stuff is personal preference. If you use an aftermarket unit, you can send the pre-outs straight into the amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for all that. I dont have the sony system, so it doesnt seem like I will need summing, as my front speakers seem to get a full-range signal. I think what Im going to do is get a 4 channel to match my sub amp, as they have speaker level inputs, tap into the front speaker leads at the kickpanel and run those to the amps and see how it sounds. If I need some sound contouring ill rock an audiocontrol EQL, which will convert the speaker leads to RCAs. replace the front speakers with some components and the rears with some coaxials, throw a pair of 10s under the seat and call it done. I really wish I had room to use the sub I had in my last truck, but it wont fit under the seat and I cant sacrifice any passenger space for a sub box
 

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I prefer the Audio LCQ-1 for the integration.
http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/17612/712451/OEM-Integration/LCQ--1----Six-Channel-Line-Output-Converter-with-Equalization-and-AccuBASS.htm

I just picked up Two Alpine Type-s subs and alpine PDX 1.1000. Going to use a down fire ported box.

subs need .75-1.3 ft of air space each and with this box 2.05 it's plenty and it's tuned to 36hrtz. That's where these speakers need to be.. Have a friend who has this box with one kicker 10" sounds pretty damn good. Here is the box I've ordered.
http://www.foxacoustics.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=F150-SC-210-V-09

SO TWO down fire 10s and 1000 watts should be nice.
im picking up some MB QUART 6.5 components for the doors and haven't decided on the front amp yet , but will probably be alpine as we'll.
I'll make some mounting plates to go from 5.7 to the 6.5 speaker size.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I prefer the Audio LCQ-1 for the integration.
Why, exactly? I dont have the sony, so I wont need the summing or bass restoration. The EQL gives me a 13 band equalizer vs the 6 band for the LCQ-1 and I will only need 2 inputs, not 6. I wont do anything with the rear channels. I MIGHT put a pair of coaxials back there run off the stock stereo but I usually dont use rear speakers in my systems
 

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I have the sony NAV so I need it for the bass restoration accu bass also I will be running a 4ch amp and a sub so I need 3 inputs.
If you want to keep fade you need an 8 channel processor. RF High/RF Mid/LF High/LF Mid/RR Highpass/LR Highpass/R Lowpass/L Lowpass
 

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I'm going to just use LF,RF AND RL, RR and sub. The LCQ-1 just needs to see the mid signal from output from one of the channels on each door from the factory amp to work and one from the sub.
Not sure why fade wouldn't work, but I keep them even anyway and if need be Ill use the gain on the LCQ-1 to adjust the level of the fronts and rears if I find that the fade doesn't work like you say.
My components have separate crossovers so I'll mount those in each door and run new speaker wire from crossover to the stock tweet in the pillars and from the crossovers to the amps. I don't need to tie into the front highs. You don't need to run signal from your highs if your using aftermarket speakers and components. If your keeping the stock speakers then I can see why you might want to have a 8ch..
if your using aftermarket speakers then no you don't. The 8 channel will give you flexibility to run your tweeters to the amps.
in my configuration I'm running the tweeters to their crossover and running signal from the crossover to the amplifier so there for I don't need a 8ch.
Also as the volume goes up the bass is reduced on the output signal from the factory amp in our trucks which is not good when we are using some type of OEM integration no mater if your using a PAC interface , Audio Control, Rockford Fosgate With the LCQ-1 it can detect this and with the bass restoration will compensate and up the signal to sub amp and keep the bass up while volume increases.Also the LCQ-1 is 200.00 cheaper.
 

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The rockford isn't too expensive on Amazon. I'm not quite clear on what you're trying to do. The front right and left channels from the nav each have two signals -- High for the tweeters and mid -- that are physically separate. You need to sum these to get the full-range output that the R/L rear has. If you just use the mid signal, as it seems like you're proposing, you'll lose the high signal. Using the crossover at the speaker as you're suggesting wont do anything because you wont have any high frequencies to begin with.

So for the front there are separate leads for:
+/- R Tweet
+/- R Mid
+/- L Tweet
+/- L Mid

The rear has:
+/- R Fullrange
+/- L Fullrange

Sub has:
+/- R Low Pass
+/- L Low Pass


For a total of 8 channels. If you neglect the tweet inputs, you're losing half the signal in the front. I researched the amplifier output and these are the channels present in my 2013. I'm an Electrical Engineer also... so this isn't foreign to me. If you want to use the 6 channel LCQ-1, you will need to get a separate summing interface for the front channels or else you will have no highs in the front. If you don't care about fade or surround, you can pull just the front channels (tweet + mid) or just the rear channels to get the full signal, and then your crossover will break those apart at the speaker.
 

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This video at the time I linked to illustrates why 8 channels are necessary (edit: 1:15 secs is where you want, this is the exact setup we need for our trucks):
 
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I have been doing car audio for 25+ years....

i have tried all these summing devises, jl cleansweep, jbl piece, audio controls pieces..... and i will only use the RF 360.... for what it does for you - summing, eq, crossover..... and more - plus the ease of tunning.. and it just sounds better.. and thats what really matters..


i have a 2012 fx2 with sony Nav system.... I plan on upgrading the stereo soon... keeping nav unit so the 360 is a must.
Going with a true 3 way (Focal) 2 way speakers kit 165 KRX3 - Focal Car Audio drivers up front
and coaxials (Focal) 165 KRC Focal coaxial speakers kit for high end Car Audio sound system. in rear...
for sub is still up in the air, i will use a 150 x 4 amp on mids/highs
 

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I have been doing car audio for 25+ years....

i have tried all these summing devises, jl cleansweep, jbl piece, audio controls pieces..... and i will only use the RF 360.... for what it does for you - summing, eq, crossover..... and more - plus the ease of tunning.. and it just sounds better.. and thats what really matters..


i have a 2012 fx2 with sony Nav system.... I plan on upgrading the stereo soon... keeping nav unit so the 360 is a must.
Going with a true 3 way (Focal) 2 way speakers kit 165 KRX3 - Focal Car Audio drivers up front
and coaxials (Focal) 165 KRC Focal coaxial speakers kit for high end Car Audio sound system. in rear...
for sub is still up in the air, i will use a 150 x 4 amp on mids/highs
On further research, some installers that hooked up the channels to a signal analyzer noted that:
1) the sub channel was poor
2) the rears have full range

I'm just using front H/L and rears into an audio control LC6i (cause I can put it under the center console) and output that into an alpine PXA-H800. It was a toss-up between the alpine unit and the RF360 but I've had good luck with Alpine stuff.
 
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