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Discussion Starter #1
guys was wondering if you could help me out with something... so technically I know there isn't a cold fill line on the 6r80 transmission dipstick but some guys like Ford makuloco recommend that when filling, it it's near impossible to get the trans up to hot operating temp and check it (because it's so hot) he mentions to just fill to the cold line which is the bottom of the hash marks. My dipstick doesn't look like his (he has a yellow one with one set of hash marks - mine is white with two sets of hash marks) mine is like this excerpt from my service manual, I filled halfway up the lower set of hash marks (the "A" hash marks), do you think that's good? my truck had been idling for about 15 minutes when I checked so it had warmed up, but definitely was a no means hot View attachment 166619
 

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You can def do it while its hot. I did. Its tough to get it hot and keep it as hot as they want though. They want you to measure it when the cooling loop is open which is around 195F. I had to put my truck against the wall of the garage and put it in drive so the torque convert generated enough heat.
 

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I just drove on the highway until it was over 195, pulled into the garage and checked it with an ove-glove with the motor idling. I personally don't think it's necessary to keep it at 195 the whole time. I think they are just trying to make sure there is no air in the cooling line, so once you bleed it, it should be good for some time until it bleeds down. If you're concerned about the little amount of fluid that goes in the cooling line, check it running and top it off high on the stick assuming that there is no fluid in the cooling line.
 

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They A line and B line is hit and cold.
 

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Transmission Fluid Level Indicator


A removable dipstick-type fluid level indicator is located on the right front area of the transmission case. It is held in by an external fluid fill plug. The transmission fluid level indicator is removed with the transmission fluid fill plug. The transmission fluid level indicator is removed from the fill plug to check the transmission fluid level.


The transmission fluid level is correctly checked when the transmission is at normal operating temperature, 89ºC-102ºC (193ºF-215ºF), and the vehicle is on a level surface.


The correct transmission fluid level is at the upper level of the crosshatch marks on the transmission fluid level indicator.

Transmission Fluid Level Indicator
166642


ItemPart NumberDescription
1Transmission fluid fill plug
27A010Transmission fluid level indicator
3Transmission fluid level indicator FULL line
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I got the temp to 92c and checked, drained till I was 0.25 into the B mark... Assuming at 103 B hashes would be fully covered
 

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I don't know if it keeps expanding up to that upper temp or if it gets in that range and reaches some maximum. I got mine hot and put it at the full mark. I later installed the larger trans cooler and didn't add any fluid. None came out of the old one either. The spec on these have to be +/- a quart or two because this is a very imprecise way to check the level in a fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thats what i was thinking as well - i just used my common sense and thought if the temp range is 89c - 102c to check then i assumed top of hash was probably the 102 mark - ah well not a big deal like you said i think its a ballpark measurement - glad i took some out though, definitely 1 litre +
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if you guys havent made a fluid transfer unit out of a chemical sprayer from lowes etc. i suggest you do, $25 invested and made filling simple. I actually removed the safety relief and put on a schrader tire valve so now i can use the compressor to pressurize the container to 20-25 psi (its max operating is 30) - i put in the 6 litres in about 20+ seconds
 

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if you guys havent made a fluid transfer unit out of a chemical sprayer from lowes etc. i suggest you do, $25 invested and made filling simple. I actually removed the safety relief and put on a schrader tire valve so now i can use the compressor to pressurize the container to 20-25 psi (its max operating is 30) - i put in the 6 litres in about 20+ seconds
Awww come on. Show us!

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I created a pump for my 55 gallon e85 drum using the same concept. It works great!

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Discussion Starter #13
Well its pretty jimmy rigged, but basically took off the stock sprayer nozzle and hose (black - in the box for when/if I want to use it) and replaced with vinyl tubing, a ball valve (for pex water lines) & some harder HDPE water line (for fridges) as i found its stiffer and has a higher heat resistance. removed the safety relief, threw on some tubing i had laying around from my catch can install and trimmed a tire valve plug so it fit inside, then just worm gear clamped the heck out of it.

Warning, this has the potential to be a bomb, so i suggest you read the manufacturers maximum pressure - this plastic vessel is 30 psi so i go to about 20~25 psi, i have bumped the ball valve and sent atf all over my driveway and rims BTW, other then that, this thing is a time saver and would work awesome for other fluids (i used for the mercon LV for trans filter and fluid swap)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I should also mention the tubing is 50+ psi MOP, you could use reinforced vinyl tubing with the strings in it if your worried - I plan to never operate above 30 psi so I'm happy with this setup
 

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Awesome. Makes sense now.

Very clever!

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Nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I should also show pictures of the homemade suction device i made as well - uses a 2 Litre pickle jar and fittings + compressor blow gun - used to pull fluid out of my front diff - took a while with 80w90 fluid, but i got it. I somewhat fabricated a venturi effect at the fittings, actually when i had the tube in my diff oil overnight and a vacum was put on the homemade system, it sucked/siphoned 70% of the gear oil out overnight with no compressed air. The rest I grabbed in the morning with the help of a heat gun and magnetic heating element (to warm the gear oil). I also used it for the transmission fluid change - I drained the transmission pan to try to avoid a mercon LV shower, and it worked fairly quickly on cold mercon lv (10-15 minutes for~ 6 litres), and when hot I pulled out 1.5 litres in a matter of seconds , maybe 5-10 seconds the jar was near full of black mercon lv
 

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Discussion Starter #19
basically a homemade brake bleeder - could also just hook up the one connection on the lid to a vacuum pump, they are probably pretty cheap on ebay etc. but i didnt have one, but i do have a air compressor and blow gun (20 gallon horizontal, 2 hp reciprocating air comp. at home) - i threw some tape around the trigger so it stayed activated without me needing to hold it
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh and I should mention for the front diff, you cant get down past the ring gear with the water line tubing I have its too big, so I added a 10" segment of 1/4" poly irrigation tubing (what i had lying around and it fit inside the waterline tightly!) to the tip and then that could reach down low in the differential housing - I bet the hose that is on the windshield washer fluid nozzles would also work, but I needed something somewhat stiff - I felt like a dentist with the suction tool in someones mouth, however it was my front diff and I am far from a dentist!
 

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