One thing I really missed about my Tundra was the fold down rear seats. I heard of and saw a few folks' remedy for this in the late model Fords. So I came up with my own version and this was a game changer for my truck. Now, with the addition of a homemade oak under-seat storage box and the new found behind the seat storage space, I have all my tools and accessories in the cab, neatly tucked away but easily accessible. Here are my efforts with pictures and explanations. It should be noted that I do have a well outfitted shop and some of this method would be difficult for a guy working with hand tools in his garage.
1- The little silver post is the one you need to pull up on to get the seats to unlatch. I used a long box end wrench to catch and pull this up the first time. Rather easy once you find the right little post to pull.
2- The securing catch is a sliding, plastic covered rod. It is important to note this as when you try to re-latch the seat, this rod must be in position to marry up to the latch.
3- Better view of the unlatching post. Take the latch off the seat - two torx head screws. Work the latch a couple times and you'll understand how it works.
4- I used a flat finishing file to make a flat area on the latch post where I then put it in the drill press and used a 1/16" bit to drill a hole for a cotter pin about 1/16" from the end of the rod. The rod is extremely soft steel so be careful, take your time.
5-6-7- Sheet of 1/16" aluminum plate- readily available from Lowes, etc. Made about a 3/4" wide, 12" long strip. Drilled a 19/64" hole (slightly larger than 1/4") in the end. 5/16" or 3/8" would work but would be sloppy fit. 9/32" or "F" bit might work as well. I then put this in the vice and using some pliers, made a 1/4 turn twist about 3" from the hole to bring the handle in 90 degree position from the hole. Be sure to smooth and sand down the pull handle or it will grab and pull the cloth on the seat, causing difficult operation and damaging your seat cloth.
8-9- I noticed some tightness and drag when testing this apparatus on the bench. Found that there was a bulge just under the latch rod that was from pressing a groove, from the opposite side of the bracket, for the latch to operate. This groove has nothing to add to the integrity of the bracket so I used my belt grinder and a 2" wheel to relieve this area and allow the new pull handle to operate freely.
10-11- Tested the new latch on the bench and the truck, replicated the pull handle and added a little flat black paint.
12- insert cotter key and here's what it looks like.
13- installed back in seat, cut a small slit in the cover material (cloth portion) to hold the pull handle secure.
14- Voila! this is what you see from the cab.
Works great! I did notice that to make re-latching easiest, you unlatch with the seat in it's down position and as long as you don't move the latch bar, it re-latches fine. I do have to put a slight amount of downward pressure on my pull handle as I slam the seat-back back into position. But it works easily and like a charm! It's amazing how much storage I have now. I put my tire inflator, jumper cables, umbrella and first aid kit back there. Could have easily but a long gun with case as well. Possibly the best mod I have done on this truck! Hence I thought it worth the effort to share with my Eco-brothers!
Good luck!
1- The little silver post is the one you need to pull up on to get the seats to unlatch. I used a long box end wrench to catch and pull this up the first time. Rather easy once you find the right little post to pull.
2- The securing catch is a sliding, plastic covered rod. It is important to note this as when you try to re-latch the seat, this rod must be in position to marry up to the latch.
3- Better view of the unlatching post. Take the latch off the seat - two torx head screws. Work the latch a couple times and you'll understand how it works.
4- I used a flat finishing file to make a flat area on the latch post where I then put it in the drill press and used a 1/16" bit to drill a hole for a cotter pin about 1/16" from the end of the rod. The rod is extremely soft steel so be careful, take your time.
5-6-7- Sheet of 1/16" aluminum plate- readily available from Lowes, etc. Made about a 3/4" wide, 12" long strip. Drilled a 19/64" hole (slightly larger than 1/4") in the end. 5/16" or 3/8" would work but would be sloppy fit. 9/32" or "F" bit might work as well. I then put this in the vice and using some pliers, made a 1/4 turn twist about 3" from the hole to bring the handle in 90 degree position from the hole. Be sure to smooth and sand down the pull handle or it will grab and pull the cloth on the seat, causing difficult operation and damaging your seat cloth.
8-9- I noticed some tightness and drag when testing this apparatus on the bench. Found that there was a bulge just under the latch rod that was from pressing a groove, from the opposite side of the bracket, for the latch to operate. This groove has nothing to add to the integrity of the bracket so I used my belt grinder and a 2" wheel to relieve this area and allow the new pull handle to operate freely.
10-11- Tested the new latch on the bench and the truck, replicated the pull handle and added a little flat black paint.
12- insert cotter key and here's what it looks like.
13- installed back in seat, cut a small slit in the cover material (cloth portion) to hold the pull handle secure.
14- Voila! this is what you see from the cab.
Works great! I did notice that to make re-latching easiest, you unlatch with the seat in it's down position and as long as you don't move the latch bar, it re-latches fine. I do have to put a slight amount of downward pressure on my pull handle as I slam the seat-back back into position. But it works easily and like a charm! It's amazing how much storage I have now. I put my tire inflator, jumper cables, umbrella and first aid kit back there. Could have easily but a long gun with case as well. Possibly the best mod I have done on this truck! Hence I thought it worth the effort to share with my Eco-brothers!
Good luck!
