[Blown F-150]

Well, there seems to be a few folks all in a knot over the cost to build a motor, pair it with some other upgrades and install.

So, I'm open to discuss on this thread or I can open up a new one in the performance section.

Here are some of the add-ons and additional costs above a custom "Long Block" for MY build. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff and I'm not including stuff that I already bought (Turbo's and other bolt-ons).

These are US prices, I pay 25-30% more for everything to get it here north of the boarder.
XDI-35 HPFP =$1600
Upgraded in-tank pump = $200
Fuel return system with lines, regulator, filter, basket, sock, etc = ~$600 (haven't hammered out what specific parts I'm gonna use yet)
Circle D Torque Converter = $1400 (I paid expedite fee)
Full Race Rad = $800
Full Race Trans Cooler = $400
Improved racing Oil Cooler adapter with thermostat = $200
Setrab Oil cooler (custom coated and custom bracket) = $300
Gaskets and Hardware to swap motor = $500
Amsoil Transmission flush and the pan drop and filter swap = $400
Shipping engine = ~$750
Customs/duty fees = $1000

Options on the table
Engine install = $2000
Engine Lift, Stands misc stuff = $400

Total = $8,550 - $10,150 with some flex in there due to deals on parts and some options not being picked yet.

Can you do a build cheaper, 100% for sure you can. I chose the parts and vendors for durability, reliability and the fun of making the truck mine.

@TXRipper, I don't need someone shouting at me from their soapbox and comparing this to "just buy a Gen 2". This is my path and gives me a nice custom truck vs. a 2018 that looks and drives like everyone else. For me, if I cared about track times or HP numbers, I wouldn't be doing this in a 6300lb truck with a winch.

I couldn't justify throwing down $40k for a new truck on top of my trade in to end up starting all over again.

 

[Blown F-150]

Dyno Booked for October 15th to get baseline numbers. This will be with GT's, Ported OEM Manifolds, SPD Adapters and 33" AT tires. Everything else will be 100% bone stock.

 

[Elmore328]

Good insight! And I'll go ahead and say it to you (not that you need my validation), but if you have the hard earned money that you have worked for and saved, and want to spend it...then it's YOUR money and you spend it in any manner that you see fit and that you and your wife agree upon. Your truck, your money, your decisions, your happiness!

BTW- I will be honest and say that I NEVER took into account that you are in Canuckistan and that shipping, duties, taxes, exchange rate, etc come into play and are a big addition to your overall cost.

 

[snakebitten]

FYI, I did actually start a thread for exactly this conversation. Obviously you have every right to allow your build thread to host the conversation instead.

By the way, I could probably live with those additional costs associated with being "north of the border", but I'm not sure I could come to terms with the short summers? Lol

$2000 for the motor swap labor?
So THAT one aspect is cheaper in Canada?

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[MAXXPAY]

Well, there seems to be a few folks all in a knot over the cost to build a motor, pair it with some other upgrades and install.

So, I'm open to discuss on this thread or I can open up a new one in the performance section.

Here are some of the add-ons and additional costs above a custom "Long Block" for MY build. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff and I'm not including stuff that I already bought (Turbo's and other bolt-ons).

These are US prices, I pay 25-30% more for everything to get it here north of the boarder.
XDI-35 HPFP =$1600
Upgraded in-tank pump = $200
Fuel return system with lines, regulator, filter, basket, sock, etc = ~$600 (haven't hammered out what specific parts I'm gonna use yet)
Circle D Torque Converter = $1400 (I paid expedite fee)
Full Race Rad = $800
Full Race Trans Cooler = $400
Improved racing Oil Cooler adapter with thermostat = $200
Setrab Oil cooler (custom coated and custom bracket) = $300
Gaskets and Hardware to swap motor = $500
Amsoil Transmission flush and the pan drop and filter swap = $400
Shipping engine = ~$750
Customs/duty fees = $1000

Options on the table
Engine install = $2000
Engine Lift, Stands misc stuff = $400

Total = $8,550 - $10,150 with some flex in there due to deals on parts and some options not being picked yet.

Can you do a build cheaper, 100% for sure you can. I chose the parts and vendors for durability, reliability and the fun of making the truck mine.

@TXRipper, I don't need someone shouting at me from their soapbox and comparing this to "just buy a Gen 2". This is my path and gives me a nice custom truck vs. a 2018 that looks and drives like everyone else. For me, if I cared about track times or HP numbers, I wouldn't be doing this in a 6300lb truck with a winch.

I couldn't justify throwing down $40k for a new truck on top of my trade in to end up starting all over again.

Sounds pretty reasonable to me considering I paid over 8k just for the swap/tune/fuel upgrades and still don’t have a truck to drive


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[mwemaxxowner]

I'm a little late to the party, but I've had to file a few small insurance claims with Farm Bureau. For me, there was a dollar amount below which the check was just sent to me ($1500 I think). Over that, they needed to see the work before they cut the check and sent it to the body shop. I had hail damage checked out and got $1200 for it that I pocketed and decided to live with the damage. On the same truck I had a bedside repaired and the whole passenger side painted, they inspected that first and cut the check to the body shop.

This was all on a truck I owned outright.

Baaaaaaaaaaa

 

[MAXXPAY]

Perhaps I can dig up the invoice I received from Rev Auto...then some people can see some real dollar figures on what they can expect.


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[TX-Ripper]

Can you do a build cheaper, 100% for sure you can. I chose the parts and vendors for durability, reliability and the fun of making the truck mine.

@TXRipper, I don't need someone shouting at me from their soapbox and comparing this to "just buy a Gen 2". This is my path and gives me a nice custom truck vs. a 2018 that looks and drives like everyone else. For me, if I cared about track times or HP numbers, I wouldn't be doing this in a 6300lb truck with a winch.

I couldn't justify throwing down $40k for a new truck on top of my trade in to end up starting all over again.

I’m glad you posted this.

Your truck, your money, your happiness!

what I was shocked about was the dollar amount, there has been many many posts about the cost of these builds, but no real information.

Much of what is posted has been smoke and mirrors, talk of how cheap it is, but now dollar amounts.

Now we can start to see some real numbers and they are higher then eluded too.

Granted your up north and there is a conversion of the dollar and the penalty tax.

 

[cb4d]

looks awesome!

 

[Blown F-150]

I’m glad you posted this.

Your truck, your money, your happiness!

what I was shocked about was the dollar amount, there has been many many posts about the cost of these builds, but no real information.

Much of what is posted has been smoke and mirrors, talk of how cheap it is, but now dollar amounts.

Now we can start to see some real numbers and they are higher then eluded too.

Granted your up north and there is a conversion of the dollar and the penalty tax.

Like I said though, it certainly can be done for cheaper. You could do a decent build on a long block for $10-12k from a engine builder.

I'm sure your $6500 blower has turned into more than that. It's the way it goes.

 

[Blown F-150]

Sounds pretty reasonable to me considering I paid over 8k just for the swap/tune/fuel upgrades and still don’t have a truck to drive


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It's not a great spot to be in. To be a bit blunt on it though, stuff does happen. Even though I knew I could build it myself, I spent thousands on a sled motor from "the" premier builder for the platform and it lasted less than a hour. A piston failed due to a manufacturing flaw, nothing he could have caught or known. I was beyond pissed, but he worked with me and the next motor lasted without a problem for 5 years of hard running.

It's very frustrating, I get it.

 

[EcoXLT]

It's not a great spot to be in. To be a bit blunt on it though, stuff does happen. Even though I knew I could build it myself, I spent thousands on a sled motor from "the" premier builder for the platform and it lasted less than a hour. A piston failed due to a manufacturing flaw, nothing he could have caught or known. I was beyond pissed, but he worked with me and the next motor lasted without a problem for 5 years of hard running.

It's very frustrating, I get it.

You are so right. I had a 289 built for my 67 mustang fastback and it lasted 250 miles. Piston failure. Pissed because I lost out on my number matching block. But company helped me find a correct date code engine and rebuilt it on their dime. To a point most new engines let you know right away if something wasn’t built correct. And for those who don’t know breaking in a flat tappet cam is intense. Always scares me.

 

[Blown F-150]

FYI, I did actually start a thread for exactly this conversation. Obviously you have every right to allow your build thread to host the conversation instead.

By the way, I could probably live with those additional costs associated with being "north of the border", but I'm not sure I could come to terms with the short summers? Lol

$2000 for the motor swap labor?
So THAT one aspect is cheaper in Canada?

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I am lucky on the motor swap. Family works at a local Ford dealer (local, now that I moved). I am also friends with the Service Manager and the tech I would be getting to do the work. As mentioned earlier in the tread, I think I will be doing the swap myself. I haven't 100% made up my mind yet, but my buddy could just come over, have a beer and "check my work".

I'm going off of memory, but I think a "long block" swap flat rate is 18 hours. $150 per hour for normal shop rate would be $2700 in just labor. There's hardware, shop supplies and fluids on top of that.

 

[snakebitten]

Yea, the "procedure" for getting that wicked built motor from first-firing to its first properly tuned and ring-seated state is fairly complicated. Logistics are going to require diligence.

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[EcoXLT]

I am lucky on the motor swap. Family works at a local Ford dealer (local, now that I moved). I am also friends with the Service Manager and the tech I would be getting to do the work. As mentioned earlier in the tread, I think I will be doing the swap myself. I haven't 100% made up my mind yet, but my buddy could just come over, have a beer and "check my work".

I'm going off of memory, but I think a "long block" swap flat rate is 18 hours. $150 per hour for normal shop rate would be $2700 in just labor. There's hardware, shop supplies and fluids on top of that.

That brings back some good memories when I was in my twenty’s. A case of cold beer , a buddy’s home garage and working on a motor or transmission clutch till like 2 o’clock in the morning. Cars were so much easier , built in the 60’s.

 

[Blown F-150]

I love that sort of thing. Grew up with a Dad that new how to turn a wrench and loved doing it with friends. I kicked around the shop while he did some really cool resto's.

That was a good chunk of my young life, only it was more likely to happen with sleds, quads, sea-doo's or boats.

 

[TX-Ripper]

Like I said though, it certainly can be done for cheaper. You could do a decent build on a long block for $10-12k from a engine builder.

I'm sure your $6500 blower has turned into more than that. It's the way it goes.

while you make good point about the cost of the blower you missing the math for the big horse power is was chasing

Gen 1 3.5 ecoboost $7000-8000 efr kit (gen 2 is $11,000ish) that’s just the power adder then you need $10,000 engine (can be done cheaper) some of these engines are up to $15,000+ then you need fuel upgrades hpfp, maybe cams and injectors $1500-$5000 if they even work

coyote $6500-9000 for the power adder no engine needed, you want exhaust and fuel to chase 750+ wheel add $2000-$3000

these estimates don’t include labor or up north tax/penalty

And most of all they don’t guarantee they you will meet your goal except with the coyote.

 

[TX-Ripper]

I love that sort of thing. Grew up with a Dad that new how to turn a wrench and loved doing it with friends. I kicked around the shop while he did some really cool resto's.

That was a good chunk of my young life, only it was more likely to happen with sleds, quads, sea-doo's or boats.

some of us had to turn a wrench if we wanted our cars to run.

 

[EcoXLT]

some of us had to turn a wrench if we wanted our cars to run.

And most of my buddies cars that we turned a wrench on were Chevys.

 

[Blown F-150]

some of us had to turn a wrench if we wanted our cars to run.

Yup, my Dad taught me so I could do it for myself. My first car was a turismo, not exactly a beacon of reliability, lol. I had to pay for it (farm labor) and keep it on the road. Gas was from the farm tanks, so I had it easy there.


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