Anyone?

 

Well, all the parts above have been ordered. Once they are in, I'll grab some coolant and oil to top them back up after the turbo swap.

I've found a few bits around here to sell. Hoping to get funds together for a Full-Race CAC and then put on all the parts at the same time. The original goal was to keep things looking OEM, but in the end I just want to get on with the mods.

Should be hitting the Dyno in the next few weeks to get a baseline of a 100% stock truck and then tune-only.

 

You and me both..minus I don't have a CAC in the works...yet...:8


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20's are pulled off and Raptor wheels back on.

Had some help.

 

20's are pulled off and Raptor wheels back on.

Had some help.

Make sure he torques the lugs to the correct spec.

 

Of course, He will be a master tech in no time!

 

I love these tires


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Thanks To ChrisH, my Tial BOV has arrived. Just waiting on some feedback from Full-Race before ordering up the FMIC.

 

Looking good. I have some gaskets laying around if you need a set. Hit me up.


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Getting much closer to making this all happen. All my gaskets and install hardware showed up today. I'll be placing my order for the Full Race FMIC tomorrow.

The little one had a nice long nap today, so I was able to get the coating done on the passenger side. Just had to wash, hit the paint with a light polish and then apply the coating. Three coats to match the drivers side. I didn't have time to hit the trim, tires or wheel wells with dressing. Still think it came out pretty nice.

 

Do you use clay bars or just the Nano skin pad with the lubricant stuff? I don't know much about the process but I want to do something similar on mine after seeing yours and rbrowns coatings. I will have to do it myself because there aren't any shops around me that do it.

 

I use both, depending on the follow up process I am going to use. It's a very easy process.

This last detail, I used the Nanoskin Mitt first, but looked over the paint really closely before polishing and had to hit a few spot with traditional Clay to make sure I had a clean surface to start with. I find that clay works better for removing tar than the Nanoskin products. Just to give you a guideline, I've only been seriously detailing for the last 8 years or so, before that I just liked to keep stuff clean. I have a lot of good tools and products (easily over $1k in polishers alone). I haven't done the hood, roof, tailgate, grill or bumpers yet. So far it's taken me about 10 hours to get to this point.

If you plan on making an order for some stuff, AutoGeek is a easy place to order from and has anything and everything you could ever want. They also have a very good forum to lurk around and learn techniques as well as things to stay away from.

But, if you just want to pick up some off-the-shelf products, I can recommend some good, easy to use stuff.

I would first ask a few questions of you before pointing you in any real direction though.

1. Do you have a DA polisher, like a Porter Cable 7424XP or will you be doing the work by hand?
2. How do you feel about the condition of your paint now? Can you see swirls or marring in the paint when it's in direct sunlight?
3. Have you used basic product like wax or cleaner wax in the past? How much paint correction or detailing have you done in the past?
4. What's your goal in the end? Do you want to use a coating so it lasts? Do you like to wax your vehicle regularly?

If you want to shoot me a PM, we can also chat over the phone and discuss. Feel free to reply here too, we can just discuss in this thread.

 

Good post! I'm right there with you with the amount of polishers, DA and other that I've accumulated. It can be overwhelming for many, and I agree autogeek is an outstanding place to start!

 

I will pm you so I don't clutter your thread.

 

Full Race Intercooler ordered! Really looking forward to getting my hands on it.

I ordered it in black with both a Elbow for the Tial BOV and one for the EBOV. That way, I can run either the EBOV or the Tial (not 100% about -35c operation with the Tial).

Also ordered up a drop-in AEM filter. This order was $2300 CDN to my door, so I just didn't have the $$$ for a CAI or Catch Can. Those will have to wait.

4-6 week lead time for the FMIC, so just get to sit and wait now.

With the wait, I will be getting the Turbos and other bits installed before the FMIC shows up.

Waiting for a dyno date from the performance shop for when we can get the truck strapped on the rollers.

 

Dyno time booked for May 30th to get baseline numbers.

 

Huge shout out to Mike and MPT!

Updated perf tune for the truck as it sits today (stock) and a stock tune with the limiter removed loaded onto the X4.

Looking forward to hitting the rollers!

In the meantime, I'll be getting a small non-performance add-on sorted out this weekend. been looking forward to getting it done for about a year or so.

Hoping to also get the rest of the polishing/coating done and get protective film on the rear door sills. Should be a good weekend (long one up here).

 

Double Post

 

Finally got around to this! Took forever as I started it (routing the main power) last year.

The goal was to have a power point in the bed of the truck. could be for camping, powering a small 12v cooler or just to be able to charge a phone, whatever.

I went with a three pot mount and put in a standard 12v socket, dual 5v USB and voltmeter. I rigged up the the 5v and voltmeter to be only on when I turn on the switch. The 12v is hot all the time.

Power was routed through a Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse box.
Main power is a direct 8ga (fused) run from the power distribution box under the hood.

before install




Man, I hate drilling holes, but I figured worst case scenario that I can just put rubber grommets in the holes.
Holes sprayed with zinc-rich rust converter spray after drilled


Hole drilled in the back of the stake pocket and grommet put in to protect the wiring


Main power run into the Blue Sea box


Box is affixed with 3M two sided tape


Box mounted



Power connected to the main distribution box


Looks pretty good to me and out of the way. Almost OEM, lol.


Switch turned on

 

Hit the Dyno today. Mixed results, something wasn't right. I'm not sure if it was the set up of the Dyno or what. Logs sent to Mike for review and then I'll re-group and go from there. Stock numbers seemed OK and within reason (284whp/381wtq), but the tuned numbers were off. Possibly something wrong with how I loaded the tunes (not sure, just a guess) or how the Dyno was calculating RPM. It may be worthwhile to hit a different Dyno, but they seemed to be OK with Grimms Truck.

Still a fun day!

 

One of the runs

 

Found out some of the issue was the Gas. It's just poor quality and can't really run a 93 optimized tune on it. Working with MPT on some revisions.

Other issue was heat soak, IAT2 and ECT temp went way up on the dyno runs. I did some street pulls and the truck didn't get near as hot.

No funds to hit the dyno again till after the turbos and other goodies are on, so it will have to wait. Should have this wrapped up by the end of the month though.

 

How did you narrow it down to gas quality? I've wondered if my gas just sucks around here and if that's part of my problem. Even with 93.

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Basically Mike reviewed my Dyno logs as well as some logs from pulls on the street. The OAR, KR and timing changes are pointing toward a 94 rated gas (Chevron) that is closer to 90-91.

He's sent me a revision that is really more for 91 and I'll log some more to confirm.

I've been spending a few hours over the last couple of days researching. Poor quality gas seems to be a running theme in this area (when you're looking for 92+). Probably have to leave it at a 91 tune in the end. I do know of a high volume station that does 94, so will give that a shot as a last ditch effort.

In the end though, probably better to tune for 91 anyway. If this ends up being the case, I will swap to Shell as I have had consistent results with them in the past. I did a lot of datalogging with shell 91 and my procharged 5.4.

We'll keep plugging away as this is relevant info for when the GT's go on.

 

Well drat. My oar runs near perfect till some knocking occurs.

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I'm still learning as I thought my OAR was OK too. It held steady at -.58. Apparently though, It's just one factor.

Not entirely sure if Mike's tune has to be "looked at" differently than if I was on the stock tune when it comes to OAR.

 

Not sure if this helps. But this is part of a log I did last night. 0-80mph run. Just floored it, no brake boosting or anything.

Fuel Chevron 94 (ethanol free)
Green line is Spark Advance (lowest point is -.5 highest is +16 [once I hit it])
Red is knock (lowest point is -2.5 and highest is 5.5)
Bright Green is OAR. Hold @ -.58 and jumps to -.39 at the end of the pull.

Same 0-80 pull, same spot, same ambient temp. Only change is a revision from MPT (pulled some timing) and a different brand of fuel (Shell 91 vs Chevron 94 in the top graph). You can see a big improvement in knock (both graphs start at zero on the left) and timing improvement reflects.

Fuel Shell 91 (ethanol free)
Spark Advance (lowest Point -1.0 and highest +17)
Knock (lowest is -6.0 and highest is +.25)
OAR solid @ -.58

Next comparison will be by ONLY installing the Full Race FMIC. I would then like to test a fuel with 10% Ethanol and compare.

Stay tuned...