[singleshot67]

I attempted to install the AS 1.5" kit yesterday, but also ran into the issue of having to remove the 2 bolts holding on the lower control arm. I wasn't comfortable doing that, so I put everything back together. I was reading on another forum about a guy who unbolted his half-shafts from the hubs and that allowed the LCA's to drop down enough to remove the struts. I'm thinking about giving it another try using this method this weekend. I'll report back with the results.

 

[beer10t]

SO my buddy and I tackled this last night. We put in a 2013 Autospring 1.5 into a 2014. IT CAN BE DONE. You need a huge pry bar to pull the struts out of the LCA. Disconnect everything but the axle shaft and LCA. pry up on the bottom of the strut and it WILL pop out. Then take the nuts from the lower strut mount, reverse them and tighten them until they are flush with tip of bolt. Place strut sideways in vise, at the lower mount point, and close vise onto the head of the stud in the lower strut mount. Then back vise of 1/4 turn. This will allow the stud to be drifted out by hitting the nut with a good size hammer, while the lower strut mount is anviled on the vise jaws. Place a 1x4 in-between the springs to balance the strut horizontally, or have your buddy hold it level. Then smack the nut until you drift the stud out. Repeat for other stud. After the studs were out, I put one end of the lower strut mount back in the vise and twisted the mount the opposite direction of angle of what it is at stock. This is because the leveling kit requires you to rotate the shock 180° upon reinstall. There is a twist in the mount if you hold strut vertical. Just reverse it, not rocket science.

This will allow you to install a 1.5" leveling kit in a 2014.

You will again have to pry on LCA to get strut and puck (already installed on top) back in. Be careful of axle boot. Then place studs back into holes. Twist them to align splines and tap them a couple times real good with hammer and punch to set the splines partially back into place. This prevents stud from twisting when you tighten the nut back on. Now here I tightened the nuts by hand with a long handled socket wrench because I didn't want to spin the studs with an impact. To each their own.

This procedure prevents you from having to take off the LCA. You still have to get an alignment, but not the next day. We also adjusted out the tow 3/16" for good measure before having an alignment.

Now I don't know if this will work for a 2" or larger leveling kit. But it worked well for us in a pinch.

Expect 2+ hours for one side, and 45 minutes for the other due to learning curve. DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME.

Hope this helps guys!!

beer10t

 

[bruthru2003]

When I installed my 2.5" level kit, the 3 ft pry bar I have was my best friend that afternoon. Only way I was able to get them back in on my 2012.

 

[Lizardking419]

Rough country has a video on the install of a 2.5" leveling kit. Looked pretty simple.

 

[bruthru2003]

Whenever I say in my head "that looks pretty simple" = hours of pain and frustration, ha!

 

[Renegade Medic]

I was able to install a 2.5" front spacer on my 14 without removing the LCA. Took me about 2 hours for the full install. We you have the strut out, put the 2 long bottom bolts in the arm and pull the strut the opposite way. They are angled one way and to install, just force them the opposite way so when you rotate the strut for install it goes in with no problem. I know I'm probably a little late with this advice, but it may help someone else in the future.

 

[Chase]

2014 Platinum will be receiving the RC 2.5" kit today...

 

[boostedblkfx4]

i just installed my 2" hbs level kit on friday, it can be done without any LCA work. I took the Coil out and put in a vice, stuck the nut back on the LCA studs and put the 18 mm socket on them. took a hammer and beat them out once that was done i put the strut with the spacer installed back into the LCA pocket without any pry bar. it was very simple. a 2.5" level may require a little more effort with a pry bar, but this was very easy. just be careful when putting studs back in the LCA bracket. you will def need an impact to get them back tightend. also the 2" kit made it level with a slight 1/4" or less difference in the back.

 

[clint_dawson]

To install on the 14 models: Disconnect the tie rods and sway bar. Mark location of LCA bolts with a marker so you can reinstall as close to original as possible. Drop the LCA by removing the 2 body bolts.

Put a small floor jack under the LCA and slowly lower it down taking care to not get the cv axle in a bind. Remove shock. You will need to turn the shock top cap around 180 degrees after installing spacer - use a spring compressor to relieve some pressure on the top cap with the bolts.

Take care not to cause the spring to move from it's rubber seat (use WD-40 to get it to slide). Reinsert and follow directions in reverse.

Get an alignment ASAP. This way will be a ton easier than trying to disconnect the UBJ and force the LCA down like the '13s

I attempted this and got it all put back together, and it seemed like the upper control arm was very close to the spring which concerned me so I took it all apart and haven't put it back on yet.. any comments?

 

[norcal_ecoscrew]

I attempted this and got it all put back together, and it seemed like the upper control arm was very close to the spring which concerned me so I took it all apart and haven't put it back on yet.. any comments?

On my 2012 with my level my UCA hits the spring when the suspension is fully unloaded.

It's normal.

Aftermarket UCA's solve this.

 

[Renegade Medic]

Guys, this isn't that hard. I had mine done quickly with no idea what do expect on the 14. It's simple.

When you go to re-install the strut after the level spacer on top, revolve the strut 180*. Then stick the bolts down into the hole on the LCA and start prying them the opposite direction using the LCA as your fulcrum. Then pull it back out and flip the strut back the proper way to re-install and re-install. Done.

Before:

After:

 

[CKNPRO]

I have been kicking this around for a while now. I have measures the wheel wells from the center of the wheels and get less than an inch difference. I have a camper on my truck that weighs about 200# I guess. Yet I can definitely see the rake, it seems more than 3/4" to the eye. Maybe there is some optical illusion there. My question is how much actual rise should I expect from a 1.5" Autospring spacer? Or a 1" Daystar - as those seem to be my only options under 2".
I have also kicked around AAL for the rear since when I tow my UTV now the tongue weight sit the truck level to the eye. With a level I suspect I'll be nose high then. I have had air bags on last truck so I'm familiar with those. I found on the Tundra with Bilstein shocks and ANY air pressure caused the rear to bounce very harshly. Maybe it was a combo effect. I had the Airride bags with the jounce bumper.
Also I figure if I did AAL I'd need to go 2" level or I'd still have a rake like now.
Thoughts? Experiences? Thanks

 

[EcoStan]

hi guys, looking to do a leveling kit, tires and rims on my 2014 f150 fx4. suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[ktm621]

hi guys, looking to do a leveling kit, tires and rims on my 2014 f150 fx4. suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm running a 2.5 rough county level with the three inch block in the back with 295x70r18 nitto g2's

 

[ktm621]

hi guys, looking to do a leveling kit, tires and rims on my 2014 f150 fx4. suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm running the 2.5 level kit from rough county and 295x70r18 nitto g2's

 

[EcoStan]

any rubbing issues?

 

[ktm621]

any rubbing issues?

None