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Add me to the list of leaking oil pans.

2016 2.7, 35,000 miles. I have been seeing dampness on the pan above the drain plug for at least the last two oil changes. During the last oil change yesterday I saw accumulation on the bolt head.

The leak is super slow. There is nothing on the ground (no diaper last 20k miles) and the undercarriage is clean aside from the pan side being damp.

From what I'm reading, this leak will be back regardless. Should I not even bother having ford fix it unless it gets worse? I understand this is under power train warranty, right?
 

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I purchased my 2016 Ford F 150 with the 2.7 E.B. engine in it Feb. of 2017. Currently I have close to 25,000 miles on it.I got by for about 12,000 miles before the dreaded oil pan leak on it appeared. The dealer reported it to me and stated that they torqued the oil pan bolts and installed some of the white dye in the oil so they could see at a later date if it was still leaking. It continued to leak and I contacted the dealer and they checked it to see for sure if it was leaking then ordered a new oil pan for it.

I took it in for the oil pan replacement and it was in the shop for 2 days with them contacting me close to their closing time on the second day. They said they had the pan replaced and checked to make sure it was not leaking which it was not. Now 5000 miles later I had it in for another oil change and they reported back to me stating my oil pan was leaking.

The service manager told me that he did some checking and that this last August Ford came up with a new procedure for taking care of the oil leak but it would go from a 2 day repair to a 4-5 day repair with all the added steps and after getting the old oil pan off they would not go back on with an oil pan for a day or so afterwards as they needed to make sure all of the oil that was in the engine was completely drained out. Then the bottom side of the block would be cleaned thoroughly and sealant applied to both the bottom of the block and the oil pan allowing it to set up for several hours or a day before reinstalling the oil pan. It will be sometime in the middle of next month before I contact the dealer and set up the appointment for the repair.

Has anyone heard of this updated procedure for repairing the oil leak? According to the shop manager the new procedure was supposed to have just came out this last August. Does anyone know what the full written procedure is and if so can you share it?

I saw a different procedure posted somewhere but it didn't state on it the added time for allowing all the oil to completely drain from the engine and it called for installing the oil pan within 15 minutes of applying the RTV sealant.
 

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I purchased my 2016 Ford F 150 with the 2.7 E.B. engine in it Feb. of 2017. Currently I have close to 25,000 miles on it.I got by for about 12,000 miles before the dreaded oil pan leak on it appeared. The dealer reported it to me and stated that they torqued the oil pan bolts and installed some of the white dye in the oil so they could see at a later date if it was still leaking. It continued to leak and I contacted the dealer and they checked it to see for sure if it was leaking then ordered a new oil pan for it.

I took it in for the oil pan replacement and it was in the shop for 2 days with them contacting me close to their closing time on the second day. They said they had the pan replaced and checked to make sure it was not leaking which it was not. Now 5000 miles later I had it in for another oil change and they reported back to me stating my oil pan was leaking.

The service manager told me that he did some checking and that this last August Ford came up with a new procedure for taking care of the oil leak but it would go from a 2 day repair to a 4-5 day repair with all the added steps and after getting the old oil pan off they would not go back on with an oil pan for a day or so afterwards as they needed to make sure all of the oil that was in the engine was completely drained out. Then the bottom side of the block would be cleaned thoroughly and sealant applied to both the bottom of the block and the oil pan allowing it to set up for several hours or a day before reinstalling the oil pan. It will be sometime in the middle of next month before I contact the dealer and set up the appointment for the repair.

Has anyone heard of this updated procedure for repairing the oil leak? According to the shop manager the new procedure was supposed to have just came out this last August. Does anyone know what the full written procedure is and if so can you share it?

I saw a different procedure posted somewhere but it didn't state on it the added time for allowing all the oil to completely drain from the engine and it called for installing the oil pan within 15 minutes of applying the RTV sealant.
Let the vehicle sit over night with the pan off draining


SSM 47446

Some Ford and Lincoln vehicles equipped with a 2.7L or 3.0L EcoBoost engine mayexhibit an oil leak from the engine oil pan RTV seal. Replace the oil pan following the procedure in Workshop Manual (WSM) Section, 303-01. After removing the oil pan it is suggested to allow the crankcase to drain overnight to minimize the chance of residual oil contaminating the crankcase sealing rail. Remove all traces of old RTV and clean the engine sealing surface using only Motorcraft® Metal Brake Parts Cleaner, then wipe with Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep Wipes and allow to air dry. Refer to WSM, Section 303-00 > RTV Sealing Surface Cleaning andPreparation. If possible, allow the new RTV sealant to cure for 4 hours before refilling the engine with oil. Skipping or improperly completing steps may result in repeat oil pan leaks
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Thanks for the reply djfllmn, so when they do this procedure are they replacing the oil pan with a new oil pan or are they going back on with the old oil pan?
replace the pan
 

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replace the pan
The weather was pretty decent today so I decided to drop the felt cover to see how bad the oil pan on my truck is leaking. It is definitely leaking but I think I know at least part of why the first oil pan replacement did not take care of the leak. I noticed that the wiring harness that runs along the bottom drivers side below the pan was covered with a lot of the RTV sealant. It looks like when they put the pan back on and was pushing it back up into place that it rubbed the RTV sealant on that front part of the pan on that side. Also on the very front of the engine where another part of the wiring harness used to be attached the bracket that was on the bottom of the engine block that held the wiring harness in place was busted off allowing the wiring harness to sag in that spot. Bumper Technology Automotive exterior Auto part Electronic device
 

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yea, that will do it...
 

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I purchased my 2016 Ford F 150 with the 2.7 E.B. engine in it Feb. of 2017. Currently I have close to 25,000 miles on it.I got by for about 12,000 miles before the dreaded oil pan leak on it appeared. The dealer reported it to me and stated that they torqued the oil pan bolts and installed some of the white dye in the oil so they could see at a later date if it was still leaking. It continued to leak and I contacted the dealer and they checked it to see for sure if it was leaking then ordered a new oil pan for it.

I took it in for the oil pan replacement and it was in the shop for 2 days with them contacting me close to their closing time on the second day. They said they had the pan replaced and checked to make sure it was not leaking which it was not. Now 5000 miles later I had it in for another oil change and they reported back to me stating my oil pan was leaking.

The service manager told me that he did some checking and that this last August Ford came up with a new procedure for taking care of the oil leak but it would go from a 2 day repair to a 4-5 day repair with all the added steps and after getting the old oil pan off they would not go back on with an oil pan for a day or so afterwards as they needed to make sure all of the oil that was in the engine was completely drained out. Then the bottom side of the block would be cleaned thoroughly and sealant applied to both the bottom of the block and the oil pan allowing it to set up for several hours or a day before reinstalling the oil pan. It will be sometime in the middle of next month before I contact the dealer and set up the appointment for the repair.

Has anyone heard of this updated procedure for repairing the oil leak? According to the shop manager the new procedure was supposed to have just came out this last August. Does anyone know what the full written procedure is and if so can you share it?

I saw a different procedure posted somewhere but it didn't state on it the added time for allowing all the oil to completely drain from the engine and it called for installing the oil pan within 15 minutes of applying the RTV sealant.
Hi all, wanted to bump this thread as I am heading in for my 3rd oil pan in 7 months on Monday! Dealership can't get it right, so curious if anyone does know of, or have, a full proven write up of the procedure that actually works that I could print off and bring with me for them to do? Hate having to tell them how to do their jobs, but from what I can tell they are doing it all same day, slapping it together since it's a warranty repair, and sending me down the road! Thanks in advance for any info or suggestions!
 

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Someone posted an excellent YouTube video of "doing it properly"

Seems like the 2 most critical steps to getting a successful seal are (1) CLEAN-DRY surfaces on the block, and (2) working efficiently time wise on applying the RTV bead and assembling before it starts to set too much.

I'm kinda curious what makes these oil pans a single-use pan? I'm guessing that plastic bonding edge can't be prepped to take to RTV a second time?

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Someone posted an excellent YouTube video of "doing it properly"

Seems like the 2 most critical steps to getting a successful seal are (1) CLEAN-DRY surfaces on the block, and (2) working efficiently time wise on applying the RTV bead and assembling before it starts to set too much.

I'm kinda curious what makes these oil pans a single-use pan? I'm guessing that plastic bonding edge can't be prepped to take to RTV a second time?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Is this video the "gospel" when it comes to this procedure you are referring to:

I am going to be e-mailing my dealership ahead of the install to make sure an overnight drip dry is done. I am very much betting that is what wasn't done in the first 2...
 

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2021 Powerboost Platinum FX4 Kodiak Brown.... Oops, I mean 2022 Powergrid KingRanch in Shiney White
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Is this video the "gospel" when it comes to this procedure you are referring to:

I am going to be e-mailing my dealership ahead of the install to make sure an overnight drip dry is done. I am very much betting that is what wasn't done in the first 2...
It's a pretty good bet, not 100% of course, that the fella(s) at your dealership are repeating the "mistake" that they are unintentionally making.

The problem is that they often feel insulted when a customer attempts to assist them. Especially with "internet knowledge"

It's one of man's less desirable traits. Tender ego. Lol

Good luck!

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Loctite blue smurf glue. The best sealer you can use, we use 1000's of tubes a year at work. That **** sticks to oily surfaces.
 

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I am currently on my fifth oil Pan. Mine is a 2016 with about 46,000miles dealership that I went to wants the engine block replaced and said it is unacceptable that this truck keeps leaking since obviously replacing the pan isn’t working. Here’s to getting a new block this has been a pain.
 

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I am currently on my fifth oil Pan. Mine is a 2016 with about 46,000miles dealership that I went to wants the engine block replaced and said it is unacceptable that this truck keeps leaking since obviously replacing the pan isn’t working. Here’s to getting a new block this has been a pain.
How many things can go wrong replacing an engine block?
 
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