F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

21 - 40 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
So you ended up building your own enclosure or did they build your design for you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
All,

Just so you know prior to installing, a LC7i or similar DSP will not work in this truck. You need a 6 input DSP minimum, but I would buy an 8 input DSP like the audiocontrol DM-810 ideally.
The reason for this is that the factory audio is major hacked... The high frequencies for your tweeters can only be found by tapping the factory pillar tweeters directly. The pillar tweeters and center channel are ran directly off of the factory head unit, the front door speakers, rear door speakers, and subwoofer are ran off of the factory amplifier.. If you do not run all channels through Your DSP, you will experience some major time alignment issues.

If you are just adding an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier to your stock system, you will tap directly off of the subwoofer outputs on the factory amplifier. There are 2 channels since it's a DVC sub.
If you are adding amplification for mids and highs, you will also need to install resistors to the wires between the factory amp and DSP. Otherwise, you will get no sound at all. No resistors are needed for subwoofer channel or 3 channels that run off of the factory head unit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,089 Posts
Since I didn't wire everything up myself, I'm not completely sure if I'm off base here, but did using the AP4-FD21 interface module address this issue?
I'm pretty sure they used that to interface the factory head unit with the aftermarket amps. And yes, they used an 8-12 DSP, so 8 inputs.
And as you stated, the factory amp is still onboard playing a role for whatever reasons.

You know way more about this stuff than me.


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP...9061&awdv=c&awkw=ap4-fd21&awmt=e&awnw=o&awat=
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I'm no expert either ,but I would say if Mobile Toys installed one of those on your truck, I probably need to get one :)

Since I didn't wire everything up myself, I'm not completely sure if I'm off base here, but did using the AP4-FD21 interface module address this issue?
I'm pretty sure they used that to interface the factory head unit with the aftermarket amps. And yes, they used an 8-12 DSP, so 8 inputs.
And as you stated, the factory amp is still onboard playing a role for whatever reasons.

You know way more about this stuff than me.


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP...9061&awdv=c&awkw=ap4-fd21&awmt=e&awnw=o&awat=
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,089 Posts
Haha.

Again, I might not be saying it exactly right, but when Adam Pate explained each component, that "interface module" made it far easier to leverage the OEM Sync 3 system without having to splice or rig anything or cut in or......Instead it let them capture a clean uncolored signal to take to the DSP. But admittedly, when they explained why the OEM amp was still necessary, I don't recall what they said. I just remember it not being used as an amplifier, ironically.

As pleased as I am with the sound, I really love the fact the user interface is still the same as everyone else's truck, with zero compromise on sound.

If it weren't for the A-pillars, who'd even know?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Hello Everyone!

New member to the Ecoboost forum, but I've been trolling the threads for a looking to see if anyone had replaced the B&O stereo system in the 2018 model trucks.
I didn't find much info so I figured I would join and post a thread on how I wired the truck and how it sounds.

First let me say, I have had this truck for 10 days. I bought it one day before I left on a 650 mile drive to Tampa Florida from Asheville North Carolina (figured it would make the drive more comfy:p)
About half way through the trip, I had had enough, reached up to the dash and turned the radio off. I literally could not take it anymore. This is by far the worst sounding "premium" stereo system I have ever owned or even heard. If I had to guess, I would say about a quarter of the frequencies heard by the human ear are being eliminated by the B&O signal processor so the cheap paper speakers can better handle music.

My last truck was a 2009 XLT that I installed a complete Infinity Kappa sound system in. Let me say, it will be very hard to go back to any factory stereo after my last truck.
I was running a PAC line Converter, 5 channel amplifier, Kappa door speakers front and rear (not component), and a 10" subwoofer in a sealed center console enclosure.

For some people the B&O system my be good enough, for the other 99.9% that want to upgrade, here's my parts list from Crutchfield.com.

$539.99 AudioControl DM-608 Digital Signal Processor)
$349.99 Rockford Fosgate T400X4AD (Door Speakers)
$60.98 Rockford Fosgate PLC2 (x2) Remote Level Controllers
$299.99 Rockford Fosgate T400X2AD (Subs)
$112.49 Rockford Fosgate RFK4D Dual Amplifier Wiring Kit
$239.98 Rockford Fosgate P2D4-8 (x2) Subwoofers
$69.99 Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S 6/3/4" Component System (Front Doors & Pillars)
$39.99 Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675X2 6-3/4" 2 Way Speakers (Rear Doors)
$0.00 Metra 82-5607 Front Speaker Adapters (Crutchfield Freebie)
$0.00 Metra 82-5605 Rear Speaker Adapters (Crutchfield Freebie)

All of my parts were delivered on 01/03/2018, I have replaced all of the factory speakers so far (only broke one clip and snapped one bolt :rolleyes:). It was dark and about 12 degree's outside when I started the install, I was frozen and frustrated, so I didn't take any photos. I can say that it was very easy to do. I soldered all of my connections and used heat shrink to cover the wires back up. The speaker adapters were a little off... I had to drill out the Rockford speaker mounting holes to get the adapters to line up, but overall, it was an easy swap.

I will comment here: after swapping all of the speakers, the sound was actually worse than factory. This is due to two things; the factory B&O DSP and the Rockford speakers being under powered.
So, if you are thinking of swapping speakers for better sound, save your money.

Tonight, I removed the B&O subwoofer enclosure behind the rear seat and scoped out the wiring from the B&O amplifier/ DSP.
I also called AudioControl to hear what they recommend when it comes to integrating the DSP. They stated that one should NEVER integrate their DSP by tapping into the signal wires before the factory amplifier, nor should one remove the factory amplifier. If you do remove it, you will lose audio notifications (door chime, backup sensor warning, etc.)
Tomorrow (hopefully) I will have time to tap the AudioControl DSP into the factory signal wires at the amp.

I should probably note, I will be raising the rear seat about 5/8" to make room for a forward firing subwoofer enclosure. The enclosure will be ported and tuned to 35hz.
I designed the box in a free program called WinISD Pro Alpha then made a 3D model of the enclosure in AutoCAD. I will share the plans for the box if anyone is interested.

You will likely scoff when the first photos of the enclosure are posted, but understand, the enclosure will incorporate a series of cover panels to make the enclosure appear to be factory made.
The cover panels will take some serious time to build and finish, but hopefully will be worth it in the end!
I agree that these systems are horrible. I think my 07 Tundra JBL system is better than the B&O system. I have thought about doing a major upgrade but right now I am focused on a cargo trailer conversion for off road camping.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,898 Posts
LOL, I just rode in my coworkers 2018 Plati with the B&O system and though it sounded 10x better than the Sony system in my 2014.

Beautiful truck! I still think Ford should have put the 3.5 HO on that trim to make it more "Limited" they did that with the Lincoln Navigator..
They are doing this for 2019. Not that the 3.5 HO is all that special.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sp4ce4gent

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
All,

Just so you know prior to installing, a LC7i or similar DSP will not work in this truck. You need a 6 input DSP minimum, but I would buy an 8 input DSP like the audiocontrol DM-810 ideally.
The reason for this is that the factory audio is major hacked... The high frequencies for your tweeters can only be found by tapping the factory pillar tweeters directly. The pillar tweeters and center channel are ran directly off of the factory head unit, the front door speakers, rear door speakers, and subwoofer are ran off of the factory amplifier.. If you do not run all channels through Your DSP, you will experience some major time alignment issues.

If you are just adding an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier to your stock system, you will tap directly off of the subwoofer outputs on the factory amplifier. There are 2 channels since it's a DVC sub.
If you are adding amplification for mids and highs, you will also need to install resistors to the wires between the factory amp and DSP. Otherwise, you will get no sound at all. No resistors are needed for subwoofer channel or 3 channels that run off of the factory head unit.
If I am installing an aftermarket amp and sub, does it matter which sub channel I pull my signal from? My sub I'm adding is a single voice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Is anyone using the factory center speaker up in the dash or just disconnecting it when the door speakers are replaced with aftermarket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Thought I read B&O head unit but Karmen speakers?
B&O sold it's car audio arm to Harman Kardon in 2015 for $145 million and then Samsung paid something like $8 Billion to buy Harmon International which owns JBL, Harman Kardon, Mark Levinson, AKG, Lexicon< Infinity, and Revel. Harman alsolicenses Bowers&Wilkins and B&O for automotive business.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I would also like to know which sub channel to pull from? I have a single voice coil as well and need a signal to go into my Lc6i.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Wow, another $1700 (according to OP price listing) saved due to hearing loss from military jets!
 
  • Like
Reactions: snakebitten

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I know this is an old thread. I am just planning on upgrading the subwoofer and tapping into the subwoofer connector in order to get a signal to my line out converter (LC7i) to then go to the subwoofer amplifier.

Is there anyone that can tell me the labeling of the colored wires for either the male or female end of the subwoofer connector? I think people said there are two coils for the subwoofer so should I open up the subwoofer box and look at the terminals to see + and -?

thanks
Z
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2020 Ford F-150
Joined
·
7 Posts
Dtanner, awesome job.

And thanks again for the heads-up a few weeks ago about the College Station folks. They are first class.
I might have seen them building your subwoofer enclosure. If not, it was very similar.

As for the BO kit that comes in our new trucks, I'm reluctant to straight up call it "junk", but I get your point.
I've had a lot of trucks and in my opinion this had the best sounding OEM setup yet. But that doesn't say as much as it might sound. ;)

For the fella that was wondering what fit easily in our trucks, this is what came out of mine:

Tweets and center



Doors.





Sub (I didn't even know this was in the truck. I admit there were some "lows" that I was surprised to hear, but never the kind that made me think a sub was present. Kind of funny if you think about it)


If you like to read or you need help in speakers Ford f150, then follow the site greencountryoffroad.com/best-speakers-for-ford-f150/
What size speakers are in a 2020 Ford f150?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,942 Posts
What size speakers are in a 2020 Ford f150?
6x9 in front doors, 6x5 in the rear doors
And i believe 1" tweeters in the windshield pillars. Could be wrong on that exact size though as far as a tweeters


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top