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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, here goes; AC compressor has completely broken off from block. At least two bolts have sheared and are still in the block. Current garage says they can't reach to extract because the frame rail is there.
Will make call to dealership and few other garages tomorrow as this info came to me too late.
Anyone have thoughts on a solution if bolts cannot be extracted due to frame rail?
Photo was taken days before it broke while I was locating a coolant leak. Leak at trans oil cooler lines due to rust.


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Wow , never heard of this before. Engine is going to have to be pulled or maybe it can be lifted off motor mounts and tilted to get at bolt holes. Depending on your finance i would cut the belt and drive it till you figure out when and where you can get it it fixed. Sucks man . At least you don't live in Arizona.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That option doesn't really work as it's in the nineties here in the Carolinas. Belt came off on its own and has since been cut off to avoid getting Tangled in serpinten belt.
With compressor removed there should be a good 5" or more of room to get at those bolts. We'll see.

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Use a tap out with a 90 degree drill. If that doesn't work try a flexible drill chuck through the wheel well. This should be doable in the truck. When i pulled my compressor I was able to get a rachet with a 3" extension plus the socket. So I think you're right, there's about 5" there to work with. Good luck on the rescue mission!

BTW, How did the compressor break off? Curious minds would like to know.
 

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What's eating up your truck so badly? First a coolant leak thanks to rusted trans cooler lines, then the AC compressor breaks off? Too much road salt and not enough washing?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Truck is definitely a Yankee! Picked her up certified new in Detroit area, 2011 model, and took her to NJ until last year. Now back south in Charlotte area. She's been washed as frequently as possible except during those months where it's not above freezing. 206k miles, and no I'm not dumping her.
My thought could be the bolts were over torqued by a jackass and time lead to them breaking due to the pull from the belt. When I found the belt was not on compressor it had lost one whole V notch around the circumference. A tech may have unbolted it to fit the belt on and over torqued, vs. using the zip tie method Ford came up with.
I have a call into dealership and pleaded they ask a technician and call me back. Still waiting.
In an apartment until end of July, so not much I'm able to do for her til then.

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The bolt posts on the compressor seem to fit small socket towers on the block. Not sure what year you have, but when reinstalling I found that unless I alternated the tightening of the bolts very evenly, these posts would would not go inside the socket, but would bind on the lip. It felt as though it was getting "tighter" but really the compressor was not seated into these sockets all the way. The compressor has to go on directly perpendicular to the plane of the socket to get it to mate properly. There is a bolt sleeve I see listed at Tasca, so perhaps that is what I was feeling going into the block hole. I doubt it was bolted down properly. I don't think the force of the belt could have sheared those bolts off if it was seated all the way down properly. I could be wrong though..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Those sleeves you speak of are called spacers. They are still attached to the compressor, but are no longer round. Could be that they were not seated properly as you mention. I'm to get truck back this evening with compressor completely removed. I'll try to get pics and post them.

parts for the compressor mounting are;
E9SZ-19E744-B (compressor spacers)
W704750-S437 (Compressor Assembly Mount Bolts)


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Are the bolts broken flush at the block?

FYI: I'm a heavy equipment mechanic and I extract broken bolts all the time - F the drilling/easy out BS, rent a small 110v MIG welder and weld the center of a washer (that has a smaller internal diameter then the bolt) to the exposed part of the bolt. Then, weld a nut to the washer. Use a wrench on the nut to unscrew the bolt.

If the bolt is broken slightly below the surface of the block, you can do several layers of tack welds to build up to where you can then weld the washer.

This process is one of the best ways to extract bolts without screwing up a bunch of other stuff.
 

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While I agree the welding method is superior for bolt extraction, it's not for any amateurs because the block is aluminum and can melt much faster at those temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Of the connection areas I could get photos of, these are the best. Missing is the upper rear bolt connection. Couldn't get photo of that one without maybe a selfie stick contorted.
It's in a shop now that insist they'll get er done. They broke a drill bit today and ordered another. Thinking they'll have it finished by tomorrow. Crossing fingers.
Consensus thought from those that I've spoken to is bolts backed themselves out over time and then got to the point where shear stresses were too much. I'd suggest checking ac compressor bolts on high mileage Ecoboost trucks.
I'll follow up as to completion and cost.


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Discussion Starter #13
Sadly breaking that bit off inside the bolt is in many situations the worst case scenario. Drill bits don’t like drilling broken drill bits.
I didn't get the impression bit broke off inside, but that it just broke on them.
Wishing I was out of my apartment situation and into new house. That is at least 6 weeks off and all tools have to still be brought back up from family property in GA...

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While I agree the welding method is superior for bolt extraction, it's not for any amateurs because the block is aluminum and can melt much faster at those temps.
Disagree - steel bolts in aluminum have one silver lining, as the weld will not stick to the aluminum. Also, tack welding in bursts of 2 to 4 seconds will not generate enough heat (especially with a 110v mig with .023 or .030wire) to melt the aluminum.

Extracted plenty of bolts in aluminum (especially 6.0L GM heads with broken exhaust manifold bolts) and never had an issue with melting the aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good info, but hope I don't have to invest in a mig welder. When I completed the CRP manifold replacement couple years ago, of course I had two broken studs. Only saving Grace then was the accessibility thru wheel well. Darn frame rail is the problem here.
Hopefully good news today

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I didn't get the impression bit broke off inside, but that it just broke on them.
Wishing I was out of my apartment situation and into new house. That is at least 6 weeks off and all tools have to still be brought back up from family property in GA...

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I’m sorry, I thought that one of the pictures was showing a broken bit in the stud. Bad eyes. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just got the good news, broken bolts are out! She'll be ready tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter #18
SMH... 1600 with labor, new compressor and ac service... But damn she's fun to drive!!!

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