F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have a 2012. Same issue under heavy throttle when the plugs get more than 45k miles on them. I'm on my third set of plugs now with 112k miles on the truck. Cylinder 6 is where my misfire occurs. Previous poster is correct, stay in there throttle and let the thing shake like hell and it will throw a code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
mine was always no 1 cylinder so i put new plugs and msd coils . i drilled the weep hole in the intercooler and put duel catch cans .have not had anymore problems
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,408 Posts
When that misfire/stumble occurs you need to not accelerate further. If it keeps shaking, it's not going to clear anything and smooth out. You'll just wallow out the pinion seal in the rear diff. or the tranny seal. Ask me how I know.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
We were just describing how to get a code to stick... for the record, continued throttle is definitely not recommended.

better to know what’s happening and go through the plug replacement cycle if/when first sign of misfire returns

Edit: gotta be sure to clear any intercooler buildup from the mix as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
i put dual catch cans on my 2012 you would not believe the crap that comes out
I did the same thing plus the CAC drain hole, although it so far is always dry. I figure that in rainy weather and high humidity days my dual catch can gathers about a liter of gunk in 3000 miles. I also do a CRC intake valve clean about every two oil changes. 2011 F150 is hitting close to 60K miles, but is running very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
If you have a dry IC, operational spark plugs, drained your catch cans (if any), and cleaned the backside of the throttle body, you might have an intermittent spark plug coil pack. Such was my issue a few ago.

Related YouTube link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,408 Posts
Yeah it's strange how those coils can fail. I had one fail on me like that. It was fine putt putting in town, but when you gave it the heavy foot, it would fail to produce. Almost like it lost the ability to fire fast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Put new plugs in her and running great. Seems to be running better that it ever has. Thanks for all the assistance guys.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I had the exact same issue on a road trip while passing a car, errrrr. I thought my transmission was going out! When I got home put in my OBD2 coder (Amazon.com: Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal Scanner Adapter Check Engine Light Diagnostic Tool for iOS & Android: Electronics), misfire on cylinder 2. I did drill the 1/16" weep hole in the inter-cooler, some liquid but not as much as I've seen in YouTube videos. I changed the spark plugs and runs like new! I left the 1/16" hole, I'm in Houston and I think this liquid (the little I had) fouled out the plug(s). You can always put in a little screw in the weep hole. I left mine open, no difference for what I can tell...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thanks for the feedback. After doing some reading it seems it will tell you the cylinder that misfired with a P030x. But you all know this. I'm thinking it may be more of a intercooler/moisture issue with the long drive at a steady state.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I recently had the same issue and it was a bad coil No. 1 cylinder. Had that replaced and all new spark plugs and no mor missing when I get on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Crawl under neith and look at your intercooler seals. My 2012 blew a seal and drove fine, only misfiring while trying to "rapildy" accelerate. If your turbo seal is blown there should be a greasy leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
7 days after I installed a catch can. Safe to say it works as advertised.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
It doesn’t leak on my driveway... there is evidence on the air dam but not really the under carriage. If you find gunk inside, I recommend pulling the IC and cleaning it rather than drilling a hole to spray the full contents everywhere... once cleaned out if you drill the hole, the volume at any given time won’t be tremendous.

A catch can is another alternative. Won’t eliminate all condensate but should take majority of the oil out of the equation.
I’ve been using a catch can for about 30K and it seems to have taken care of the issue for me. I also change my plugs every 60K, and my odometer is at 113500 now.
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top