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Discussion Starter #1
165K miles. Been getting the rattle more and more (3-5 sec on cold start). This winter it happened about every 4th start irregardless of how long it set. Now it's doing it almost every time from a cold start. I'd like to get another year out of this truck but...

What is the fix costing from dealers and knowledgable non-dealers? $2-3k?
I've bumped into a few older posts that state don't worry about it until you get code P0016. Not sure if that is true. Can the rattle damage out any parts/wear long before a code shows?

My truck runs good enough and I still get 22MPG @ 65MPH on the freeway but I hope to tow our RV with it this summer for about 2500 miles. I've got a list of other things to tune and fix before that trip but paying chain and tensions is not one of them.

Thx any any useful or real world experience!
 

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Have you tried the OPPCST?

(oil pressure priming cold start technique)

If you aren't getting the code and you can stop the 3 seconds of havoc on those phasers....... Well, you could argue that you can safely kick this can farther down the road?

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you tried the OPPCST?

(oil pressure priming cold start technique)

If you aren't getting the code and you can stop the 3 seconds of havoc on those phasers....... Well, you could argue that you can safely kick this can farther down the road?

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Intersting...I had not seen the OPPCST mentioned before so I'll give it a try to see if he helps.

So I understand the chain is stretched and/or phasers are worn but is the actual sound for lack of oil in some area or simply the slap of the chain onto something from the stretch? I guess reduction of friction (the noise represents) cannot be a bad thing!

Will report back.
 

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Theory is, and it's just a theory, that if the truck sits and the oil drains enough out of the "system on top" (phasers, etc) you get that clack until the oil pressure fills everything back up.

It actually makes sense too since it rears its ugly head on "cold starts", primarily. Right?

So the strategy is to address exactly that!
Pre-pressurize the whole life-blood (oil) system before firing that beast up.

I gotta ask though......
I just completely made up that acronym and you immediately made sense of it! How'd you do that? Lol

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I gotta ask though......
I just completely made up that acronym and you immediately made sense of it! How'd you do that? Lol

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I actually searched that acronym haha

I'm curious how you prim the oil, guess I can do some searching myself though
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I gotta ask though......
I just completely made up that acronym and you immediately made sense of it! How'd you do that? Lol

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I have to admit it was a little work...

I pride myself in professional goog'lin skills and actually researching forums before posting. It's why I get so mad at the cranky old timers who are like "this has been covered 101 times!" crowd. With that said the acronym didn't come up with much but spelling out your words took me to a lot of angry old time engine builders arguing over the technique and one Ecooboost youtube video shown here:


I had seen the technique with a lot of European cars I've owned running many of Bosches systems over the year.

NOTE: I Just tried it. 10 seconds and still go the rattle but maybe not as bad. Will continue over a few days of cold starts to see if it's an improvement. at 165K miles I may be past that point! Plus it defeats the purpose of my auto start features!
 

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Do a fresh oil change and Motorcraft filter.
Many many folks get great results from fresh oil.

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I have to admit it was a little work...

I pride myself in professional goog'lin skills and actually researching forums before posting. It's why I get so mad at the cranky old timers who are like "this has been covered 101 times!" crowd. With that said the acronym didn't come up with much but spelling out your words took me to a lot of angry old time engine builders arguing over the technique and one Ecooboost youtube video shown here:


I had seen the technique with a lot of European cars I've owned running many of Bosches systems over the year.

NOTE: I Just tried it. 10 seconds and still go the rattle but maybe not as bad. Will continue over a few days of cold starts to see if it's an improvement. at 165K miles I may be past that point! Plus it defeats the purpose of my auto start features!
That video came up in a Google search?

I'm a movie star already? Lol

I made that about a week ago while sitting in the driveway of a friend's house. I had been driving another vehicle for a few days and so my truck had sat and I have been using the procedure in those circumstances. Could all be just folly, who knows for sure?

You could be right though about your truck. But honestly, if I get 150K miles outta this beast before it clacks, and 2-3$k will potentially get me another 50, 75,100? I probably won't cry.

Afterall, a set of fancy tires for these things are now close to 2 thou$and.

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Discussion Starter #10
That video came up in a Google search?

I'm a movie star already? Lol

I made that about a week ago while sitting in the driveway of a friend's house. I had been driving another vehicle for a few days and so my truck had sat and I have been using the procedure in those circumstances. Could all be just folly, who knows for sure?

You could be right though about your truck. But honestly, if I get 150K miles outta this beast before it clacks, and 2-3$k will potentially get me another 50, 75,100? I probably won't cry.

Afterall, a set of fancy tires for these things are now close to 2 thou$and.

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Yep...I think it was about the third video that came up in my search so you must have tagged it with those same words in some way!

Don't get me started on money with these things...I've put twice as much into my Eccoboost as any European car I've ever owned...and my confidence is a bit low at the moment. I'm trying to make her good for a 2.5K mile trip here in 3 weeks and figure out if I want to keep her after that. Need front hubs and the chain/tensioners/phasers replaced. Not cheap but the engine feels pretty good and I see no reason these should be able to get 250-300K with the common/systemic issues fixed. With all that said it's a tow & haul beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Do a fresh oil change and Motorcraft filter.
Many many folks get great results from fresh oil.

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I'll have one coming up after a trip in a few weeks...but confidence is low. I've had the clacking over the last 4 oil changes (DIY). Don't recall if the last filter was motocraft...but prob was because I seem to recall it being cheaper at our local Meijers (hard to believe).
 

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My 2014 with 61,600 miles just started this rattle noise on Thursday and I have an appointment with local Ford dealer/garage on Wednesday. I’ll leave the truck Tuesday nite so they can have an opportunity to hear it on a cold start and make decision on what fix is. Anything I should make sure of when they assess repair. After reading posts to this blog I’m guessing it will be a TSB 18-2305.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just an update...

I have a technique working to elevate or minimize the rattle. For me a no-start for 10 sec proceeded by a small wait. Then another 5-6 sec attempt and then I let my foot off the gas as I continue to crank. This has reduced it in a few cases removed it. It's a pretty battle rattle these days...so major help until fixed or sold!
 

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Just an update...

I have a technique working to elevate or minimize the rattle. For me a no-start for 10 sec proceeded by a small wait. Then another 5-6 sec attempt and then I let my foot off the gas as I continue to crank. This has reduced it in a few cases removed it. It's a pretty battle rattle these days...so major help until fixed or sold!

You might try an oil change, Motorcraft filter like mentioned above by Snake. This has in many cases reduced this rattle. Including on my own truck. Used Castrol Magnatec 5w-30 in mine. Also might try to use a higher octane gas. Nothing but 93 touches my truck's injectors. This combo nets my particular truck good results.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You might try an oil change, Motorcraft filter like mentioned above by Snake. This has in many cases reduced this rattle. Including on my own truck. Used Castrol Magnatec 5w-30 in mine. Also might try to use a higher octane gas. Nothing but 93 touches my truck's injectors. This combo nets my particular truck good results.
Mike...thanks for the comments but I'm not seeing any science in this. Using higher octane fuel when it's not called or his kind of a old wives tale that's been disproved on many occasions and it's a stretch to think octane has anything todo with a known cam phaser and/or chain stretch is quite a stretch of the imagination IMHO. I've read enough on octane over the years that it seems some of the claims people have is right up there with the believe that rotors warp from daily driving!

As far as the oil cannot argue that one as we know they can be off from brand to brand...but again as stated I've had this rattle get progressively worse irregardless of a fresh change.
 

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Mike...thanks for the comments but I'm not seeing any science in this. Using higher octane fuel when it's not called or his kind of a old wives tale that's been disproved on many occasions and it's a stretch to think octane has anything todo with a known cam phaser and/or chain stretch is quite a stretch of the imagination IMHO. I've read enough on octane over the years that it seems some of the claims people have is right up there with the believe that rotors warp from daily driving!

As far as the oil cannot argue that one as we know they can be off from brand to brand...but again as stated I've had this rattle get progressively worse irregardless of a fresh change.
Well, to each his own I guess. Some people think it's ok to stretch oil for 10k miles on these trucks too, just because the oil bottle or the manual say so. Good luck with your timing chain swap.

Edit: I'll not leave you hanging on the octane thing either. The perceived science in this, is that some of us who take short trips to work, say less than 10 minutes, and especially in the winter get to see our oil trashed by fuel saturation. Before these warm up, they run rich cycles. The more octane would theoretically provide a better burn, thus leaving far less fuel saturation in the oil, not thinning it out, like these engines don't like, at all. It's cool. I'm not claiming it works for everyone. In fact, in my first post, I never even claimed it'd work in anyone but my truck.
 

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Well, to each his own I guess. Some people think it's ok to stretch oil for 10k miles on these trucks too, just because the oil bottle or the manual say so. Good luck with your timing chain swap.

Edit: I'll not leave you hanging on the octane thing either. The perceived science in this, is that some of us who take short trips to work, say less than 10 minutes, and especially in the winter get to see our oil trashed by fuel saturation. Before these warm up, they run rich cycles. The more octane would theoretically provide a better burn, thus leaving far less fuel saturation in the oil, not thinning it out, like these engines don't like, at all. It's cool. I'm not claiming it works for everyone. In fact, in my first post, I never even claimed it'd work in anyone but my truck.
On the contrary, the lower the octane, the quicker and more complete it will burn.
The bad side of it, is that it will not help to mitigate knock when timing is advanced, or boost is increased, due to pre-igniting when the conditions allow for it.

Octane rating won't help or hinder the issue with the phasers.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
It's amazing the theories on people equating octane with power or healthier fuel...when actually clean fuel is more important.

I always appreciate peoples activism on keeping their cars top notch but it's amazing the things we worry about in light of understanding the science. Just because something is theorical posible doesn't mean it has any real world applicate for the average consumer.

Just like the old timers (I say that with love Dad) that cannot get over newer cars have 10K mile oil intervals. I get it...engineers do make mistakes but with advanced algorithms to determine hours, temps, cold/heat cycles, load, over revs, towing...they have a pretty good grip on what the items they design can do. Engines have such high tolerances compared to the days of 3K oil changes...but dad cannot help live in the past!

I'm highjacking my own thread because I love these topics...so I'll copy/paste an article I read awhile back on AAA that I keep in my notes to share. As stated it's right up there with those who tell me they "warped" their rotors...

Americans wasted $2.1 billion last year on premium fuel for cars designed to run on regular gasoline, according to a new study from AAA. Despite common misconceptions stemming from its higher price tag and elite-sounding name, premium fuel doesn't provide any benefits for engines that aren't built for it, experts say.
"Drivers see the 'premium' name at the pump and may assume the fuel is better for their vehicle," said John Nielsen, AAA's managing director of Automotive Engineering and Repair, in a news release Tuesday. "AAA cautions drivers that premium gasoline is higher octane, not higher quality, and urges drivers to follow the owner's manual recommendations for their vehicle's fuel."
Higher octane gasoline is able to withstand higher pressures inside the engine than cheaper, regular gasoline. But the pressure inside engines that are designed to run on regular gasoline isn't great enough to require the higher octane rating, rendering premium fuel useless.
"Premium gasoline is specifically formulated to be compatible with specific types of engine designs, and most vehicles cannot take advantage of the higher octane rating," said Megan McKernan, manager of the Automobile Club of Southern California's Automotive Research Center. "Using premium fuel in a vehicle designed for regular is like throwing dollars out the window while you are driving."
Although the majority of vehicles — 70 percent — run on regular gasoline, approximately 16.5 million drivers put premium fuel in their cars at least once last year, AAA found. When you consider that premium costs, on average, about 50 cents a gallon more than regular, which adds up to $2.1 billion wasted.
Drivers looking to upgrade their gasoline should seek out fuel of a higher quality, not a higher octane level, Mr. Nielsen said. A study published by AAA in July found that using higher quality gasoline results in significantly fewer engine deposits, increases vehicle performance, and improves fuel economy.
"AAA was surprised to learn the extent to which detergent additives impact gasoline quality," Nielsen said in July. "As advertised, tested TOP TIER gasolines kept engines remarkably cleaner than other fuels we tested."
On the flip side, some of the 16 percent of American drivers whose high-performance vehicles are meant to run on premium gas may wish to downgrade to regular due to the price difference. But the car website Edmunds.com advises car owners hoping to save some money to consult their owner's manual. If the vehicle is described as "premium recommended," it's safe to try switching to regular gasoline. But if your vehicle is "premium required," it's best to stick to high octane.

EDIT: As a side note I used to run lower octane in my Vw Touareg with a 3.6L for a few tanks at a time and never saw any difference and never got any denotation. While one of my Volvos (turbo) clearly didn't like low test.
 

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I have no beef with running lower octane if the motor was designed to be run on it AND it has no method for adjusting to a higher octane fuel and therefore leverage any advantages.

But that's just it. The Ecoboost, by design, DOES have the ability to leverage higher octane. It's really amazing.

I had only one other vehicle that had such an ability. A 1984 SVO Mustang with a turbocharged I4. It even had a factory dash switch for "Premium Fuel". In some ways it was a precursor to the Era of "tuning"?

But I agree that lots of motors out there are "hardwired" for 87 (or similar) and there's no discernable advantage of burning Premium.

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I have no beef with running lower octane if the motor was designed to be run on it AND it has no method for adjusting to a higher octane fuel and therefore leverage any advantages.

But that's just it. The Ecoboost, by design, DOES have the ability to leverage higher octane. It's really amazing.


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This. There is a difference in burning better octane on this platform. Octane does make more power. I can appreciate people's opinions on this too. Works for me doesn't always work for the next guy, nor will it always make sense. Maybe mine just runs like **** on 87 and I don't like it. Using better oil, changing more often, and doing the research on this will probably be the answer. I know mine can sit for 3 days and not rattle, when it was doing the rattle 50%+ of the time before (on cold soak).
 
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