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So my exhaust manifolds got hot and warped. Driver's side even broke a stud off. That was the only side I could hear while driving. So I took it to Ford. Three weeks and $1700 later they finally finished the driver's side and then let me know the passenger side was also leaking. I was not about to let them blow another 1700 of my dollars, so I took the truck back. They strongly cautioned me that driving the truck would destroy my turbo:unsure:.

What do you fella's think? Can exhaust leaking between the block and manifold cause any damage to the turbo? That doesn't make much sense to me, but I'm guessing there are plenty of you who know more than I do.

To be clear, I am going to fix it. Im fully capable of doing it myself, it's just a matter of finding the time.
 

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It's not going to damage the turbo no.
You could experience an engine light from the O2 sensor or a lie boost code.

I had to replace both of mine also, did the drivers side first then the pass side a couple months later.
Parts were cheap, under $200 for everything including the manifold.

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Zukgod. Kinda what I figured. Ordering all the parts tomorrow for $170.
 

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Do either of you have the part numbers for all the gaskets and water fittings that need/should to be replaced when doing this? I've got a leaky one and need to dig in but want to have everything in hand before starting.
 

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Do either of you have the part numbers for all the gaskets and water fittings that need/should to be replaced when doing this? I've got a leaky one and need to dig in but want to have everything in hand before starting.
When I called my local dealer and told them what I was doing they had it all in a kit. Meaning, they will get you everything in one pass.

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Have you thought about getting after market manifolds (CRP manifolds) to prevent this happening again?? Expensive yes but looking at the long run.🤔
 

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Have you thought about getting after market manifolds (CRP manifolds) to prevent this happening again?? Expensive yes but looking at the long run.
I thought about it but, $600 for just manifolds vs $300 including all the fasteners, gaskets, cooling lines and fittings for oe.
I went oe, been 20 k miles so far with no further issues.

I'm adding "check exhaust manifold fasteners" to my 15k check over as well.

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Guess we need to keep temps in check while towing up long grades in high temps😤
 

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Guess we need to keep temps in check while towing up long grades in high temps
You don't HAVE to.

But now we know what the risks are for not backing off a little if you are out of warranty.

You be wrenching in the driveway! Lol

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You don't HAVE to.

But now we know what the risks are for not backing off a little if you are out of warranty.

You be wrenching in the driveway! Lol
yep coming up to to my 7 year warranty soon and still under my 100,000
:sick:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have you thought about getting after market manifolds (CRP manifolds) to prevent this happening again?? Expensive yes but looking at the long run.🤔
Although I agree the OE manifolds do have a design flaw, I think a more inexpensive, easier, and all around beneficial way to go is replacing that worthless thermostat Ford puts in with one that opens at a much lower temp. After seeing my engine temp get that high I replaced mine and have not had a problem since.
 

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I've been driving with a chirpy drivers side manifold for 3 years. Mpgs haven't dropped, never had a lean code. No loss in power.
 

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I only hear it if I really stomp on it when it's cold.
 

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Ahh. It's in the second gen forum so I wasn't sure. Reading above, looks like a few 2nd gens as well.

Is the belief that this is due to warpage of the manifold caused by heat?
For sure. The last cyl on each side has a fairly large gap between fasteners. Once the furthest neck bolt fatigues enough and brakes of the manifold warps and you get the dreaded whistle.
I'm at be 60k and replaced both sides at this point.
1st at 38k and the second at 45k.

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So far the only "solution" I have seen for this is the CRP aftermarket manifolds. I have yet to see a single person say they warped or broke off studs. They are expensive, and given the cost of the OEM ones, you could probably replace them a few times before it makes sense to invest in the CRP manifolds. However, I don't know anyone looking forward to dropping downpipes and pulling turbos on a weekend. First time mine showed the issue, I just bit the bullet and replaced them with the CRPs. Done. Actually I have seen better performance when towing with them on. I can hold gears longer before the truck wants to downshift. YMMV, but the stock ones are absolute junk and the design flaw is really unacceptable. There should have been an additional stud on the mount.
 

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I agree with that ^^^^

Had I known about them when I did mine I probably will have gone that way.

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