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For sure. The last cyl on each side has a fairly large gap between fasteners. Once the furthest neck bolt fatigues enough and brakes of the manifold warps and you get the dreaded whistle.
I'm at be 60k and replaced both sides at this point.
1st at 38k and the second at 45k.

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Are the manifolds considered a warrantable item? I agree, this seems a bit ridiculous.

I'm curious as to whether the root cause is a) the manifold warping excessively, causing the bolt to shear and allowing it warp further, or b) the OEM bolts are just crap material, breaking due to stress under normal manifold expansion cycles.

Just a thought: could something as simple as replacing the OEMs with ARP's prevent the issue?
 

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Pretty sure it's a heat issue.
I drilled/tapped and installed EGT probes in both sides.
The temps I see are quite frankly, scary.
It idles at 800 deg. Pulling a long hill with my car hauler and I'll see 1700 deg for extended periods

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Are the manifolds considered a warrantable item? I agree, this seems a bit ridiculous.

I'm curious as to whether the root cause is a) the manifold warping excessively, causing the bolt to shear and allowing it warp further, or b) the OEM bolts are just crap material, breaking due to stress under normal manifold expansion cycles.

Just a thought: could something as simple as replacing the OEMs with ARP's prevent the issue?
You may have to search around a little, but there is a thread In the chat section that provides the part number for the Stainless Steel studs that are part of a TSB for the 5.4’s. They are a direct replacement.

@WooBoost knows the number.


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Discussion Starter #24
True^^^ if I had any idea that the Dealer had intentions of charging me 15 hours of labor on a job that I (not a trained mechanic by any stretch) got done in 6, then I probably would have bought the CRPs as well and done both sides myself.
 

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We need all the part numbers for the water connectors, studs and everything in one easy spot. I know someone said the dealership had a kit, but mine doesn't know what that is so it's probably something that dealer see a lot of and has their own order system for. I've got to do mine and don't want to tear into it until I have all the parts on hard.
 

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We need all the part numbers for the water connectors, studs and everything in one easy spot. I know someone said the dealership had a kit, but mine doesn't know what that is so it's probably something that dealer see a lot of and has their own order system for. I've got to do mine and don't want to tear into it until I have all the parts on hard.
I agree, however the issue is those numbers change quite a bit and it's a full time job keeping them current. Last thing you want to do is put a list out with old parts and have people get upset for no reason.

And the dealer knows EXACTLY what parts you need. The parts people always play stupid because they want you to drop the truck off at service so they make more money.

Pretty sure it's a heat issue.
I drilled/tapped and installed EGT probes in both sides.
The temps I see are quite frankly, scary.
It idles at 800 deg. Pulling a long hill with my car hauler and I'll see 1700 deg for extended periods

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That's pretty scary. No wonder the turbos get so hot on these trucks. It's not generating so much heat per se, it just has a blowtorch of flames going through the exhaust side!
 

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Although I agree the OE manifolds do have a design flaw, I think a more inexpensive, easier, and all around beneficial way to go is replacing that worthless thermostat Ford puts in with one that opens at a much lower temp. After seeing my engine temp get that high I replaced mine and have not had a problem since.
Excellent idea. I'm a new 3.5 EB'er. If you don't mind, what was the OEM and replacement T-stat open temperatures?
Thank you.
 

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It's not going to damage the turbo no.
You could experience an engine light from the O2 sensor or a lie boost code.

I had to replace both of mine also, did the drivers side first then the pass side a couple months later.
Parts were cheap, under $200 for everything including the manifold.

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Hi there. New forum user here. I have a 2013 XL with the same issue. It sounds like you were able to DIY this specific project. Did you, in fact, remove the turbos to get this job done. When I say remove, I mean actually remove from coolant lines and all... I was hoping to be able to do this myself, but I fear removing all the fluid lines. Can I remove the turbo from the manifold and still keep all the lines connected and set aside a bit so I can work on the manifold? Sort of like putting the brake caliper to the side when changing brake pads. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hi there. New forum user here. I have a 2013 XL with the same issue. It sounds like you were able to DIY this specific project. Did you, in fact, remove the turbos to get this job done. When I say remove, I mean actually remove from coolant lines and all... I was hoping to be able to do this myself, but I fear removing all the fluid lines. Can I remove the turbo from the manifold and still keep all the lines connected and set aside a bit so I can work on the manifold? Sort of like putting the brake caliper to the side when changing brake pads. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Not really no. You need to remove the turbo completely to get the manifold out.

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Discussion Starter #33
Excellent idea. I'm a new 3.5 EB'er. If you don't mind, what was the OEM and replacement T-stat open temperatures?
Thank you.
The stock therm doesn't open until 190°. 😲🤯
The replacement one I installed opens at 170°. That still seemed high to me, but was the best I could find. My normal operating temps stay around 180° now. It's worth noting that although replacing the thermostat isn't super technical it's still a bit of a pain, so do your research and make sure you know what you're doing.👍
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hi there. New forum user here. I have a 2013 XL with the same issue. It sounds like you were able to DIY this specific project. Did you, in fact, remove the turbos to get this job done. When I say remove, I mean actually remove from coolant lines and all... I was hoping to be able to do this myself, but I fear removing all the fluid lines. Can I remove the turbo from the manifold and still keep all the lines connected and set aside a bit so I can work on the manifold? Sort of like putting the brake caliper to the side when changing brake pads. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Zukgod is correct, you have to completely remove the turbo. It's not uncommon to need to replace the coolant lines as well. If you're going to diy, don't assume you can reuse any gaskets or O-rings. It's not worth having to open everything back up because you tried to save a few bucks.
 

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