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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2011 FX4, gen1 3.5... Today, hopped in the truck to take it to the body shop. It cranked, started (I think) then shut itself off immediately. I turned off the key then tried to start again... All dash cluster lights, climate controls still working. Of the many times I repeated the key-out, key-in, try-and-start routine. I saw the "sys off to save BATT" message at least once. In the dash I am getting the following alerts:

  • battery
  • "Service Advance Track"
  • "Trailer Brake Module Fault"

I have had off-and-on problems with this battery (3rd napa legend on original purchase, had two warranty replacements. This third one is stamped march 2020. It never died outright, but would trigger the bms to dissable the media system at key off intermittently) so I went and grabbed a new motorcraft hoping for and easy fix as a lot of other members have experienced. Unfortunately, the new battery has not solved this one.

We towed our camper yesterday and left it hooked up over night, everything was working properly. This morning I unhitched, started the truck and moved it closer to the garage to finish unloading a few things... also vacuumed the rugs so it would be presentable during its stay at the body shop. After that, the "no crank, no start" condition presented itself along with the aforementioned warning lights... so far no DTC's showing when I scan for codes. I can hear the relays clicking at the passenger kick panel, also hear them in the "tunnel" when in park and brake pedal depressed, new starter march 2021.

I have the factory trailer brake controller, it was installed by the local dealer shortly after we purchased the truck new back in 2012. I have tried pulling the fuses for the brake controller both under passenger side dash and at the power distribution panel under the hood to no avail.

Sure hope one of you guys has an idea of where I should look to rule out any other issues... my buddy is trying to get his scan tool set up with a Ford license so we can do a deeper dive into the can bus and see if anything looks awry.

EDIT: Update... MY problem was fixed by replacing a blown 15A fuse, no. 30 in the engine's fuse/relay panel. I suspect some shoddy seat heater wiring shorted out while vacuuming the carpets and caused it to blow the next time I started the truck. That one tiny fuse presented all of this supposed trouble.

Read on for links to tech manuals, wiring diagrams and some other things you might look at, if you are having a similar problem, before you spend money at the stealership or mechanic's shop.

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U Codes are communication faults when power is lost to the pcm and/or has been flashed.

The P1899 is an interesting one.

DTC P1899:00 (Axle Disconnect Indicator Circuit Low: No Sub Type Information) — When not in locking mode, the TCCM senses the indicator circuit has low voltage and is always illuminated.

All in all your codes point to a loss of power. Could be anything from a dead battery or an open circuit. Check the relays in the power management block ( engine bay fuses ). There is also a ground strap located on the passenger side of the transmission. Just above the oil drain plug.

Any chance you can test the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
U Codes are communication faults when power is lost to the pcm and/or has been flashed.

The P1899 is an interesting one. I have never seen that before…

Any chance you can test the battery? Maybe even try unplugging the BMS. Does it crank at all?
New motorcraft battery… replaced it hoping it may be the root cause. Has 12.4 volts using my multimeter. Does not crank at all.

That ground connection looks good and is tight.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Try disconnecting the BMS sensor and starting the truck. See if anything happens. It will force the alternator to run in High Demand mode ( full power ).

I have a feeling it may be the relays or the alternator going out.
Is this all to disconnect bms? FWIW, we reset bms using forscan and i no longer have a battery light

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Is this all to disconnect bms? FWIW, we reset bms using forscan and i no longer have a battery light

View attachment 180934
That’s the one. See if the truck starts and drives.

If the BMS was not reset after changing the battery, it can shorten the life of the new battery and cause some funky things to happen. Simply because the adaptations are off.
 

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That’s the one. See if the truck starts and drives.

If the BMS was not reset after changing the battery, it can shorten the life of the new battery and cause some funky things to happen. Simply because the adaptations are off.
Same symptoms with bms disconnected, it will we did use forscan to reset bms

I remember I heard that your key transponder could be messed up. Easy check. Just try your spare key. Doesn’t cost anything to try anyways.

Can you get it out of park to put it in neutral?
both keys have been tried, goes out of park when brake depressed. Wont start in neutral either. Doors lock/unlock as they should with fob.

left the key on for a while trying to troubleshoot and a few more messages popped up… got a wrench, engine overheat and low oil pressure (no duh its not running!) Cycle the key and it starts over. Those last few warnings go away and will come back if key left on long enough.

im going to let it sit overnight and see if anything resets
 

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Did I miss if you tried jumpstarting ? All these symptoms are common when the battery voltage is low. Basically, it freaks out the computers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Did I miss if you tried jumpstarting ? All these symptoms are common when the battery voltage is low. Basically, it freaks out the computers.
I did try to jumpstart with the old battery. It seems either the thing freaked out and is now “stuck” that way, a module is not working (failed module or bad relay,) or there’s a short in the can-bus wiring.

Two things keep bringing me back to the idea of a short. 1.) I have aftermarket seat heaters that were installed with the katskins on behalf of the dealership when we bought the thing… they will not power on now and they appear to be getting their power from one of the harnesses coming out of the passenger kick panel fuse block. 2.) the one thing i did between run/no-run is to vacuum the carpets… did i manage to knock something loose? Hard to imagine but i am grasping at straws.

I figure it’s something very simple wreaking great havoc due to the complex and elaborate relationship between all the control modules.

It does seem all of the error dtc’s forscan found relate to the area in front of the driver
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No love from the fix-it-while-you-sleep fairies... I'll stay positive and say that's a good thing. I would prefer to find a definite culprit and fix it so we can be confident this wont creep up again later!

To that end, I want to start checking relays, something I do not know much about. How is that done? can you check them with a multi-meter or do I need to start swapping them around, buy a couple and try replacing them one at a time?

Also going to keep looking for shorts, loose ground(s), loose connectors that could have been knocked around by vacuuming.

Lastly, I cannot help but be suspicious of the wiring for the heated seats... Its a tragedy that a professional shop would do wiring like this to a brand new truck! Power for them is tapped off of one of the pinned connectors at the passenger kick fuse panel, 10A inline fuse and shared by both seats... a shoddy splice job was done and stashed under the passenger carpet up under the dash before routing to each seat via the center console. I need to find where they spliced them again to the actual seat heater pigtails. Hoping they did not short out and fry a module somewhere

A wiring diagram would be super helpful so I can at least have a map to guide me down the rabbit hole!
 

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Here is a chapter from the 2009 - 2014 Workshop manual on the Seats. Plenty of electrical info, but not really a wiring diagram. This may help you in the Seat arena.

Edit - I have Wiring Diagrams for 2018 model. Let me know if you want to see some of those diagrams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Here is a chapter from the 2009 - 2014 Workshop manual on the Seats. Plenty of electrical info, but not really a wiring diagram. This may help you in the Seat arena.

Edit - I have Wiring Diagrams for 2018 model. Let me know if you want to see some of those diagrams.
Where did you get that? Is the entire manual available to download online?

EDIT: found this "2011 Ford F-150 4WD Workshop Manual" 2011 Ford F-150 4WD Workshop Manual PDF | ServicingManuals

Looks like the heated seats are tied to the "Ignition Relay" pin on this BCM harness... its pouring rain and the truck is stuck outside so I'll take some pics of the wiring and post them later
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