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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Truck is a 2017 F-150 Limited 4x4
Anyone here with a 2nd Gen Eco-boost running Full Race down pipes? I've had mines on for about 1200 miles now and noticed that they leak off to where they seal on the turbo. Disappointing with the amount of labor involved just to get them on.
When tuning my truck the O2 sensors would definitely be skewed due to the leaks, under wot they were normal as the amount of exhaust flow is a lot.

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I just messages with Geoff from FR and he gave me some good advice for mine, I had a similar leak issue this past weekend. Those FR DPs are SUPER snug and tight fitting, I mean damn. Do they SOUND like they leak? Mine LEAKED and I could most definitely hear a very distinct put sound from the turbo area. I hope he doesn't mind, but Ill quote him your assistance...

""Typically i recommend to snug-tighten the passenger side, then snug drivers side. then crank the passenger side tight, then the driver side. It is a good idea to generously apply anti seize to all hardware and mating surfaces also. All the downpipes are cut similarly and verified in fixtures, so i doubt that yours is different but I suppose its not an impossibility. Regardless loosen things up, make sure there is anti seize, and maybe consider using a floor jack to massage the fitment a bit.""

My only advice to you past Geoff's is to make sure you snugged them down enough honestly. When you wrench on the 2 nuts per turbo and think they're tight, you probably have more to go, I dont have a service manual but I wish there were torque specs provided. I've installed downpipes on old 4G63 Mitsubishi's for moons, these F150 pipes were probably on the slightly more challenging side. I noticed my driver side pipe, near the y collector, almost touches the transmission oil pan too.
 

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I just messages with Geoff from FR and he gave me some good advice for mine, I had a similar leak issue this past weekend. Those FR DPs are SUPER snug and tight fitting, I mean damn. Do they SOUND like they leak? Mine LEAKED and I could most definitely hear a very distinct put sound from the turbo area. I hope he doesn't mind, but Ill quote him your assistance...

""Typically i recommend to snug-tighten the passenger side, then snug drivers side. then crank the passenger side tight, then the driver side. It is a good idea to generously apply anti seize to all hardware and mating surfaces also. All the downpipes are cut similarly and verified in fixtures, so i doubt that yours is different but I suppose its not an impossibility. Regardless loosen things up, make sure there is anti seize, and maybe consider using a floor jack to massage the fitment a bit.""

My only advice to you past Geoff's is to make sure you snugged them down enough honestly. When you wrench on the 2 nuts per turbo and think they're tight, you probably have more to go, I dont have a service manual but I wish there were torque specs provided. I've installed downpipes on old 4G63 Mitsubishi's for moons, these F150 pipes were probably on the slightly more challenging side. I noticed my driver side pipe, near the y collector, almost touches the transmission oil pan too.
great info
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just messages with Geoff from FR and he gave me some good advice for mine, I had a similar leak issue this past weekend. Those FR DPs are SUPER snug and tight fitting, I mean damn. Do they SOUND like they leak? Mine LEAKED and I could most definitely hear a very distinct put sound from the turbo area. I hope he doesn't mind, but Ill quote him your assistance...

""Typically i recommend to snug-tighten the passenger side, then snug drivers side. then crank the passenger side tight, then the driver side. It is a good idea to generously apply anti seize to all hardware and mating surfaces also. All the downpipes are cut similarly and verified in fixtures, so i doubt that yours is different but I suppose its not an impossibility. Regardless loosen things up, make sure there is anti seize, and maybe consider using a floor jack to massage the fitment a bit.""

My only advice to you past Geoff's is to make sure you snugged them down enough honestly. When you wrench on the 2 nuts per turbo and think they're tight, you probably have more to go, I dont have a service manual but I wish there were torque specs provided. I've installed downpipes on old 4G63 Mitsubishi's for moons, these F150 pipes were probably on the slightly more challenging side. I noticed my driver side pipe, near the y collector, almost touches the transmission oil pan too.

Thanks for the info, I'll be taking mines apart this weekend as well since I'll be back home for a 3 day weekend. I'm hoping that's the ticking I'm hearing from the passenger side as well. If I log my truck the passenger side is definitely picking up a leak based on O2 readings and the housing / flange is black. My down-pipes are also extremely close to the trans oil pan literally 1/8" gap (kind of scary because it's a plastic pan) and to the trans cross-member. I couldn't get mines to bold to the factory mid-pipe no matter what, we had to cut the flange off the mid pipe, turn it about 40* and re-weld it.
 

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Maybe @full-race geoff will jump in to share some info...

I will not hold my breath.
 

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Talked with Stage 3 today and they say it will work with 2018 3.5 with 10 speed and first they’ve heard of leaks. I am using the SPD turbo adapters so I’m not sure if this matters or not, but I will take advice of using anti seize during installation.
 

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I’m planning on ordering this catted downpipe, but I’m concerned after reading this thread.
You guys will be good dont worry. If I had to do the install all over again I would HIGHLY recommend using a small bottle jack to help push the downpipes on the turbos (credit to FR on the idea). I would also highly recommend using a second guy to help fit the downpipes, the overall install is seriously very simple though. I did the full exhaust install on a Friday after work even. Believe it or not, it took me longer to do the front mount IC install ha
 
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