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I just started having trouble with my IWE's. I did all kinds of research and am convinced that I want to eliminate. I found the Dorman 600-405 and have already ordered these and am curious if anyone else is running deleted and how it is going for them long term and which choice they are using.

4WD Hub Locking Actuator Delete | 600-405 | Independent Wheel End Coupler (Vacuum Delete Kit) | Dorman Products
Thanks for posting this, looks interesting, I have one iwe not disengaging every time. I will definitely keep these in mind. Please keep us posted after you install them.
 

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I’ve only had them for a few months, but they work well.

Ford is now recommending to do a vacuum delete anyway, if you’re out of warranty.


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I hadn‘t seen anything like that from Ford. Where did you read it?
 

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I hadn‘t seen anything like that from Ford. Where did you read it?
I have been told by my friend who is a tech as well as being posted by people (who work at dealerships) I have in Facebook Groups. I don't think there is a actual TSB, but has been a tech support response.
 

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Pull the vacuum lines it's a free delete. Plug the vac lines with a couple screws, that's free too.

Unless you've got plans to go in and do the hubs or CVs it's kind of a waste of time.

Ill likely do them on my truck when I do my gears up front.

I've been running for 6 months or more now with the vac lines pulled no issues.
 
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So, forgive my ignorance, but what is the purpose of the IWE if it can be deleted and still retain full drive gear selection?
 

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So, forgive my ignorance, but what is the purpose of the IWE if it can be deleted and still retain full drive gear selection?
The point of them is to disengage the half shafts from the wheels so the diff isnt turning and thus is less wear on the diff and supposedly better mileage
 
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Does pulling the electrical power from the valve assembly in the engine bay do the same thing as a delete kit or hose disconnect?
 

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Does pulling the electrical power from the valve assembly in the engine bay do the same thing as a delete kit or hose disconnect?
No.
 

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So pulling the lines where they connect to the valve assembly and plugging them is the bestest/easiest way to go?
 

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So pulling the lines where they connect to the valve assembly and plugging them is the bestest/easiest way to go?
I found it easiest to pull the vacuum source from the solenoid that’s right above the brake master cylinder. Then plug it.

I ran with my truck this way for almost a year.


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Discussion Starter #13
I found it easiest to pull the vacuum source from the solenoid that’s right above the brake master cylinder. Then plug it.

I ran with my truck this way for almost a year.


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This will work. But, with mine already having the rubber diaphragm torn it will be introducing water and road salts into the hub assembly. I looked at another delete that was just a splined gear to mate the shaft and hub. But that one didn't have the rubber seal to keep out the junk. It looked pretty much like the hub would be wide open to the elements. I like that this IWE delete also has a grease zerk. I live in the rust belt and road salts do their work to our underbodies.
 

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This will work. But, with mine already having the rubber diaphragm torn it will be introducing water and road salts into the hub assembly. I looked at another delete that was just a splined gear to mate the shaft and hub. But that one didn't have the rubber seal to keep out the junk. It looked pretty much like the hub would be wide open to the elements. I like that this IWE delete also has a grease zerk. I live in the rust belt and road salts do their work to our underbodies.
A 50 cent vacuum cap would solve it.
 

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I found it easiest to pull the vacuum source from the solenoid that’s right above the brake master cylinder. Then plug it.

I ran with my truck this way for almost a year.


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I would try to replace that first, cheap part. That "should" be the failure point. I cant imagine anything inside the hub failing? Lucky(?) for me, now 7 years old and I never had a problem with my 4x4. I exercise it once a year is all.
 

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I would try to replace that first, cheap part. That "should" be the failure point. I cant imagine anything inside the hub failing? Lucky(?) for me, now 7 years old and I never had a problem with my 4x4. I exercise it once a year is all.
Mine failed internally, the vac diapraghm no worky... Moisture inside rotted it out.
 

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Mine failed internally, the vac diapraghm no worky... Moisture inside rotted it out.
Is that the one which is warranted to 150k? behind bumper and below headlight on drivers side... had a hell of a time getting the service techs to find that one.


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Is that the one which is warranted to 150k? behind bumper and below headlight on drivers side... had a hell of a time getting the service techs to find that one.


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No that is the vacuum pump. I'm talking about the IWE hubs.
 

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This is the line you need to cap at the solenoid.

Or the screws in the other ends.

 
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Discussion Starter #20
A 50 cent vacuum cap would solve it.
Yes, I get what you are saying. And I have done that for my short term fix. But, there is still a torn diaphragm with vacuum sucked in junk from the outside world. It is then held there by what is left of the diaphragm. It is too cold out right now to do the complete job. But for the time being I found the hole in the diaphragm and sprayed in storage oil. This will help keep the inside of the hub from rusting up. To me just doing the vacuum line seems too HA. Especially with bearings being inside there.
 
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