[Jaybob1807]

Any of you guys running 10 ply tires, what are the negative effects and how drastic are they? The specific size I am looking at is 285-60-20 fallen wildpeaks. I am coming from 275-65-18's and will be putting on some 20" Fuel Contra wheels. I haul a 5800lbs dry weight camper maybe 7 times a year and a 3500lbs. construction trailer maybe 30 times a year. I am having heck of a time deciding between a 275-60-20 in a 4ply or a 285-60-20 in a 10 ply both in the falken wild peak tire. Any advice appreciated, I am concerned that the negative effects from adding 30lbs at each wheel will be astounding and I will wish I should've gotten something else.
thanks

 

[Sub_Elect]

I have been running 10-plys on my 1/2 tons for years. I have em on my 2013 and would never go back. You will loose about .5 to 1 mpg but they last forever and you won't notice a power loss. I have had em on for 40k and I bet I get another 30k out of them. I run mine at 40 psi when not towing my 5th wheel but run them up to 60 psi when I am pulling it. I would never switch to a lesser ply, personally!

 

[Lghtnfst]

I Love my wildpeaks on my 2011, i've had them a little over a year now. I do have the 285/55/20's which are a 10 ply as well. I did lose some MPG's with these, about 1-1.5 typical driving around town, and performance wise I don't recall a huge difference, but I do remember thinking that I tell they were heavier. I have not towed with them yet, but like mentioned I run mine at about 38-40 psi's

 

[Mr B]

I'm running Michelin Defender LTX M/S 285/60R20 with no problem like above running 38-42 empty and lost 1-2 mpg

 

[Jaybob1807]

So I can expect around a 1.5mpg loss around town and not a big performance loss? One thing I forgot to mention is that I do have bilstein 5100's which I plan to install at the 1.25" setting, not too sure how this will affect performance and mileage. There are formulas out there that suggest every pound of weight you add to the wheels is like adding 7lbs in the bed of your truck. This seems a little extreme from what I have been reading but it has me wondering if I can justify the cons of 10 ply's

 

[Mr B]

So I can expect around a 1.5mpg loss around town and not a big performance loss? One thing I forgot to mention is that I do have bilstein 5100's which I plan to install at the 1.25" setting, not too sure how this will affect performance and mileage. There are formulas out there that suggest every pound of weight you add to the wheels is like adding 7lbs in the bed of your truck. This seems a little extreme from what I have been reading but it has me wondering if I can justify the cons of 10 ply's

Think the pros out does the cons, the most is handling for the amount of towing you do. As far as mpg it's really a non issue When safety is a factor. Also why almost level (1.25") your truck when towing that much? It will also hurt your mpg's some. It will level out your rake with your load or do you want to blind everybody with your headlights by making it more level to begin with. Just asking. I've got my bilstien's one notch up and have plenty of rake left.

 

[Mitchf150]

I run an XL load rated tire in the OEM size (275/55/20). #2600 load rating @ 50 psi and since the rear axle rating is only #4050, I feel I'm doing okay.. I run them at 40 psi empty and 50 when towing and have not noticed any loss in mpg's at all.. Except when towing of course!

Mitch

 

[Jaybob1807]

So I can expect around a 1.5mpg loss around town and not a big performance loss? One thing I forgot to mention is that I do have bilstein 5100's which I plan to install at the 1.25" setting, not too sure how this will affect performance and mileage. There are formulas out there that suggest every pound of weight you add to the wheels is like adding 7lbs in the bed of your truck. This seems a little extreme from what I have been reading but it has me wondering if I can justify the cons of 10 ply's

Think the pros out does the cons, the most is handling for the amount of towing you do. As far as mpg it's really a non issue When safety is a factor. Also why almost level (1.25") your truck when towing that much? It will also hurt your mpg's some. It will level out your rake with your load or do you want to blind everybody with your headlights by making it more level to begin with. Just asking. I've got my bilstien's one notch up and have plenty of rake left.

So you’re saying If I put the bilsteins on the second notch that that the front of the truck will be higher than the back? I wanted just enough clearance for the 285-60-20 tires and 20x9 wheels 12mm backspacing. FWIW I also have a topper and sumo springs in back? I thought the 1.25” lift in front would still leave me a slight rake? Maybe the first notch is the way to go?

 

[Sub_Elect]

I put a 2" level in the front of mine and it was perfectly level. I added a 2" AAL about a year later and I now have the factory rake but all said I get 17+ on the highway and roughly 14.5 in town driving. Like I said, if I had a brand new pickup (2018 or 19) I would do it exactly like my 2013. Pickup is in my signature.

 

[Sub_Elect]

I did not notice any performance loss with the 10 plys or the 2" lift. Probably a total of 1.5 mpg combined loss in fuel economy on my rig.

 

[snakebitten]

I go back and forth between Load E KO2's (on 20") and street-stickies on 22" rims.

Since the Load E's are considerably bigger, they are considerably heavier. And since I have been able to A&B them in comparison a few times, I CAN feel the difference.

The Load E's definitely rob a bit of power from down low "out of the hole".
But ironically, they have less bite than the stickies so they actually are easier to spool, which is emotionally misleading. Lol

Another irony is they ride a little better too.
I suspect that although they are stiffer as a carcass, they still have a lot more sidewall than the sticky low profile softer tire?

But they tow like a dream and I have the added security of being able to ride a logging road or two when out looking for a boondocking spot.

Towing is tough truck stuff. Load E is tough truck rubber. It's the right tool to get the job done.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Burns363R]

on my 20's. The 34" 10 plys road much stiffer than the stock tires. Probably lost 1.5 mpg. I have since dropped to a 33" 6 ply, ride is much better than 10 ply, might have gained .5 mpg back. Im torn between the look of the 34" tire vs 33". But the ride is much stiffer even at 40 psi on the 10ply.

 

[Mr B]

So you’re saying If I put the bilsteins on the second notch that that the front of the truck will be higher than the back? I wanted just enough clearance for the 285-60-20 tires and 20x9 wheels 12mm backspacing. FWIW I also have a topper and sumo springs in back? I thought the 1.25” lift in front would still leave me a slight rake? Maybe the first notch is the way to go?

Didn't know about the springs and topper. I'd measure what you got front and back then add the 1 1/4 " in front and see what you think then decide on what notch to put the 5100's on. The springs should hold it pretty good with load. Not sure about the back spacing for tire clearance, somebody here will know about that with those tires. Wish I could help more. Good luck

 

[Jaybob1807]

hey thanks for the input guys I really appreciate it. Figured what better way to show you guys what my setup looks like than a picture. The trailer as it sits is right at 4500lbs give or take a few hundred lbs. I guess my perfect setup would be slight rake unloaded and level when loaded. My measurements front to back are 3/4" difference with the rear obviously higher (unloaded). What should i do with my suspension to achieve this? I didn't realize how far the front of my truck sticks up loaded until I took this picture. I use a weight distribution hitch with my camper(5800 lbs. dry) and there is maybe 3/4" difference with the front higher than back.

 

[snakebitten]

With that wdh you "should" be getting the front wheel gap very close to what it was unloaded. That's the theory on paper, anyways.

At 4500 and a wdh that truck should be really comfortable from behind the wheel. I'd never say "like it's not even back there" though. That's simply impossible considering the physics involved. But it should be rather undramatic.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[polyol]

I run them, not as smooth riding as OEM, that is for sure lol. Had to get 5100's to deal with the back end wanting to dance around and smooth out the ride. Now it is nice, just on stock shocks the heavy duty tires dont work well...

 

[[email protected]]

Going from the 275/65/18 to the 285/60/20 you are going up in size from a 32.1 to a 33.5 diameter. While not a big step up it will have a very slight effect on fuel mileage. Note the rotations per mile will change accuracy of the speedo/mileage a bit.
Personally I took off my OEM tires due to towing about 7500 lb travel trailer the LTs gave it a much more stable ride. At first I had MIchelin LTX AT2 LT265/70/18 but after a bit over a year ( didn’t care for traction) I swapped to Falken Wildpeak AT3 in LT275/70/18 (33.4 dia). These tires handle so much better both towing as well as off-road and priced better. (Truck is stock with no lift- no clearance issues).
Here is a link to help with tire dia, speed calibration, gear ratio, etc. super easy to use.
https://tiresize.com/converter/

 

[DannoH78]

I have been running 10-plys on my 1/2 tons for years. I have em on my 2013 and would never go back. You will loose about .5 to 1 mpg but they last forever and you won't notice a power loss. I have had em on for 40k and I bet I get another 30k out of them. I run mine at 40 psi when not towing my 5th wheel but run them up to 60 psi when I am pulling it. I would never switch to a lesser ply, personally!

How big of a 5th wheel are you pulling? How does it do? I have a 2017 3.5 eco boost with 10 ply and Firestone Ride Rite. I was just researching what I could safely tow with it.